I have mine with Bistro, but I have no experience with guppy
My triple has the 219C 4000k 90+ CRI, but Hank from intl-outdoor will sell the triple board with the same 5000k 90+ CRI 219C that goes in the D4 if you ask him, it's my favorite LED so far and the ones from my broken D4 are already inhabiting some of my other flashlights and I have a triple board in the mail to replace my 4000k version (or maybe even assemble another triple).
Output is a bit lower (D240 bin vs D260 I think) and both aren't as bright as the XP-L V3 bin, but at this point we are just adding confusion with a barrage of options, hehe. For higher output, the XP-L is the way to go
Can you give me a link to this? so I can see what you are talking about? I like all the feedback, it’s just me trying to find the stuff you guys are talking about you are providing a lot of into but if you guys could include links it would help me along faster.
I ordered items for my 2nd S2+ triple last week, once you’ve done it, you’ll be addicted :person_facepalming:
I bought the triple xpl hi on copper dtp 4500K from kaidomain, a copper pill from kiriba, and a TA driver from Lexel, should become a hot-rod pocket rocket :sunglasses:
I was in the same boat with the build. I ordered the wrong copper spacer for mine, originally, and got the s6 one. Solution… Order an s6 host and the right spacer for the s2+, two lights now. These things multiply like rabbits.
I went with nichia 219c in the s6, as the heat sinking is a bit bigger with the larger copper piece. XPL-hi in the s2+. Used MTN fet drivers in both, with blf a6 FW.
I also go with BLF A6 when getting the MTN FET + 7135 driver. It’s easy to quickly switch through the modes and the strobe, battery check (<which guppy doesn’t include), bicycle flasher are hidden so you don’t end up with those unless you want them.
No, I have several running on Nanjg 105D 8x so about 2.8A output, most with older firmware…I really like the new A6 firmware (so many awesome modes) plus in the higher modes…it really drives the lights to their full potential…
Truthfully the MOSFET A6 driver is built less complicated than the 105D variants…even though the modes can be a bit daunting once you figure out the button sequence to modify modes and whatnot it’s a MUCH better option
I’m going to go ahead and order 2 of those above and upgrade my triple that I finally got running
Sorry to bother you, been reading this thread and already have the BLF-X6X5 driver. I’m a bit unsure too but want to make a triple, when buying the led’s on the board, do I need them in parallel or series for this driver?
Also does anyone know anything about those optics you get with the board/led’s from Kaidomain?
For BLF Fet driver you need all leds to be in parallel
As per optics there are several types and the main difference is the angle of light coming out of them, clear one like in your image will give you lowest dissipation angle which means best throw, frosted lense will spread light more evenly but you will loose on throw
I’m also in the process of building a triple. I got a S2 host, but I’m not super happy with it, so I ordered a S8 which is in the mail.
I bought the carlco 10509 frosted wide optic and I like it a ton. Makes a wall of light which is perfect for my use case.
I also got the KD triple board(nichia 219c) and the optics on that are much more focused, but still very floody compared to my single emitter lights.
Also the KD board is much thinner than the noctigon 3xp and the lens’ legs protrude from the bottom. Had to snip them a little bit so the lens would put a bit of pressure on the MCPCB/spacer connection. And the carlco optics do not fit the board either, different leg sizes. Will be using the 3XP with the 10509 in my final build.
you are providing a lot of into but if you guys could include links it would help me along faster.
