Thanks! This one will be fixed to a printing press. Often clear coatings must be applied to the labels which is difficult for the press operators to see and register to the images. A small amount of optical brightener is added to the coatings formulation (usually less than 0.5%) allowing it to glow when viewed under UV. This lamp will be an upgrade over the fluorescent blacklight lamps that we’ve used in past. Those tube lamps don’t produce enough UV to make some colors of optical brighteners to fluoresce.
The bandpass filter would be a nice addition. I looked at filters briefly a few weeks ago, but wasn’t able to find one with the correct dimensions or one that wasn’t outrageously expensive. Maybe there’s a ZWB2 film that can be applied to the glass window? I haven’t looked into that yet.
If this lamp does works well, I’ll have to assemble several more. Next time I can mix it up with the SST-10 LED’s and do a comparison. I’ve been wanting to play with the Luminus UV emitters since they starting releasing these less expensive variants.
Good tip Firelight2. I’ve noticed with some of my bypasses that the solder has worn and has flat spots, but not too much to be concerned. If anything, the flat spots seem to help with conductivity. But I suppose at some point, the solder will eventually wear away too much, and then it will start to wear against the bypass wire or the spring.
I reworked the Olight TC-10 Ti spare battery case again today. It's been a few different versions, MT-G2, XM-L2
Now it is XP-L2 HD V4 3C 5000K 80CRI.
I filed out the tube to take a 16340 cell and enlarged the bezel hole for a reflector. I used a pill module from an OTR M3 with lighted switch this time, 2000k resistor feed for the green electronic switch LED. Still turns red when the LVP warning kicks in.
DTP 20mm KD MCPCB, magnetic tail with copper and lockout function. Around 730lm on turbo.
Made my first 3D printed lens cap. I want to make for every flashlight of mine above 35mm head diameter.
First I made one for my Emisar D1 because it is small and I not wasting too much filament with setups. I made 4 rings of the top 3mm to test fitment and then made the final product.
I think I will try to make diffuser for my Q8 but I need to use it with low power not to melt it.
Yesterday afternoon I tinkered with my Q8.
Made some changes to the light to allow the use of 4 20mm SinkPAD mcpcbs and on these I re-flowed 4 Luminus SST-40’s. With 4 x 22ga ground leads and a single 18ga positive, the light makes 11,247 lumens at maximum, on 4 Sony VTC5A’s with copper button tops. Was quite a bit of fine tuning, including opening up the emitter opening in the 4 reflector cups. Lowest mode is just under 5 lumens, so it works pretty good for my purpose. I have TK’s latest Anduril with flickering candlelight and lightning displays. Gotta tell ya, lightning bursts from this power level are very impressive!
Through a paper yes but with pointing the light to something no. Even from 1cm it shows full green spot. Maybe if I made big difference in thickness of the letters and the area around them.
Now I made one for the BLF Q8 too.
It making the tint so so warm. I will design a diffuser to it.
It’d be really sweet on my Dad’s virtually stock Q8 (birthday present next week) but my own I’d have to be super careful not to melt it.
Very very cool, great work!
Edit: That warming of the tint would be Awesome with TK’s candlelight mode in Anduril. Might have to see if someone can make me one, the candlelight flickering alone is worth the effort I think.
The shipping cost I think about 6-7$. I can share the cad files with you and I think it is cheaper to print it with somebody in the US. But I can ship if you can’t find anybody to make it. Just need to calculate some acceptable price