Happy new year, friends!
after few months work, now we have finished the improvement of E3 flashlights, now let me introduce some details of the E3 to dear all.
first, according to the 1st edtion of E3, new edition has a stainless head.
second, the new E3 has a bigger head and tail in OD, and a smaller wrist. that will make it a little hansom.
in order to make a stainless head ring design ,I have to choose this whole body solution…… 
which many friends like…
Jaxman ordered DTP MCPCB will be standard design in later products.
the driver can avoid an reverse of battery placing. all small parts are with Au coating.
now the tail cap is more smaller than the old edition,easy to find and press.
and Li Ion batteries are also ok for it…..but pls take care of over discharge…
AND THERE IS ANOTHER IMPORTANT THING TO DISCUSS. THAT IS:
1, high- middle- very low or high- middle?
2,use 5050 LED or 3535 LED? I think the reflector is small, if we use a XML SIZE —-flood well; if use xpg2 /nichia 219 size—-have a well spot…
3,and the high CRI and normal LED are also need to be considered….
AND THERE IS THE LAST ONE THING TO SAY:
WE ARE VERY UNHAPPY TO SEE A COPY OF NEW EDITION E3 LATER. RECORDED HERE, AND TO SEE IF THERE WILL BE A COPY OF NEW E3. TODY IS 2018-1-3!
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2 option, nichia 219c(max 600 lumen) and xpl-hi( max 800 lumen)
that’s what i suggest
Forgot my pen
and Li Ion batteries are also ok for it…..but pls take care of over discharge…
are you telling us the light has no over discharge protection for 14500 lithium batteries?
[Reviews] Miboxer C4-12, C2-4k+6k, C2, C4 / Astrolux K1, MF01, MF02, S42, K01, TI3A / BLF Q8 / Kalrus G35, XT11GT / Nitefox UT20 / Niwalker BK-FA30S / Sofirn SF36, SP35 / Imalent DM21TW / Wuben I333 / Ravemen PR1200 / CL06 lantern / Xanes headlamp
[Mods] Skilhunt H03 short / Klarus XT11GT, XT12GTS / Zebralight SC50+ / Imalent DM21TW / colorful anodisation
[Sale] TA based drivers NarsilM or Bistro OTSM 17-22mm, S42, L6, Q8, MF01, SRK, TN42 / Narsil based buck driver for 20-30mm MF01/02, TN40/42, GT, MT09R / Remote switch tail DD board with FET
hi I have difficult in visiting BLF and especially message box….
We love flashlights.
https://www.facebook.com/joson.paul.10
@Lexel, yes, this driver will lose the overdischarge protection for a 14500 battery.
We love flashlights.
https://www.facebook.com/joson.paul.10
Beautiful flashlight. Jaxman makes some very nice products. I would like to see a XPL-Hi version. I will definitely purchase one when they are available.
make it moon-lo-med-hi and please add over discharge protection
Don’t mistake my kindness for weakness.
I am kind to everyone, but when someone is unkind to me, weak is not what you are going to remember about me.
Nice light. It appears that “copy” is a Thorfire TG06. They’ve been around for years. Just sayin.
If that is the case then I hope that long protected 14500s (such as Keeppower 840mAh) will fit.
Recent Reviews:
XTAR DRAGON VP4 Plus Zanflare S2
Klarus XT2CR BLF Q8 Convoy S2+ DT
Nitecore P10GT Klarus XT11GT
Nitecore NU25 Nitecore HC65 Nitecore P26
Yongnuo YN360 Convoy C8+ Klarus FX10
Nitecore MT22C Folomov 18650S
FW3A Strobes
if the driver for lithium is simply unregulated that’s not so bad the LED gets very dim before overdischarge happens
But if its boost/buck then protected cell or driver gets update
[Reviews] Miboxer C4-12, C2-4k+6k, C2, C4 / Astrolux K1, MF01, MF02, S42, K01, TI3A / BLF Q8 / Kalrus G35, XT11GT / Nitefox UT20 / Niwalker BK-FA30S / Sofirn SF36, SP35 / Imalent DM21TW / Wuben I333 / Ravemen PR1200 / CL06 lantern / Xanes headlamp
[Mods] Skilhunt H03 short / Klarus XT11GT, XT12GTS / Zebralight SC50+ / Imalent DM21TW / colorful anodisation
[Sale] TA based drivers NarsilM or Bistro OTSM 17-22mm, S42, L6, Q8, MF01, SRK, TN42 / Narsil based buck driver for 20-30mm MF01/02, TN40/42, GT, MT09R / Remote switch tail DD board with FET
hi, the old E3 is finished no late than Feb 2015. see a picture uploaded in my China store:
If the copy lights is sold not late than Feb 2015,then I can say I make a mistake..
and that all is not important,all is passed, I only hope, they not make a plagiarism of new E3.
I hope all people respect others feeling, at any time and place.
best wishes.
We love flashlights.
https://www.facebook.com/joson.paul.10
hi I am considering that and in trying for this.
I think this is a solution for Li batteries.
In fact the AA and Li Ion have different voltages ,so it is very hard to set a over-discharge function in this driver.
We love flashlights.
https://www.facebook.com/joson.paul.10
I’d vote for these modes as well, and for the over discharge protection (I only have/use unprotected 14500 batteries
)
For the LED, I would say Nichia or XP-G2
Nice work Jaxman!!
[REVIEWS] AMUTORCH: S3 / S3 vs 219c / AM30 / AX1 / VG10 /// SOFIRN: SF14 & SP10A / SP32A / SP10B /// NITEFOX: UT20 / ES10K / K3 /// ODEPRO: KL52 / B108 /// ACEBEAM: H20 /// BLITZWOLF: BW-ET1 /// DQG: AA Slim Ti /// HC-LIGHTS: SS AAA /// XTAR: PB2 Charger /// OLIGHT: M2R Warrior /// WUBEN: TO10R / E05 / T70 / E10 /// ON THE ROAD: M1 / i3 / M3 Pro /// ROVYVON: A2 & A5R / E300S / A8 /// KLARUS: XT1C /// LUMINTOP: Tool AA V2.0 & Tool 25
Tricks: 1 / 2 / 3 / 4 / 5 / 6 / 7 / 8 /// TIR Lenses:1 / 2 /// Others: Biscotti 3 & 1*7135 / Triple TIR & XP-G2 ///// My Collection ///// My Review's Blog (PT)
GIVEAWAY: 1
I vote for always start on high
less modes the better
Nice design! Here are my suggestions to your questions:
1, high- middle- very low or high- middle?
Always start on the lower mode. Don't forget a good low moonlight (moon - low - med - high)
starting on high or med is TERRIBLE, never do that, please
2,use 5050 LED or 3535 LED? I think the reflector is small, if we use a XML SIZE —-flood well; if use xpg2 /nichia 219 size—-have a well spot…
3535, so you can use the same reflector for xp-l, xp-g2/3 and nichia 219C
3,and the high CRI and normal LED are also need to be considered….
219C 90 CRI is always good, and there are few flashlights for AA/14500 that have this option (usualy high cri versions use older 219B). I personaly love the 90+CRI 219C 5000k
For regular lower CRI led, could also have the option of cool white and neutral white (6500k and 5000k)
In my Tree
My collection: Emisar: D4 / D1 / D4 (broken) ― Convoy: C8 Clear / S2+ Clear / S2+ / S2+ UV / S6 ― Nitecore: Tube / Thumb / Concept 1 / HC30 / HC33 / TIP / TIP CRI / TINI ― Lumintop: Tool AAA / Tool AA / HLAAA / EDC05 ― Sofirn: SF10 / SF12 / SF12 / SF14 / SF14 / SF14 / SP10A / SP10A (gifted) ― Jaxman: E3 ― UTorch: UT01 ― Trustfire: Z2 ― Skyfire: SF-065 (trashed)
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good product . it’s small and beautiful
The gioi den chum trang tri noi that chat luong cao, gia thanh re tai Ha Noi
That is a nice new version of the E3, nice with the SS bezel, still a bit fat (I like smaller AA-flashlights like the Lumintop Tool-AA or the Acebeam M10), but nicer already.
I hope that the design will not be copied.
What is the light output on a NiMh battery?
1) I vote for verylow-low-middle-high
2) 3535 led for sure
3) high CRI Nichia219C is nice, but also low CRI in nice tint (Nichia or Cree or Samsung/LG)
link to djozz tests
+1
Ouch, in your face thorfire, sofirn and all others.
and on the first day he said "Let there be light"...
I’m confused — is the E3 with 219C for sale on AliExpress an older model?
Please Jaxman
1. Include moonlight mode below 0.1lumen like Zebralight or user configurable moonlight like Manker
2. Use warm or neutral emitter of ar least 90+ cri
3. use bi-directional configurable driver like blf a6
And have a very Happy 2018 !
2A with 219c for 600lm and 2A with luxeon v for 900lm. And no glue, please!
It is: https://www.aliexpress.com/store/product/JAXMAN-E3-high-CRI-outdoor-Flashlight-Torch-use-AA-alkaline-or-Ni-MH-battery-Nichia-219B/1812094_32610831028.html?spm=2114.12010608.0.0.4eb9e47iwzsVx
Being it already released, do you intend to make any changes on the driver, jaxman? On the product page it says: Middle and High only.
[REVIEWS] AMUTORCH: S3 / S3 vs 219c / AM30 / AX1 / VG10 /// SOFIRN: SF14 & SP10A / SP32A / SP10B /// NITEFOX: UT20 / ES10K / K3 /// ODEPRO: KL52 / B108 /// ACEBEAM: H20 /// BLITZWOLF: BW-ET1 /// DQG: AA Slim Ti /// HC-LIGHTS: SS AAA /// XTAR: PB2 Charger /// OLIGHT: M2R Warrior /// WUBEN: TO10R / E05 / T70 / E10 /// ON THE ROAD: M1 / i3 / M3 Pro /// ROVYVON: A2 & A5R / E300S / A8 /// KLARUS: XT1C /// LUMINTOP: Tool AA V2.0 & Tool 25
Tricks: 1 / 2 / 3 / 4 / 5 / 6 / 7 / 8 /// TIR Lenses:1 / 2 /// Others: Biscotti 3 & 1*7135 / Triple TIR & XP-G2 ///// My Collection ///// My Review's Blog (PT)
GIVEAWAY: 1
I agree with all of what Persechini said (copied below) and djozz too. Those would be exactly my suggestions.
I would add as a few others have that I don’t like that it doesn’t have over-discharge protection. I understand it’s not easy as you want it to also work with Alkaline and NiMH cells but I think you need to seriously consider resolving that issue. As others have mentioned most people here have unprotected 14500 cells. Simply having the driver set to blink a few times and shut off if the voltage is 1.6V – 2.9V would cover most scenarios. Not perfect but much better than not having any form of LVP.
Wait, isn’t the E3 a version of the TG06? I thought thorfire’s came first, and sofirn is kinda like the same factory as thorfire, but not really
In my Tree
My collection: Emisar: D4 / D1 / D4 (broken) ― Convoy: C8 Clear / S2+ Clear / S2+ / S2+ UV / S6 ― Nitecore: Tube / Thumb / Concept 1 / HC30 / HC33 / TIP / TIP CRI / TINI ― Lumintop: Tool AAA / Tool AA / HLAAA / EDC05 ― Sofirn: SF10 / SF12 / SF12 / SF14 / SF14 / SF14 / SP10A / SP10A (gifted) ― Jaxman: E3 ― UTorch: UT01 ― Trustfire: Z2 ― Skyfire: SF-065 (trashed)
I think the host all come from a few factories.
ThorFire, Convoy, Sofirn, Jaxman, etcetera… get their hosts from the same factory / factories, i think.
I assume Mateminco makes all hosts for Utorch, Manker, Astrolux (but maybe not anymore), etc..
About the modes:
Best to start with MEDIUM.
Because medium is most usable.
2Q19
Not that anyone with a flashlight collection can claim complete sanity, but your are definitely farther gone than me, haha
In my Tree
My collection: Emisar: D4 / D1 / D4 (broken) ― Convoy: C8 Clear / S2+ Clear / S2+ / S2+ UV / S6 ― Nitecore: Tube / Thumb / Concept 1 / HC30 / HC33 / TIP / TIP CRI / TINI ― Lumintop: Tool AAA / Tool AA / HLAAA / EDC05 ― Sofirn: SF10 / SF12 / SF12 / SF14 / SF14 / SF14 / SP10A / SP10A (gifted) ― Jaxman: E3 ― UTorch: UT01 ― Trustfire: Z2 ― Skyfire: SF-065 (trashed)
This is somewhat accurate regarding hosts but you have too many lumped into the same basket.
Convoy and Jaxman get their hosts from the same factory. That’s why they both have such nice hosts.
Thorfire uses a different factory and I don’t know about Sofirn.
Mateminco makes all the hosts for Astrolux but Manker broke away quite a while ago and use a different factory. The rest I’m not sure of.
As far as your mode tastes buddy we are on two different worlds but you have a right to your opinion. Personally, I hate lights that start on medium…but that’s just me.
Probably the same or a similar driver / configuration as with the M2: https://de.aliexpress.com/store/product/JAXMAN-M2-2AA-LED-flashlight-torch-light-use-AA-LR6-UM3-battery/1812094_32794173177.html?spm=a2g0×.12010608.0.0.a2b7863q9QcxY
Low > Med > High would be nice. No strobe.
I think Nichia 219c as the only option in warm / neutral is fine. Would be nice to have one brand which consistently has Nichia options. Wouldn’t mind if they dropped all Cree emitters except in throwers. The 219c seems good enough to make high CRI the default for most floody EDC lights.
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