Comparing lux meters with one host will not reveal the differences, you will have compare them with all sorts of light sources to see what differences there are.
But my luxmeter does only one thing (though very well), Mitko’s device is way more versatile and given that it measures spectra (which is fundamentally different from a normal luxmeter) with the right calibration (!) it will do lux measurements very well too.
(I’d love to have one of those, Mitko, but really can’t justify that for what for me is a hobby)
Twenty years ago I bought, for a lot of money I thought, a small Proxxon band saw. It is mostly plastic but the essential parts were apparently well-made because it helt up for all those years and it has proven immensely useful and time-saving in many little projects.
But for who does not have that luxury: a hack saw should do the job as well.
-insert the driver in the pill and fix it with the retaining ring
-apply thermal paste on the (flat) top of the pill
-screw the pill in the head from above so that the flat top is 1mm above the flat bit inside the head surrounding it
-screw the battery tube in the head, against the pill, screw very tight, which is both fixing the tube and the pil in position
-position the ledboard on top of the pill
-solder the ledwires to the ledboard
-add centering piece, reflector and glass, close the bezel
-hope for perfect focus and centering
Thanks for your reply djozz! Im also from amsterdam
You didnt take of the rim? At this point i want a big mcpcb like 25 mm with a xpl hi on it and put it on the pill without rim. What kind of mcpcb did you use?
I did remove the rim, as described in post #446 above, but did not mention it because the question was about screwing the pil back in. And I used the 26mm board.
I live in the “Indische buurt” btw, in Amsterdam it never gets dark enough to need a flashlight
Well, finally I got the flashlight, put a xml2 noctigon 20 mm, dedomed, and driver blf a6, only gave 156,000 cd to 7 meters, with lg h2 …… I expected a little more …, greetings!
, Had not done bypass in the tail and improve a little the adjustment of the center, now more than 198,000 CD, not bad, I think …
I just modded mine. I went with xpl hi on 26mm maxtoarch board. I put a thin gasket type spacer between the reflector and the mcpcb. The hot spot is still pretty big. Bigger then c8 with xpl hi. What can i do to make the hotspot smaller?
I just tried my hand at one of these today. The host itself seems kinda “meh” but it did seem to have an actual XM-L2 in it and a beefy Omten switch.
My approach was something similar to what L.I. tried: stacking mcpcbs and opening up the reflector to accommodate them. But instead of using two 16mm boards, I stacked a 10mm onto a 16mm and soldered them together. LED is a dedomed newer XP-G2 S4 2B. Driver is a BLF A6 FET+1.
I really need to take it outside and try it. Inside the house it appears slightly tighter than a XP-L HI C8, but certainly not awe inspiring. I might have to fiddle with it some more.
I’m not so sure the 10mm board was a good idea. The lead wires slightly affect the beam.
Lastly, I don’t recommend using a pencil torch such as this for reflowing by applying flame directly under the mcpcb. That solder paste flowed in about 1 second and quickly cooked the top board to boot. Oops.
Nice idea. But I think it protrudes to much into reflector which may result in wider beam. So try to lift reflector a bit by putting tight and larger diameter o ring under reflector upper base or lip.
If you think it is good centered make “1 meter white wall recheck test”. For best lux performance beam should not have donat hole in the middle of the beam at that distance. Since I learned that on mine mistakes Now every Mitko’s thrower go well over 320-340kcd with good old g2s42b.
The led should be further away? I used a spacer that is like 0.5 mm and te beam is pretty wide. Should i put a spacer in there that is like 1 mm? Or remove a part of the reflector…
@djozz i got a crappy wide beam. If i dont use a spacer between reflector and mcpcb the beam is still to wide for what i think it should be. Do you know what i can do? I used an 26mm mcpcb with xpl hi.
@polarweiss, I don’t know what is different in your build, are you sure that the reflector is not prevented to get close enough to the board by some obstruction? And that the led is centered precise enough?
At least in my two builds (Black Flat and dedomed XP-G2), the reflector at less than 0.5mm to the board gave a well focused led.