My oLight i3s has no photographable flicker on moon mode. It is also <0.5 lumens on my meter
My Maratac AAA has no photographable flicker on its low that my meter says is 2.5 lumens.
The S Mini has photoFlicker on its 8 lumen low (my meter) also. Neither the oLight i3s, nor the Maratac AAA, or my Mecarmy PT-16 have any photoFlicker on their lows…
constant Current no longer means no visible or photoFlicker. The moon on oLight also shows dots when waving the light (a popular PWM test)… but its too fast to see on Low…
this is my first S Mini. I love the host. The driver and LED, not so much… but… Im still happy to play with it. Im accustomed to Nichias in my other lights… the S Mini has a Majorly green center to its beam… definitely makes the palm of my hand look cadaverous…
IF I was criticizing, and Im not, just entertained, the “lockout” should be a true lockout, NO light should come from the switch being pocket activated, but, at least it won’t drain power for long, since its intermittent, nor very fast, since its only moon…
Like that I can always get to moon by press hold from off… confusing that it goes into lockout if I hold too long…
like that tripple click gives strobe, and double click gives high, as those match the way my PT-16 UI works… in fact, so does the press to advance… so the oLight UI is easily intuitive… I like the memory, cause I can store moon or Low if I want to (or med or high too, but thats not me)… Im a moon and Low user, mostly…
Like that even without the clip, the oLight won’t roll off a table, due to the bump around the switch… Love the knurling!
tons of fun, no regrets, love the copper, love that the clip works on a hat
at some point, after the High CRI S1 goes on sale, Im contemplating picking one up as a donor… I would like to go to a Nichia, and would like the low battery indicator, in the Cu S Mini host… but that depends on not frying the S1 Mini High CRI driver… which so far has been reported as a potential issue… once…