What did you mod today?

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kiriba-ru
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Richard had 5 or 6 pcs in stock, but I suppose vinte had bought all of them Big Smile
You can try to order such boards from cutter.

Tjhosan
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Ah thank you!

I have been properly blind for not finding those…

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vinte77 wrote:
I had a chance to do a mod today…. Convoy C8 with extension tube, triple xhp50 90 cri, kiriba-ru copper spacer, and mtn 17mm fet driver. I still need to polish up the extension tube more to blend in with the rest of the parts better.


Which extension tube have you bought?

EasyB
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vinte77, that is a compact way to get a whole lot of lumens. Care to comment on the performance?

So the cute-3 can fit the XHP50?

vinte77
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I bought the 32mm tpad triple mcpcb off of mountain and I think when I bought it there wasn’t but a few remaining so it makes sense that there isn’t any left right now.

I bought the extension tube off of fasttech, here’s the link : https://www.fasttech.com/p/1575200 . The extension tube needs some finagling to get it to fit, but I didn’t have to do any modifications to the tube to make it fit. Just greased up the threads and kept screwing the extension tube in and backing it out everytime the tubes got stuck until it fit all the way in. Oh and of course, I stripped the anodizing off to match the rest of the light.

I haven’t had a chance to really test out the light besides doing a function check. But I can say that the light is very very bright. I’ll report back once I get a chance to play with the light more.

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That is nice for sure, seems only thing missing is one of Simons SS bezels

vinte77
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I forgot to add that you have to slice the domes off of the xhp50s to make them fit under the optics.

vinte77
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EasyB wrote:
vinte77, that is a compact way to get a whole lot of lumens. Care to comment on the performance?

So the cute-3 can fit the XHP50?

So I had a chance to play with the light last night. I ran it on 2 vtc6 batteries and it pulled about 20amps. It puts out a nice wall of high cri light with a nice hotspot and a lot of spill. My only issue with the light is that there is a very small faint donut hole in the middle but it’s only noticeable on a whitewall. I ordered flexpro’s MT lens and hopefully that’ll do the trick or if not I might try an unpolished cute-3 instead. The light heats up pretty quickly but it wasn’t too bad but I definitely won’t be running it on high for too long. The heavy copper slug definitely helps with the heatsinking. Unfortunately, I don’t have any other tools to do any other measurements.

Wieselflinkpro
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vinte77 wrote:
I bought the extension tube off of fasttech, here’s the link : https://www.fasttech.com/p/1575200 . The extension tube needs some finagling to get it to fit, but I didn’t have to do any modifications to the tube to make it fit. Just greased up the threads and kept screwing the extension tube in and backing it out everytime the tubes got stuck until it fit all the way in. Oh and of course, I stripped the anodizing off to match the rest of the light.

OK, thanks. Thats what I thought, it will not fit.
I have this extension too, but no C8 for it. This extension fits the old/first Convoy C8, I think.
You used brutal force to fit this tube.
vinte77
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The fitting of the extension tube wasn’t too bad. I’m not sure if I used “brutal” force but it took some effort but not ridiculous strength as I was able to do it by hand with some elbow grease.

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Two mods today! Party

1

Led+reflector swap in my Convoy L6. It had already a resistor mod and bypassed springs. The stock cool XHP70 led was replaced by a XHP70.2 4000K 80CRI (from Mouser, so no exact tint bin), the OP reflector replaced by a smooth reflector.

Before mod current 7.0 A, before mod output 3850 lm.
After mod current 6.45 A, after mod output 4465 lm.

(no idea why the current went down Question )
Measurements were on Liitokala 5000mAh 26650 cells, at 30 seconds, current was measured without tail using a thick copper loop and a clamp meter.

The beam is really ok, the yellow-ish corona of the new Cree leds is only slight, on a white wall not ugly and in real life not noticable. In the middle of the hotspot a small yellow-ish clover shape, again not ugly. The OP reflector would smooth it all out but I like the distinct hotspot that a smooth reflector produces.


(tint looks green, but is not)

will34
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djozz wrote:
… Before mod current 7.0 A, before mod output 3850 lm. After mod current 6.45 A, after mod output 4465 lm.

Nice! Time to mod my L6 it seems Smile

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2

Black Jaxman E2L host, S2+ 18350 tube, BLF-A6 driver (with ‘anti-spike’ fix with extra 5 Ohm resistor), triple Osram Oslon 3rd gen. Square 3000K 92 CRI (from Mouser).

Osram high CRI leds are known to be greenish, but this led, although it is not rosy at all like the Nichia high CRI leds, is very ok. Less yellow than the gen.2 Square 3000K 92 CRI (which I have in a Carclo triple light as well, so a direct comparison), and better blue’s. Very pleasant for who is not into the Nichia rosy.

I did no spring bypasses and used the stock thin ledwires that came with the driver. On an Aspire 18350 battery at 30 seconds, the current on highest setting is 10A and the output 1460 lumen in warm high CRI Smile

The beam is very good, smooth tight spot (tighter than 219C) and no noticable tint shift over the beam (unlike 219C that with the Carclo is slightly yellow in the center of the spot).

Three beams of Carclo triples, left gen.3 Square 3000K 92CRI, right gen.2 Square 3000K 92CRI, top 219C 3500K 92 CRI.

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If some flashlight noob ask you: Why do you need a 2940 lumens flashlight in your pocket?
Answer one: To open my chips. Cool
Answer two: Start camp fire.
Does anybody can find other alternate uses?

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ZozzV6 wrote:
If some flashlight noob ask you: Why do you need a 2940 lumens flashlight in your pocket?
Answer one: To open my chips. Cool
Answer two: Start camp fire.
Does anybody can find other alternate uses?
!{width:70%}http://img2.indafoto.hu/3/9/134029_e227dae7eadb61c0adb17748b381f0a8/2527...!

That’s a cool trick, my friends already call me a geek/mcgyver/Sheldon cooper anyway Big Smile
Oh, an Olight S2 can do that too, I think TIR are really cool fo r that !

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Tool’n around
Driver replacement in a copper tool I gave a buddy last year. Guess that was free lifetime warranty.
Led reflow in a GB Tool Ti. Ordered a Nichia and was sent a Cree. Now it’s a Nichia 219BT 4000K high CRI.
Got a deal too good to pass up on 2 SS Worms but they were Cree. Now one is a Nichia 219BT
Amazon deal on a few (4) GLAREE E03 @ $5ea. Nice lights, Very similar to some Thrunite right down to the driver. Got 2 of these swapped to the 219BT also.
GB has another sale on the SF348 for $3 and just finished that one out with a 219BT also.
Last was the Massdrop Brass E-Sw Tool I get a deal on from 264. Was a Cree and now has 219BT. Actually a nice light and the first AAA Lumintop I’ve had apart that came with a copper MCPCB.

The 219BT were bought on the RMM moving sale and I got a bunch for less than $2ea.
Some of the lights, Top to Bottom
SS Tool still Cree
SS Tool 219BT
Tool Ti 219BT
Brass Tool E-Sw 219BT
Glaree E03 219BT
Copper Worm original Nichia

And Some UV fun. One doesn’t belong…

ZozzV6
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Added thermal paste to my Manker U11 to make it a little better. In stock form it has nothing between pill and body. They are just very close together. And the pill is secured by a retaining ring. It is not the best heat path in stock for a more than 3A current flashlight.

Tjhosan
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X3 wrote:
ZozzV6 wrote:
If some flashlight noob ask you: Why do you need a 2940 lumens flashlight in your pocket? Answer one: To open my chips. Cool Answer two: Start camp fire. Does anybody can find other alternate uses? !{width:70%}http://img2.indafoto.hu/3/9/134029_e227dae7eadb61c0adb17748b381f0a8/2527...!
That’s a cool trick, my friends already call me a geek/mcgyver/Sheldon cooper anyway Big Smile Oh, an Olight S2 can do that too, I think TIR are really cool fo r that !

Reflector lights can do that to!
My Convoy M1 easily does that. But it is running a XHP50.2 at 8A Cool

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Tjhosan wrote:
Reflector lights can do that to!
My Convoy M1 easily does that. But it is running a XHP50.2 at 8A Cool

Nice!
I will build soon a Convoy L6 with XHP70.2 and want to use the stock XHP70 from the L6 in an M1 host with zener modded TA driver and two Aspire 18350 batteries. I think it will heat up fast and can burn some things Big Smile
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Would this be a mod or a “trick”?
I don’t know, but it works Big Smile
- 1 Neodymium magnet (20mm x 3mm) glued with “alpha cyanocrylate” contact glue outside the tailcap of Manker E11 (not fancy or pretty, but effective )
- 5 Neodymium magnet (5mm x 2 mm) attached to the pocket clip, and a heatshrink(ed) tube to make them stay in the place

Flashlight in horizontal position sticked to the fridge…

(The “white” stripe below the clip is luminous tape to find the flashlight in the dark. Not fancy, once again, but works pretty well: just getting some minutes of light before going to sleep, it will be visible till 7/8 hours later!)

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Tricks: 1 / 2 / 3 / 4 / 5 / 6 / 7 / 8 /// TIR Lenses: 1 / 2/// Others: Biscotti 3 + 1*7135 / Triple TIR w/ XP-G2 ///// My Collection ///// My Review's Blog (PT)

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MascaratumB: Me too like the functionality a little bit before look. Thumbs Up

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ZozzV6 wrote:
Added thermal paste to my Manker U11 to make it a little better. In stock form it has nothing between pill and body. They are just very close together. And the pill is secured by a retaining ring. It is not the best heat path in stock for a more than 3A current flashlight.

Did adding the thermal paste help? Does it get hotter faster? Seems it would be better than air.

I’d rather use my flashlight around the house than turn on the lights.

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NeutralFan wrote:
Did adding the thermal paste help? Does it get hotter faster? Seems it would be better than air.

I did’n t measured before and after but it feels to get hotter faster with hand.
If somebody will do this also please measure temperature with time on the side fins before and after the thermal paste.
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ZozzV6 wrote:
NeutralFan wrote:
Did adding the thermal paste help? Does it get hotter faster? Seems it would be better than air.

I did’n t measured before and after but it feels to get hotter faster with hand.

That’s good, means it’s working Smile
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Fixed the optics position in my S42.

The light will never be any good because of the messed up user interface, but the extremely out of focus optic certainly challenges the UI in things done wrong in this light, I have rarely seen an uglier beam profile.

The focus problem is because the optic rests on two small opposite ridges on the inside of the head that are too high up. Because removing plastic is easier than removing aluminium, I filed a bit off the optic on both sides to make it sit deeper, closer to the leds. I broke off one of the legs of the optic in the process, but in the end the light closed up fine.

Because the optic now falls inside the head, to make the glass lens still clamp the optic in position, I added a paperclip ring on top of the optic (a silicon o-ring did not work, it twisted out of position when closing the bezel)

The paperclip does not spoil the looks of the flashlight.

And the beam is as it should be.

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Nice job djozz! I like your ingenuity of using a paper clip and it looks good in the flashlight.

I’d rather use my flashlight around the house than turn on the lights.

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@djozz
Do you think a copper plate between shelf and MCP could do the trick to get the LEDs in the right focus position?

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djozz wrote:
Fixed the optics position in my S42.

The light will never be any good because of the messed up user interface, but the extremely out of focus optic certainly challenges the UI in things done wrong in this light, I have rarely seen an uglier beam profile.

The focus problem is because the optic rests on two small opposite ridges on the inside of the head that are too high up. Because removing plastic is easier than removing aluminium, I filed a bit off the optic on both sides to make it sit deeper, closer to the leds. I broke off one of the legs of the optic in the process, but in the end the light closed up fine.

Because the optic now falls inside the head, to make the glass lens still clamp the optic in position, I added a paperclip ring on top of the optic (a silicon o-ring did not work, it twisted out of position when closing the bezel)

The paperclip does not spoil the looks of the flashlight.

And the beam is as it should be.
!{width:70%}https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4292/35756001882_30ef5f28fe_b.jpg!

thanks this was my first TIR light and I thought the Beam is OK
I did glue the paperclip only on 2 sides where the optics is filed down because otherwise it blocked light from the TIR

after I modded the TIR I could see it does throw better and beam looks better overall
if you need a driver how about a TA one I can make you one with Narsil just for material costs, the light is great with Narsil

djozz
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joechina wrote:
@djozz
Do you think a copper plate between shelf and MCP could do the trick to get the LEDs in the right focus position?

Yes, that is thw other way around to get leds and optic closer together, someone posted already that he had done that succesfully. I will look that post up.
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Lexel wrote:

thanks this was my first TIR light and I thought the Beam is OK
I did glue the paperclip only on 2 sides where the optics is filed down because otherwise it blocked light from the TIR

after I modded the TIR I could see it does throw better and beam looks better overall
if you need a driver how about a TA one I can make you one with Narsil just for material costs, the light is great with Narsil


Good that it worked!

About a new driver: I’m not sure that can be done while saving the internal charging function? I don’t think that could accept to have a flashlight with a charging hole that is there doing nothing (and fancy aftermarket cover for that emty hole Party )

(back in the days when I wanted a flashlight for actually using it, a random hole in it would be perfectly acceptable, but that was a looooong time ago, I aim for at least perfection now, and of course never get there)

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