Doubts! Aim: start 2 mods! Convoy S2+ triple & Sofirn SF10

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MascaratumB
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Doubts! Aim: start 2 mods! Convoy S2+ triple & Sofirn SF10

Hi BLF!

I have some doubts about components, and other things, to engage at least 2 mods. If you can help me on these, please let me know Wink

1st mode – Sofirn SF10

I wanna turn my Sofirn SF10 in a different light, mainly due to its driver (H-M-L-ML + Strobe) and PWM it has.

It uses a XP-G2 R5 NW LED, and I wanted to keep it that way!

The main mod I wanted to do – so far – was to use a Biscotti driver 8*7135 in it. My concerns are:
a) the use of that biscotti driver with the XPG2 Led – will it damage the LED ?
b) the use of biscotti + XPG2 with a 14500 battery – will the battery get over drained and eventually not work correctly?

Any leads on this would be helpful! Thanks in advance Wink

___________________________________________________________________________

*2nd mode – Convoy S2 triple*+

I want to make my first triple light and need some suggestions about components, or at least some guidance on which to choose!

I want a light that can hold on High for a while without getting extremely hot, obviously floody, but if possible with some throw (despite triples are floody…), and with Neutral White tint.

Therefore, I’ve made some search and found some components. Considering the above mentioned specs I want, please help me to chose the best to match those requirements. If you have other suggestions, let me know please!!

These are the defined aspects, so far:
a) Host: Convoy S2+
b) Driver: FET + 7135 Driver – 17mm – MTN-17DDm (with Crescendo) http://www.mtnelectronics.com/index.php?route=product/product&product_id...

NOTE – One doubt about this driver: will it work with forward switch?

From now on, I’m all doubts, so I appreciate some help on these options, or others that you can have.

PILL / SPACER :

1) Copper Triple Spacer for Convoy S2+ Hosts – XP-L / XP-G2 / Nichia 219 –
http://www.mtnelectronics.com/index.php?route=product/product&product_id...
2) Copper spacer for Carclo triple Convoy S2+ – (http://budgetlightforum.com/node/45343)
3) Copper pill triple Convoy S2+ – (http://budgetlightforum.com/node/45343)

EMITTER :

1) CREE XP-G2 S4 3Dhttp://www.mtnelectronics.com/index.php?route=product/product&path=60_62...
2) CREE XP-G2 S4 3D LEDhttp://intl-outdoor.com/noctigon-3xp-mcpcb-cree-xpg2-s4-3d-leds-p-848.html
3) Nichia NVSL219C D240 4000K 90+ CRIhttp://www.mtnelectronics.com/index.php?route=product/product&path=60_94...
4) Nichia NVSL219C D280 5000K 80+ CRIhttp://www.mtnelectronics.com/index.php?route=product/product&path=60_94...
5) NICHIA NVSW219BT-V1 R9050 D220http://intl-outdoor.com/noctigon-3xp-mcpcb-nichia-nvsw219btv1-r9050-d220...
6) NICHIA NVSW219CT R8000 D260http://intl-outdoor.com/noctigon-3xp-mcpcb-nichia-nvsw219ct-r8000-d260-p...
7) Triple LED lamps with MCPCB for E2Lhttps://www.aliexpress.com/item/Triple-LED-lamps-with-MCPCB-for-E2L-flas...
8) Triple Cree XP-G2 4500Khttps://www.aliexpress.com/item/Triple-Cree-XP-G2-White-6500K-Neutral-Wh...

OPTICS :

1) 10507 Carclo Lenshttp://www.mtnelectronics.com/index.php?route=product/product&path=68_69...
2) 10511 Carclo Lenshttp://www.mtnelectronics.com/index.php?route=product/product&path=68_69...
3) CARCLO 10507http://intl-outdoor.com/carclo-10507-triple-led-optic-lens-p-836.html
4) 3-in-1 20mm Optical Lenshttps://www.aliexpress.com/item/3-in-1-20mm-Optical-Lens-1-Piece/3268585...
5) Optic Lens for E2Lhttps://www.aliexpress.com/item/Optic-Lens-for-E2L-flashlights-triple-TI...

These are the things I found that I can be using to the mod. Please help me on this to make a nice “combo” and to get a nice triple flashlight!

Thanks in advance for your help!! Thumbs Up

DB Custom said: "Hide your billfold, cut up your credit cards... you're a perfect candidate for full blown flashaholism and will soon need dedicated flashlight cabinets. [...] Have fun! Modding is next... :P" 

Reviews : Amutorch S3 - XPG3-S3 /  AM S3 vs Neal 219c  /  Amutorch AM30 - XHP70.2 / Nitefox UT20 / Sofirn SF14 & SP10A 

Mods and tricks: 1 / 2 / 3 / 4 / 5                                                                    Convoy S2+ TIR Lenses on: XML2 / XPL-HI

 

MascaratumB
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I’m now in conditions to answer to my first questions! LOL

Biscotti 8×7135 + XPG2 R5 = unsoldering LED!
I used it on max for a while and the led unsoldered. Opted to use a XML2 T6-3B instead!

About the recommendations for the Convoy S2+ triple, if someone has them, please let me know Wink Thanks!!

DB Custom said: "Hide your billfold, cut up your credit cards... you're a perfect candidate for full blown flashaholism and will soon need dedicated flashlight cabinets. [...] Have fun! Modding is next... :P" 

Reviews : Amutorch S3 - XPG3-S3 /  AM S3 vs Neal 219c  /  Amutorch AM30 - XHP70.2 / Nitefox UT20 / Sofirn SF14 & SP10A 

Mods and tricks: 1 / 2 / 3 / 4 / 5                                                                    Convoy S2+ TIR Lenses on: XML2 / XPL-HI

 

kiriba-ru
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3A is regular current for many convoy lights. It shouldnt leads to led unsoldering. What pcb did you use?

Meanwhile in Russia: https://twitter.com/CrazyinRussia

vwpieces
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MascaratumB wrote:
I’m now in conditions to answer to my first questions! LOL

Biscotti 8×7135 + XPG2 R5 = unsoldering LED!
I used it on max for a while and the led unsoldered. Opted to use a XML2 T6-3B instead!

Should not have happened. Did the wires unsolder or the LED from pad?
Pics?

MascaratumB
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Hum, this is the plate. After it unsoldered, I put the LED back in place, put the soldering iron below it and it resoldered. (the brown marks on the PCB are due to that I guess, can’t remember if they were there before…)
The wires did not unsolder though!

I don’t know what happened! I put the output at max, it started flickering, after some seconds it stopped working and I saw the LED inside the reflector space…

Anyway, I won’t mess with this anymore. Can’t say if the led is working correctly, maybe I’ll try it in a next mod just to check.

Thanks for the answers!!

DB Custom said: "Hide your billfold, cut up your credit cards... you're a perfect candidate for full blown flashaholism and will soon need dedicated flashlight cabinets. [...] Have fun! Modding is next... :P" 

Reviews : Amutorch S3 - XPG3-S3 /  AM S3 vs Neal 219c  /  Amutorch AM30 - XHP70.2 / Nitefox UT20 / Sofirn SF14 & SP10A 

Mods and tricks: 1 / 2 / 3 / 4 / 5                                                                    Convoy S2+ TIR Lenses on: XML2 / XPL-HI

 

kiriba-ru
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This is bad pcb, you have to replace it with noctigon.

Meanwhile in Russia: https://twitter.com/CrazyinRussia

MascaratumB
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kiriba-ru wrote:
This is bad pcb, you have to replace it with noctigon.

Yeah, I guess I’ll have to do that! Facepalm
I was using Sofirn SF10 original LED and PCB, as I wanted to maintain the original. Now I know it didn’t work…
Now I’m using a XML2 T6-3B from Convoy (direct from Simon), and have no problem so far.

BTW, kiriba-ru, and thinking about the other mod I want to do (Convoy S2+ triple), do you still have the pills or spacer for the S2+?
Which one do you advise to use? The pill seems to give me more confidence in terms of structure, but is it better for heat transfer?

Thanks in advance Thumbs Up

DB Custom said: "Hide your billfold, cut up your credit cards... you're a perfect candidate for full blown flashaholism and will soon need dedicated flashlight cabinets. [...] Have fun! Modding is next... :P" 

Reviews : Amutorch S3 - XPG3-S3 /  AM S3 vs Neal 219c  /  Amutorch AM30 - XHP70.2 / Nitefox UT20 / Sofirn SF14 & SP10A 

Mods and tricks: 1 / 2 / 3 / 4 / 5                                                                    Convoy S2+ TIR Lenses on: XML2 / XPL-HI

 

kiriba-ru
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S2+ or other same size host can spread 5W of heat continiously. I think stock brass pill can transfer this amount of power with ease.
All mods, like pills or spacers, can transfer times more power. But you wont recognize this with 5W host abilities. So the only improvement you will feel – bigger spacer mass = longer turbo runtime (till you wont be able to hold it in your hands).

Meanwhile in Russia: https://twitter.com/CrazyinRussia

Persechini
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So, I have just an S2+ triple not too different from what you want, here are my considerations:

Switch
No reason for a forward clicky not to work, you will only have to mod the rubber tailcap. Cut the little notch to compensate for the added hight and you are good to go (much like the SF14)

Driver
The mtn-electronics Fet+1 driver is great, the astrolux one gets the job done, but it’s not close in quality (bought 3, 1 failed, 1 other was very sensitive to how I screwed it on my C8). The thing with mtn is that international shipping is expensive

Firmware
Isn’t crescendo made for e-switch lights? I don’t know if it will work with a clicky switch

Spacer
I wish I was able to buy the specialized triple pill. The spacer works ok, but it makes the assemblage annoying to manipulate. Don’t forget the thermal paste.

MCPCB
For the triple it will have to be copper with DTP, but you will probably buy the emitters already in a noctigon, so no worries. I have also desoldered a test setup with a FET+aluminium MCPCB. But it is weird that the 2.8A of the biscotti driver managed to do this as the previous Convoy drivers where 3.04 amps and were paired with aluminium MCPCBs.

Emitter
I particularly love the 219C in 4000k and 5000k (I like the 5000k tint more, but it wasn’t available in 90+ CRI at the time). I imagine, if you want to maximize throw, that xp-g2 or xp-l HI will be the more logic route, and if the D4 thread can be used as reference, both will take a little longer to heat up than the nichia. The Jaxman LG triple has been reviewed on another thread, and the tint was not considered great

Optics
Don’t know about the optics, if a narrower one will have the effect you want if not combined with a throwier emitter, you are the TIR optics reviewer man!

Considerations
Regardless of the setup, on a FET driver on turbo it will get hot quick, you can setup the thermal regulation on bistro, but the S2+ just isn’t to good to handle that much heat, it will dim a lot once the thermal regulation kicks in. My setup has a spring bypass on both springs, so if you don’t do that it might run cooler (or if you use a battery that doesn’t go all the way to 10 amps or higher). Or you just leave it as is and only use turbo for short periods, 1.5 amps or even lower will still give you a very usable amount of light

In my Tree

My collectionConvoy: C8 Clear / S2+ Clear / S2+ / S2+ UV / S6 ― Nitecore: Tube / Thumb / Concept 1 / HC30 / Tip ― Trustfire: Z2 ― Sofirn: SF10 / SF12

Persechini
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As for the biscotti + SF10, I almost did this. Nothing wrong comes to mind other than the reduced run time and loss of AA compatibility. I didn’t to it because I’m preferring to keep my smaller lights as AA, and stop using 14500s

In my Tree

My collectionConvoy: C8 Clear / S2+ Clear / S2+ / S2+ UV / S6 ― Nitecore: Tube / Thumb / Concept 1 / HC30 / Tip ― Trustfire: Z2 ― Sofirn: SF10 / SF12

MascaratumB
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kiriba-ru wrote:
S2+ or other same size host can spread 5W of heat continiously. I think stock brass pill can transfer this amount of power with ease. All mods, like pills or spacers, can transfer times more power. But you wont recognize this with 5W host abilities. So the only improvement you will feel – bigger spacer mass = longer turbo runtime (till you wont be able to hold it in your hands).

Thanks for the answer Smile I am in doubt about what to get, I’ll decide meanwhile Wink

DB Custom said: "Hide your billfold, cut up your credit cards... you're a perfect candidate for full blown flashaholism and will soon need dedicated flashlight cabinets. [...] Have fun! Modding is next... :P" 

Reviews : Amutorch S3 - XPG3-S3 /  AM S3 vs Neal 219c  /  Amutorch AM30 - XHP70.2 / Nitefox UT20 / Sofirn SF14 & SP10A 

Mods and tricks: 1 / 2 / 3 / 4 / 5                                                                    Convoy S2+ TIR Lenses on: XML2 / XPL-HI

 

Flashy Mike
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Your sure want a forward clicky? Stock S2+ has reverse clicky.
It’s a pain to use a forward clicky with reverse clicky firmware.

KD has this beautiful Nichia 4000K CRI92 LEDs:
http://www.kaidomain.com/p/S026299.Nichia-NVSL219C-R9050-D240-4000k-CRI9...

I use them in S2+ triple and Emisar D4. They have the best tint of all my lights. But you have to reflow them by yourself to intl-outdoor DTP MCPCBs – KD alsos sells them on triple boards but the boards are crap.
Btw: it is cheaper to buy the triple boards and take their LEDs than buying single LEDs.

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First of all, thanks for taking the time to write Persechini Wink

Persechini wrote:
Switch No reason for a forward clicky not to work, you will only have to mod the rubber tailcap. Cut the little notch to compensate for the added hight and you are good to go (much like the SF14)

My question about the forward switch was more about its possible interaction with the driver, but I guess it doesn’t matter much after all! Yup, I’ve been playing with the rubber caps and a forward switch I recently got, to see what I can do! I guess I’ll have to get a taller rubber cap to make it fit well!

Persechini wrote:
Driver
The mtn-electronics Fet+1 driver is great, the astrolux one gets the job done, but it’s not close in quality (bought 3, 1 failed, 1 other was very sensitive to how I screwed it on my C8). The thing with mtn is that international shipping is expensive

Firmware
Isn’t crescendo made for e-switch lights? I don’t know if it will work with a clicky switch

Yeah, shipping may be a bit expensive, and I want to buy some things from them… Facepalm Guess it will be my X-Mas gift for me…

But, I’ve been looking at this driver for a while, with Crescendo and it seems to be what I want. For what I’ve read here and in other posts, it seems to be used in clicky drivers, unless I’m not understanding it correctly Flat Stare

Persechini wrote:
Spacer I wish I was able to buy the specialized triple pill. The spacer works ok, but it makes the assemblage annoying to manipulate. Don’t forget the thermal paste.

Yeah, that’s the reason why I have doubts, the assemblage of it! I guess I’ll opt for a triple pill, instead of a spaced, as my skills for soldering and assemblage are not the best…

Persechini wrote:
MCPCB
For the triple it will have to be copper with DTP, but you will probably buy the emitters already in a noctigon, so no worries. I have also desoldered a test setup with a FET+aluminium MCPCB. But it is weird that the 2.8A of the biscotti driver managed to do this as the previous Convoy drivers where 3.04 amps and were paired with aluminium MCPCBs.

Emitter
I particularly love the 219C in 4000k and 5000k (I like the 5000k tint more, but it wasn’t available in 90+ CRI at the time). I imagine, if you want to maximize throw, that xp-g2 or xp-l HI will be the more logic route, and if the D4 thread can be used as reference, both will take a little longer to heat up than the nichia. The Jaxman LG triple has been reviewed on another thread, and the tint was not considered great

I’ve been reading the D4 thread and that’s the reason why I am asking. The XPL-HI are more expensive that Nichias and XP-G2, so I don’t know if I’ll go for them… I wanted something within those temperatures, so I’ll probably get one XP-G2 near to what I have in my Emisar D4 (S4 3D), or a bit warmer. Intl-Outdoor or MTN electronics seem to be the best place for those, with Noctigon MCPCB.

Yup, today I remembered that those from Jaxman do not have the best reviews so far. Thanks for the heads-up!!

Persechini wrote:
Optics Don’t know about the optics, if a narrower one will have the effect you want if not combined with a throwier emitter, you are the TIR optics reviewer man!

Ahaha, TIR lenses for 1 emitter I have some, but not multiple emitters Wink Hum, but maybe you’re right, I didn’t thought about that combination of “throwy LEDs” and optics… Maybe I’ll opt for a frosted, instead. Or maybe I get both and then decide what to use! Fortunately optics are not that expensive as LEDs Big Smile

Persechini wrote:
Considerations Regardless of the setup, on a FET driver on turbo it will get hot quick, you can setup the thermal regulation on bistro, but the S2+ just isn’t to good to handle that much heat, it will dim a lot once the thermal regulation kicks in. My setup has a spring bypass on both springs, so if you don’t do that it might run cooler (or if you use a battery that doesn’t go all the way to 10 amps or higher). Or you just leave it as is and only use turbo for short periods, 1.5 amps or even lower will still give you a very usable amount of light

Right! Wink I’m still deciding of what thermal config I will ask when ordering the driver. I’ll look at the options MTN gives and then decide what to ask! That’s sure that the light will get really hot, but I don’t intend to use it for a long period on High!
As in my Emisar D4, I set the thermal regulation at 52º and it doesn’t get as hot as it did on 71º, holding higher output for a bit longer period !

Thanks for your input on these Big Smile Much appreciated!!

About the SF10…

Persechini wrote:
As for the biscotti + SF10, I almost did this. Nothing wrong comes to mind other than the reduced run time and loss of AA compatibility. I didn’t to it because I’m preferring to keep my smaller lights as AA, and stop using 14500s

I don’t mind that much about the AA compatibility as I have other AA/Ni-MH lights that I can use with them more easily!
The SF10 has a strong host, capable of getting beaten on EDC, so I opted to put the Biscotti in it to give a more “decent” UI. Of course it will drain a 14500 if using it on max output, and of course a Sanyo 14500 can’t deliver as much as a Samsung or a Sony 18650, nor in energy, nor in runtime. But I’ll give it a try for a while and carry it as it is now. Maybe it will become a good surprise Wink

Once again, thanks for the answer!!

DB Custom said: "Hide your billfold, cut up your credit cards... you're a perfect candidate for full blown flashaholism and will soon need dedicated flashlight cabinets. [...] Have fun! Modding is next... :P" 

Reviews : Amutorch S3 - XPG3-S3 /  AM S3 vs Neal 219c  /  Amutorch AM30 - XHP70.2 / Nitefox UT20 / Sofirn SF14 & SP10A 

Mods and tricks: 1 / 2 / 3 / 4 / 5                                                                    Convoy S2+ TIR Lenses on: XML2 / XPL-HI

 

MascaratumB
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Flashy Mike wrote:
Your sure want a forward clicky? Stock S2+ has reverse clicky. It’s a pain to use a forward clicky with reverse clicky firmware.

Well, I’m not completely sure about using the FW clicky. As I answered above, my concerns are mostly in that interaction. For what you say, the Crescendo firmware is made for reverse, not forward switches, is that correct?
Thanks for the heads up Wink

Flashy Mike wrote:
KD has this beautiful Nichia 4000K CRI92 LEDs:
http://www.kaidomain.com/p/S026299.Nichia-NVSL219C-R9050-D240-4000k-CRI9...

I use them in S2+ triple and Emisar D4. They have the best tint of all my lights. But you have to reflow them by yourself to intl-outdoor DTP MCPCBs – KD alsos sells them on triple boards but the boards are crap.
Btw: it is cheaper to buy the triple boards and take their LEDs than buying single LEDs.

Hum, I guess I prefer the emitters on the MCPCB, as my skills to reflow them are not the best FacepalmBig Smile
I’ve been looking at Intl-Outdoor and MTN to see the one I prefer. I saw KD’s but then I realized that some are aluminium instead of copper, so I abandoned a bit the idea of buying those.

Also, about the Nichias, as they get hotter than XP-G2, I ain’t sure about getting them or not. I’ll make my decisions in some days Cool

Thanks for the answer Smile

DB Custom said: "Hide your billfold, cut up your credit cards... you're a perfect candidate for full blown flashaholism and will soon need dedicated flashlight cabinets. [...] Have fun! Modding is next... :P" 

Reviews : Amutorch S3 - XPG3-S3 /  AM S3 vs Neal 219c  /  Amutorch AM30 - XHP70.2 / Nitefox UT20 / Sofirn SF14 & SP10A 

Mods and tricks: 1 / 2 / 3 / 4 / 5                                                                    Convoy S2+ TIR Lenses on: XML2 / XPL-HI

 

vwpieces
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XP-L HI V3 ** 5000K on Noctigon
Narrow spot optic
But optics are cheap. get the variety.
Use the original SW from S2+
Order driver with spring and wires.
Use the wires off triple board for the SW spring bypass.
The way the S2+ is made you can use the glass over optic or not, some lights you can’t choose.

Pill in the S2+ is brass and can have the copper spacer soldered to it directly. Apply pressure as it cools. I use the solder paste MtnE sells. I use a cook top with a block of aluminum aprox. L75mm X W50mm X H25mm. Solder don’t stick to aluminum. Drill the center hole through the pill after spacer is soldered. I guess you could lay a couple small strips of rosin gore solder between the pill and spacer. Heat and as you see it melt through the hole or out of the edges, remove from heat and apply pressure as it cools. I just always had solder paste instead. Or just use thermal paste. I prefer to solder.

MX4 thermal paste works pretty well under the MCPCB to spacer. It also allows some slip when tightening in the pill to the optics on the emitters. Keep the driver retaining ring loose until pill is fully seated. Wires will not get twisted up that way.
Again I prefer to also solder the MCPCB directly to the copper spacer. But this part gets a little more hairy as it also melts the solder on the emitters and jumpers. You will also have to redrill the holes for the optic legs as they tend to fill with solder.

MascaratumB
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vwpieces wrote:
XP-L HI V3 ** 5000K on Noctigon
Narrow spot optic
But optics are cheap. get the variety.
Use the original SW from S2+
Order driver with spring and wires.
Use the wires off triple board for the SW spring bypass.
The way the S2+ is made you can use the glass over optic or not, some lights you can’t choose.

Pill in the S2+ is brass and can have the copper spacer soldered to it directly. Apply pressure as it cools. I use the solder paste MtnE sells. I use a cook top with a block of aluminum aprox. L75mm X W50mm X H25mm. Solder don’t stick to aluminum. Drill the center hole through the pill after spacer is soldered. I guess you could lay a couple small strips of rosin gore solder between the pill and spacer. Heat and as you see it melt through the hole or out of the edges, remove from heat and apply pressure as it cools. I just always had solder paste instead. Or just use thermal paste. I prefer to solder.

MX4 thermal paste works pretty well under the MCPCB to spacer. It also allows some slip when tightening in the pill to the optics on the emitters. Keep the driver retaining ring loose until pill is fully seated. Wires will not get twisted up that way.
Again I prefer to also solder the MCPCB directly to the copper spacer. But this part gets a little more hairy as it also melts the solder on the emitters and jumpers. You will also have to redrill the holes for the optic legs as they tend to fill with solder.


Wow, thanks for the tips vwpieces!! Thats a really nice work on that!! Thumbs Up
And the XPL-HI seem to be a nice option (despite a lot more expensive than the XPG2 or Nichias). Do you get some flood and throw with them? Also, are they in parallel or in series? (sorry, I don’t how this works Facepalm )

That is a really nice work, but the thing is…my skills for soldering are just average, both to solder the spacer to the pill, and the MCPCB to the spacer. The drills I’m sure I’d manage to do those with no major issues.
Considering that, I’m not sure if I should opt for these , from kiriba-ru. The pill already has the “spacer”, so i’d just apply the MCPCB and the driver.
I run out of thermal paste, maybe I’ll try that MX4, never heard of but I expect it to be good Wink

For the optics, I guess I’ll get more than one, yes, to see which one gives the better beam and output!

About the driver/software, despite I like biscotti and I have it in 7 flashlights, I guess I’ll try a new thing! More expensive, I know, but I’ll try a new one!

Did you got your stuff from MTN ?
Thanks for the inputs on these Thumbs Up

DB Custom said: "Hide your billfold, cut up your credit cards... you're a perfect candidate for full blown flashaholism and will soon need dedicated flashlight cabinets. [...] Have fun! Modding is next... :P" 

Reviews : Amutorch S3 - XPG3-S3 /  AM S3 vs Neal 219c  /  Amutorch AM30 - XHP70.2 / Nitefox UT20 / Sofirn SF14 & SP10A 

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Persechini
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I have never thought about soldering the spacer! That seem a good idea and not that hard to achieve with solder paste. I just use thermal paste and the pressure from screwing the pill to keep contact. I used a glass before, but one time I screwed in to hard and cracked it, plus once I forgot it running on turbo and the optics are a little warped on the surface Big Smile

Hoop also had some wonderful pills which could screw driver with AMCs on the spring side, a pitty it’s been unavailable since before I got here

mattlward wrote:
They sure do function well! Not the LED I will use… but needed a pic! Hoop2Hoop1

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vwpieces
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Well those threaded pill spacer combo are nice. I have some. Its about what you want to pay in the end. I know you are ordering from MtnE already and he has the spacers. Your call.

Order the emitters in Parallel. If you do not specify Richard will default to parallel.
I think the XP-L HI and Spot optic will net most throw. Carclo tend to create artifacts because of the little pipes between the optics and the legs also add to it. I prefer to scuff the top to help diffuse that. A spot optic has holes to create a more direct light path or throw. Get 2 of them and scuff one to see the difference. Med spot also comes already frosted, that helps remove the artifacts. But less throw on that one. Wide spot is the lesser in throw. Experiment with the optics. I always use glass over because I use chemicals in the shop that will melt the plastic and the plastic scratches easier than glass. Brake cleaner, lacquer thinner carb cleaner etc…

I like Bistro for a triple because it has the user set thermal sensor. I think you will appreciate it in the end for a direct drive triple.
I hear the ramping Cresendo works for Clicky, should also have thermal temp sensor. I want to try this one but have not so I can’t tell you to go for it. MtnE offers it and there was a short thread praising it. Cresendo is like the D4 on a Clicky SW. I will order this UI in a driver on my next order. OK go for it, let me know. I really like the D4 UI.

Soldering a spacer to a pill is really not hard. Med heat on an electric burner, when it melts take it off and push on the spacer till it cools. I have also done it with the parts directly on the stove top element. Have the tools ready and a safe place to set the hot parts to cool. A pliers that will hold the pill easily and a phillips screwdriver to push the center as it cools. Don’t need to push hard, just move the liquid solder out to a minimum thickness. Once the solder sets you can cool with water. Drill the hole. It’s actually much easier to drill the hole if the parts are soldered together than loose. Don’t clamp the threads in a vise without good protection. I just drill it in my hand but wont tell you to do that. Big Smile I know and can feel when it almost through and about to Grab/spin.

vwpieces
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Those Hoop pills were Art. I have a couple on hold for special projects.

I have soldered the MCPCB direct to the heads in my S41 lights with Tpad anc fitted Carclo before they resolved the de-doming issues.

MascaratumB
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vwpieces wrote:
Well those threaded pill spacer combo are nice. I have some. Its about what you want to pay in the end. I know you are ordering from MtnE already and he has the spacers. Your call.

Those are certainly some masterpieces Shocked I guess they would also be “noob” proof for a guy like me Big Smile
I ordered 1 pill and 1 spacer from kiriba-ru, but the other things will probably be ordered from MTN. I’m still checking if its better for me to order the emitters (MCPCB + LEDs) from Intl-Outdoor or from MTN, but as the shipping won’t probably suffer an increase with those, I may order from MTN.

vwpieces wrote:
Order the emitters in Parallel. If you do not specify Richard will default to parallel. I think the XP-L HI and Spot optic will net most throw. Carclo tend to create artifacts because of the little pipes between the optics and the legs also add to it. I prefer to scuff the top to help diffuse that. A spot optic has holes to create a more direct light path or throw. Get 2 of them and scuff one to see the difference. Med spot also comes already frosted, that helps remove the artifacts. But less throw on that one. Wide spot is the lesser in throw. Experiment with the optics. I always use glass over because I use chemicals in the shop that will melt the plastic and the plastic scratches easier than glass. Brake cleaner, lacquer thinner carb cleaner etc…

Thanks for the answer about the “parallel” or in “series”, I’ll ask parallel then Wink About the optics, I guess I’ve put 3 or 4 in my shopping cart Big Smile I’ll try to see the one that suits me the most!
About the LEDs…I don’t know if I’ll opt for the XPL-HI…They are really expensive, and although I wanted some “throw”, I’m not sure if I can pay that much for the XPL-HI… I was thinking about XPG2 3D or something with a neutral tint. I’ll look to my wallet and see what I can do!
However, the explanation about the optics functioning and what to chose is of major help! The only light with multiple optics I have is the Emisar D4, so…not much experience with those so far Facepalm

vwpieces wrote:
I like Bistro for a triple because it has the user set thermal sensor. I think you will appreciate it in the end for a direct drive triple. I hear the ramping Cresendo works for Clicky, should also have thermal temp sensor. I want to try this one but have not so I can’t tell you to go for it. MtnE offers it and there was a short thread praising it. Cresendo is like the D4 on a Clicky SW. I will order this UI in a driver on my next order. OK go for it, let me know. I really like the D4 UI.

Yup, it has temperature sensor, or you can buy it without “sensor” as well (at least I perceived that seeing the options on MTN). I’ll get mine with Crescendo + Crescendo temp sensor, as it seems more reasonable. I want a pocket rocket, but not an exploding rocket Big Smile
When I get it, I’ll let you know Wink Meanwhile, there’s a very recent thread on Crescendo here : http://budgetlightforum.com/node/57061 .

vwpieces wrote:
Soldering a spacer to a pill is really not hard. Med heat on an electric burner, when it melts take it off and push on the spacer till it cools. I have also done it with the parts directly on the stove top element. Have the tools ready and a safe place to set the hot parts to cool. A pliers that will hold the pill easily and a phillips screwdriver to push the center as it cools. Don’t need to push hard, just move the liquid solder out to a minimum thickness. Once the solder sets you can cool with water. Drill the hole. It’s actually much easier to drill the hole if the parts are soldered together than loose. Don’t clamp the threads in a vise without good protection. I just drill it in my hand but wont tell you to do that. Big Smile I know and can feel when it almost through and about to Grab/spin.

Hum, I guess that in theory I would be able to do that, but I’ll just try it in last case. I have a spare S2+ pill that I may use with the spacer I ordered. But for this build, I guess I’ll stick with a safer option, to use an appropriate pill for triple.
Also, where I’m living, I don’t have the best conditions nor the appropriate tools to do the job! In my parents’ home, my father has some tools I can use and I have outdoor space to run if anything goes wrong Big Smile (LOOOOL)
But I figured out the process as you said it. If I had plenty spare pieces, I’d use them and damaged without problem, but having to order them, taking some time to arrive and being expensive, sometimes, is a drawback, so I have to play safe for now! If the first triple works fine, I’ll adventure myself on others Evil

Thank you so much for the answers! I’m now in more conditions to make my choices and order the things BlushingThumbs Up

DB Custom said: "Hide your billfold, cut up your credit cards... you're a perfect candidate for full blown flashaholism and will soon need dedicated flashlight cabinets. [...] Have fun! Modding is next... :P" 

Reviews : Amutorch S3 - XPG3-S3 /  AM S3 vs Neal 219c  /  Amutorch AM30 - XHP70.2 / Nitefox UT20 / Sofirn SF14 & SP10A 

Mods and tricks: 1 / 2 / 3 / 4 / 5                                                                    Convoy S2+ TIR Lenses on: XML2 / XPL-HI

 

MascaratumB
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Persechini wrote:
Emitter I particularly love the 219C in 4000k and 5000k (I like the 5000k tint more, but it wasn’t available in 90+ CRI at the time). I imagine, if you want to maximize throw, that xp-g2 or xp-l HI will be the more logic route, and if the D4 thread can be used as reference, both will take a little longer to heat up than the nichia. The Jaxman LG triple has been reviewed on another thread, and the tint was not considered great

Yesterday I was searching on AliExpress and noticed that the “triple” I posted on OP from Jaxman, is not the LG.
I posted this: https://www.aliexpress.com/store/product/Triple-LED-lamps-with-MCPCB-for...

The LG is this: https://www.aliexpress.com/store/product/LG-High-CRI-LED-bare-LED-and-LE...

Even their shape is different! I just wanted to inform and correct my later reply to you Wink

DB Custom said: "Hide your billfold, cut up your credit cards... you're a perfect candidate for full blown flashaholism and will soon need dedicated flashlight cabinets. [...] Have fun! Modding is next... :P" 

Reviews : Amutorch S3 - XPG3-S3 /  AM S3 vs Neal 219c  /  Amutorch AM30 - XHP70.2 / Nitefox UT20 / Sofirn SF14 & SP10A 

Mods and tricks: 1 / 2 / 3 / 4 / 5                                                                    Convoy S2+ TIR Lenses on: XML2 / XPL-HI

 

Persechini
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Oh, the XP-G2 is another story, one I’m no too familiar with to give an opinion

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My collectionConvoy: C8 Clear / S2+ Clear / S2+ / S2+ UV / S6 ― Nitecore: Tube / Thumb / Concept 1 / HC30 / Tip ― Trustfire: Z2 ― Sofirn: SF10 / SF12