[Ended]Groupbuy : Utorch UT01 (XP-L , AA & 14500 battery , e-switch etc)

giorgoskok · January 19, 2017, 8:14am

I have only lost 1 package from gearbest from quite a lot untracked orders . Shipping without tracking isn’t actually slower . Only in Christmas there was a bit of delay…

giorgoskok · January 21, 2017, 12:43pm

Flash deal , UT01 16.99$

MAD_TM26 · January 21, 2017, 2:02pm

Thanks for the heads up. :+1:

Freedom · January 21, 2017, 2:30pm

Thanks, George.

I can imagine a good number of export house employees delaying or cutting short their Chinese new year celebrations to get product out the door after yesterday’s speech and their own country’s warnings to prepare for the worst.

ikkentobi · January 21, 2017, 3:11pm

Got my NW unit yesterday. No issues with the switch or otherwise. I love this little light, especially the UI.

Threadneedle · January 21, 2017, 3:14pm

Thanks, man. I used to GB credit from the refund of the faulty one to buy this one.

Streamer · January 21, 2017, 4:51pm

Order placed for a NW. Great Price ! Thanks for the link today giorgoskok !!

Gotta love side switched AA lights !

Dwantink · January 23, 2017, 3:27am

Mine finally arrived yesterday, works but seems to be the same brightness no matter what kind of battery I use. Also the pocket clip kind of sucks. Other than that, nice little light.

Threadneedle · January 27, 2017, 2:42pm

That’s really odd. Did you manage to fix that issue?

Threadneedle · January 27, 2017, 3:40pm

T18:

Kindle:

It happens to the best of us.

It’ll be interesting to see what the truth is behind the Manker/UTorch story. Given Manker’s reaction, and the difference in body tubes I think it is more likely that any ‘funny business’ was on the part of whoever was contracted to manufacture the head units than Manker itself.

I am hopeful your the only one who caught that before I came back to get rid of it, and if others read that post, Please accept my most sincere apology, I should have taken that issue to that person and handled it that way, just might still if it doesn’t stop, post like the one I posted sure don’t help anything and just greats more garbage and issues and I know better… But thx again Kindle very kind of you…!

So lets talk witches or switches, alright here’s a thought, what if a company just had a bunch of left over stuff, like springs, lens, Switches, and decided to have an auction and all the smart OEM guys AND gals showed up and bought say 5000 of each…??
Well what would you do with them next…? No conspiracy there, I hope… ha ha

Anyhow, I’ve taken my CW light apart because I was getting intermittent failures with that lights switch, even though I had just been messing around with my preferred tint the NW for days and doing massive amounts of switch pushing while fooling around with those very cool hidden output modes so wanted to change the modes in the CW also and that is when I noticed that when I needed to do a one click to lock a mode it would not lock the mode due to no click and I did not have one issue with the NW while setting the hidden outputs and that was a lot of clicks, no issues at all until I pulled out the CW.

I took a few pics to show what I think the issue is, and I will only be addressing my lights switch issue,
But if you follow this idea the simplest way to know for sure if your having a switch failure would be to directly switch modes without the switch boot on and clicking modes directly.

It’s really easy to remove that boot and could be done without any tools even, you could use a small flat head screw driver but could also easily poke a hole through this soft silicone boot.
It’s also easily replacable, at least on mine, and even with the retainer ring still in place.

I removed the switch boot simply by gently pulling the boot back to one side so I could see the bottom part of the boot, the hat brim part that secures the boot under the retainer, and I saw how much room there was so I just held it in place with one finger pulling back and used my other finger to sort of pull the boot enough to get a hold of it and just gently pulled it out, simple.
The retainer is pressed in and pressed in tight, might even have a dap of glue but not much on mine, cleaned it all off, then I took a few pics of how I to get to that switch pad and see if your switch is bad for real or not.

In the picture you’ll see that the switch button pad is offset to one side, and these boots are very soft material, the center nub is really IMO to soft also,
Look at how they have formed the solid ledge around where the switch boot nub is supposed to contact the pad, with the switch off to one side like this the nub from the boot nub can get hung up on that ledge, that explained to me why I could sort of push down and upwards at the same time and get it to change modes easier than what is just a normal switch push.

All of this should be fairly simple to straighten out, maybe using a clear L6 switch small one or the ThorFire S70 clear side switch boot,
I’m not sure how to recenter the switch quit yet, but working on it,
I hate to admit this but I can’t get the reflector out, not sure if screwed in or glued in, but it doesn’t seem normal and don’t want to mess it up.

So here a few pics and if you do take a small blunt object and click through your switch modes directly on the switch pad, with no boot installed, and then it still won’t change modes, well that’s a for sure bad switch of course since everything that it could get hung up on is out of the way now, just want to help out because I really do like these lights,

George did a great job on putting these GB’s together and the price for these were super fantastic, so it does make me sad to see so much worry about this or that with the lights, it doesn’t matter at all to me who made them or what parts as long as it is as it is, I am happy, it works, it’s was very cheap and it’s a nice looking light,
“Pics of switch”:

Hi T18, the reflector is simply screwed on.

I’ve been following your pictures and text and I’m getting a tad lost. My UT01 has a switch which is also ever so slight off-centre to the right, just like yours. I’m trying to dismantle it but having very little luck. I cant see to get the driver out, nor from the mcpcb led side. Also, now that I’ve out it back together, I have to leave it screwed on slightly loose or the light won’t work - most odd.

Did you have any more luck getting inside your light?

Streamer · January 27, 2017, 3:52pm

I don’t have the UT01 in hand yet, but from what I have read you are supposed to be able to rotate the switch pad button left or right with tweezers etc. to center it. Then reinstall boot. At least that’s the way I understand it to be.

Let us know if that be the case.

Threadneedle · January 27, 2017, 3:58pm

Hm, that’s what I understood but neither the boot (the boot being the silver ring?) or the button on the board are budging…and I’m not being too gentle either. I’m probably doing this wrong. I’ll keep on at it.

MAD_TM26 · January 28, 2017, 12:15pm

Threadneedle,

You need to remove the battery tube before centering the switch or unscrew the tube a bit.

Jerommel · January 28, 2017, 12:27pm

I would say the clip TOTALLY sucks.

evankouros · January 28, 2017, 10:34pm

I’ve noticed the same: Review : Utorch UT01 Flashlight (XP-L V6 / AA & 14500 / e-switch) - #112 by evankouros

Streamer · January 29, 2017, 12:09am

I had the same problem you mention but in the Klarus Mi7. Lithium batteries were no brighter than NIMH or AA primaries. Turned out to be a defective driver. Klarus USA sent me a replacement head…then there was brightness.

Your UT01 may have a defective driver.

Threadneedle · February 18, 2017, 9:20am

So I received the replacement…it’s the wrong tint. :person_facepalming:

scs · April 27, 2017, 7:25pm

With these output for reference, does anyone know what would be the approximate corresponding output with a Nichia 219C hi CRI swapped in, using a regular Eneloop.

ZozzV6 · July 16, 2017, 10:40am

I got mine two days ago. The switch is clicking but half of the clicks do nothing. Removed the boot and pressed the switch with a plastic something and it was also not responding for every click so I have a bad switch. :cry: The switch was well centered in the hole.
I try to contact with Gearbest.

Deputydave · July 16, 2017, 3:40pm

Hey folks, I had started a thread on the UT01 problem before I found this one. That thread is here:

Thread

Take a look at post #18 where ‘so far’ I have found a simple fix that is working. I can’t attest to it being a long term solution yet as I’ll have to use/carry it for a while. But I offer it here in case it helps someone else. It may or may not be the fix for your light, but maybe it will turn someone’s frown upside down