" With the new carrier design I think the best option would be to make an indention in the tailcap to preventthe button top of the carrier from being able to contact the tailcap even if it was inserted backwards. There should be plenty of room and would be a simple fix. "
- Yes, that would be very good!!
-TECH QUESTIONS (sorry, I'm not up to date with all Final Specs)
1- Is the final LED emitter, Cool White or Neutral White?
2- Can the GT use Unprotected batteries? (I have many unprotected, but almost none "protected"... hence my question)
3- If yes, can I use Unprotected in one carrier, and Protected in the other carrier?
4- Can the GT use for instance 4 batteries of 3500mAh in one carrier and 4 batteries of 2700mAh in the other?
BTW, Thanks a lot for your pictures and very detailed report. MUCH APPRECIATED!! It looks AWESOME to me :)
1: The emitter has always been neutral white, we are just not sure exactly what flavor of neutral white it will be yet. There is apperantly a shortage of neutral white xhp35 HI’s right now.
2: You can use the flat top cells if you solder blob them or if you remove the protection pcb.
3: The official recommendation is 8 matching batteries but unofficially as long as the 4 cells in each carrier match, you will be ok. I have tested this myself with 30q’s and cheap laptop cells in each carrier.
4: Ditto the last answer, officially not recommended but unofficially and electrically you will be ok since the GT uses so little power. It is simply a matter of liability, too much risk in officially suntanning the mixing of cells.
So I have to say, the above advise is in no way connected to the offical GT team, GB or lumintop nor do I provide any garanties. This is based on electrical engineering 101 and personal testing only.
Can I be lazy guys and some one tell me whether both group buys are over, so that I dont have to go back and read through the whole thread? Kinda interested in the light but can’t spend too much money at the moment. Thanks in advance!
I feel your pain, taking Lux readings outside the calculated throw actually goes down as I move further back instead of going up like it should the humidity can be so bad. I usually get the highest readings around 5m, which is much less then should be ideal for a light this size.
I have a water tower I spotted recently that should technically be in range of the gt (about 1 mile) but I kinda doubt that it will reach that far with the humidity and light pollution.
The pics into that reflector are almost hypnotic, am i becoming a flas-a-holic ?
I thought a reflector was in a grinding machine before polish, i know a CNC lathe can do a okay surface, but its nothing compared to the surface tolerances i far surpassed on my grinding machine.
setting off on a new batch with the stone fresh sharpened, my grindings was slicker than snot on a door knob.
BUT ! i have no idea if you can grind on ALU as you can on tempered steel or raw steel / stainless, but i figure its just a matter of using the right stone for the job.
Some times i worked on some large axles that had gotten a layer of crome, and that shi, stuff was a pain to work on, i have no idea why they dident get those axles sprayed with some proper steel, figure it was cornor-cutting saving money , which i hate as its so noob and anyone can do it.
And besides a CNC lathe could fab up a new axle much faster than i could redo the tolerances on my grinding machine, especially as this was raw steel axles only needing a few grinds where rubber seals was seating.
Dont get it :person_facepalming: some times its like stupid run things.
Are the springs on the same PCB as the Bat+ contacts? And the bars are on the outer PCB too? That would mean by removing the protection PCB, the battery carryer wouldn’t shrink and it would be verry easy to remove it.
Is it right so?