Hello. I just picked up a Convoy M1 and stuck a XHP 70 in it. Light works great but I wanted to do the diode and res mod. I have read some threads on here but my board looks different can someone tell me where the diode and res go? Also how many 7135’s can I stick on the 8 that are on the board now. Thanks for all the help you can provide. Driver board attached.
Also is anyone making a gasket for the XHP70 and the M1?
Xhp70? Convoy M1? Stock linear driver? Bad joke…
The reflector has a 9mm hole for LED? If so, here is gasket
For zener mod, you must remove the diode (next to + LED) and insert a resistor in its place. (Marked in blue)
The zener diode (not the one removed) you have to solder as I pointed out in the picture. (Marked in green)
Wildcat
The linear driver is good for this because you know the maximum current that goes into the LED. I plan to do it for 2 cells but with mt-g2
Thank you sir for the help, I thought those were the places I just wanted to make sure.
Suggestions as to where we can buy the zener diode at a reasonable price are welcome. More pictures of the diode would be nice.
You need a 4v3 zener diode and a 200ohm resistor in the 0805 package. Of course, you can look for something cheaper. These links are just an example.
In one picture, the zener diode has a strap. This strap should be like in the picture I pointed with an arrow
edit.
I’m not 100% sure but the zener diode can also be soldered on these empty pads
From Digikey this is what I ordered
RES SMD 200 OHM 1% 1/8W 0805 Part# 541-200CCT-ND
DIODE ZENER 4.3V 500MW SOD123 Part # MMSZ5229B-FDICT-ND
How many 7135’s can I stick on the 8 that are on the board now?
Also I looked on Digikey for the 7135’s but I am unable to find them I had to order them off FastTech. AMC7135 350mA SOT-89 and AMC7135 380mA SOT-89
For xhp70 (not xhp70.2) and 2.8A it is around 17.4W. A bit warm. I would leave 8 amc and see how much the body heats up. If you decide, for example, after 15 minutes, the temperature is OK, then add amc. Remember that the LED feels different temperature than you. As for me, 10x amc would probably be too much. This is 3.5A and over 22W. But almost 3000Lm!
It gets warm running Full power. Even with it on low it gets warmish, but not to the point it unholdable. so I guess i’ll leave it at 8. thanks for the info man.
I love the fact the light get’s so hot, I seen a youtube video on this. that is why I picked this as my first light to mod. Just seeing how bright it was amazed me. Also just so it’s on the page. I used 2 Demonfire IMR 18350 High Drain 3.7V 1200mAhTailCap spring mod
Thanks for all the suggestions and links. Would you upload close up pictures of your work? I’d like to see the zener diode and resistor soldered to the board.
Will do as soon as I get the parts. should be here later this week.
AMC7135s will throttle current when getting too hot
just keep in Mind at 2S even the stock ones generate double heat than normal
[Reviews] Miboxer C4-12, C2-4k+6k, C2, C4 / Astrolux K1, MF01, MF02, S42, K01, TI3A / BLF Q8 / Kalrus G35, XT11GT / Nitefox UT20 / Niwalker BK-FA30S / Sofirn SF36, SP35 / Imalent DM21TW / Wuben I333 / Ravemen PR1200 / CL06 lantern / Xanes headlamp
[Mods] Skilhunt H03 short / Klarus XT11GT, XT12GTS / Zebralight SC50+ / Imalent DM21TW / colorful anodisation
[Sale] TA based drivers NarsilM or Bistro OTSM 17-22mm, S42, L6, Q8, MF01, SRK, TN42 / Narsil based buck driver for 20-30mm MF01/02, TN40/42, GT, MT09R / Remote switch tail DD board with FET
if one pin has 0 Ohm to ground and the other to the 200 ohms resistor
[Reviews] Miboxer C4-12, C2-4k+6k, C2, C4 / Astrolux K1, MF01, MF02, S42, K01, TI3A / BLF Q8 / Kalrus G35, XT11GT / Nitefox UT20 / Niwalker BK-FA30S / Sofirn SF36, SP35 / Imalent DM21TW / Wuben I333 / Ravemen PR1200 / CL06 lantern / Xanes headlamp
[Mods] Skilhunt H03 short / Klarus XT11GT, XT12GTS / Zebralight SC50+ / Imalent DM21TW / colorful anodisation
[Sale] TA based drivers NarsilM or Bistro OTSM 17-22mm, S42, L6, Q8, MF01, SRK, TN42 / Narsil based buck driver for 20-30mm MF01/02, TN40/42, GT, MT09R / Remote switch tail DD board with FET
Thanks sir
So can we use the empty pads of the stock Convoy driver like the one in the picture? Does the stock driver have the 0 Ohm pin and another for 200 Ohms?
Thanks. Take your time and enjoy your mod project. Looking good so far.
OK, so here is the mod done. The Diode was a bit big but it’s just connected to ground, I wonder if there is a better Diode for this. I also upgraded the power and ground wires to 18AWG.
Awesome…bad ass!!!!
Nice solder job
Need some shots of that bad boy in action!
Don’t always trust those “*fire” batteries…chinesium ratings and all that…I like the purple efest ones…they usually do pretty well and are good batteries
Now you gotta learn to solder the button on the flattop batteries (pretty easy if you scuff the contact and use plenty of flux)
Full power
Powered Off
celling bounce
Told ya flashlights are addictive
Great job on your very first mod!
I actually just ordered 2 of the purple EFEST batts. I picked up the fire ones cause people said they we’re good batteries.
cool cool…caveat emptor and all that
Thanks for the pics. Nice mod. How long can you hold the light when running full power?
Very True.
I have let the light run for a few min’s and it’s fine at full power. it does start to get warmish. I’ll have to tun it on and just let it run see at what point I can’t hold it anymore.How is that for a Solder ball?
After doing some research I think a better option would be going for a DSOD-323F package DDZ4V3BSF-7DICT-ND the size measures 2.50mm x 1.25mm. The cap this is going on is an 0805 so that is 2.00mm x 1.25mm. and just for reference the MMSZ5229B-FDICT-ND that is the SOD-123 is 3.65mm x 1.55mm I have not ordered the “DDZ4V3BSF-7DICT-ND” yet but I plan on it, to double check the size. So if someone is going to do this mod I would order a couple of the “DDZ4V3BSF-7DICT-ND” they are only 0.17 cents
SOD-323F
SOD-123
Good find. Would you post a picture of your work after trying the smaller 323F?
Of course I will.
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