[PART 1] Official BLF GT Group Buy thread. Group buy officially closed! Lights shipping.

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DENGOH
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Spartan16 wrote:
DENGOH wrote:
Pulsar wrote:
I think the odd part is that your 4 posts on the forum is on these last two pages, so you couldn’t have purchased a GT?
Was he using PM to be added to the list?

??


Did you post your first post here asking to be added to the list?

cool i'll see you when you get there

JasonWW
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Spartan16 wrote:
FlashIight wrote:
Spartan16 wrote:
Angry Angry Angry VERY seriously concerned.. I’m waiting for mine to be delivered.. and I’ve just come across the following on YouTube.. this guy has the original ‘Giggles’ BLF Gigathrower (which is what I thought I was purchasing..) and now has just received the new BLF GT we’ve all ordered.. and he compares the two.. go to 03:16… he starts with the original and then fires up the new model we’re all getting… and get ready to weep.. if mine performs like this with the (relatively) weak yellow beam – it’ll be getting returned for a refund.

Watch this … and weep.. go to 03:16

The warmer tint of the production model means that less light is diffracted in the air, and more of it hits the target. That’s why you get less of a lightsaber effect… Most people prefer neutral or warm white tints for throwers (when they actually want to see the things they’re pointing their light at).

Unfortunately – the camera doesn’t lie.. it is crystal clear from the video that the new model has a marked reduction in performance.

I know people have different preferences of tint.. but in my experience of both users and the progression of recent years of flashlight development, yellow is inferior – by far.
I remember watching numerous comparison videos of stuff like the first XLH diodes etc… and the latest and best was always the ‘brightest and whitest’. It gives more clarity and is just, well, brighter.


That is Matt (Vestureofblood on this forum), he tested the prototype light which had “giggles” written on it and it also had a cooler temp led in it.

The fact is, the camera CAN lie. The real proof is measuring the output with a meter than is not influenced by color temperature. Both lights are putting out about 2,500 lumen. Both have the same throw measurements.

A neutral white led was desired earlier in the product development (like 4500k to 5000k), but there was not enough stock available once production was about to begin. So the decision was made to go a bit warmer to a 4000k color temp where we knew we could get all high bin, high quality leds in the quantity that was needed.

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Pulsar
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Spartan16 wrote:
Pulsar wrote:
I think the odd part is that your 4 posts on the forum is on these last two pages, so you couldn’t have purchased a GT?

No no.. not odd at all.. I’m on the list and have paid – the list which is now closed.. only reason I’m posting now is that I just came across the video whist looking for any recent posts about the flashlight.. and got worried… been a member since last year


I just searched the paid list and didn’t see your name on it
Spartan16
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Pulsar wrote:
Spartan16 wrote:
Pulsar wrote:
I think the odd part is that your 4 posts on the forum is on these last two pages, so you couldn’t have purchased a GT?

No no.. not odd at all.. I’m on the list and have paid – the list which is now closed.. only reason I’m posting now is that I just came across the video whist looking for any recent posts about the flashlight.. and got worried… been a member since last year


I just searched the paid list and didn’t see your name on it

I’ll PM you… confused…

KawiBoy1428
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Spartan16 wrote:
ZozzV6 wrote:
Spartan16 wrote:

Unfortunately – the camera doesn’t lie..


I can make a video from an 1000 lumen flashlight seem brighter than a 3000 lumen light or with white balance adjusting tricking your eyes.

Your eyes doesn’t lie. You need to see it in person to judge.

Yeah.. of course i’ll try it when it arrives.. but c’mon.. I mean just watch the linked vid from about 03:12 onwards…..

…even the beam ray from the newer model is weaker… before you even look at what they’re pointed at…


Both of my GT’s tested at the emitter on Turbo were what they were supposed to be 2.50amps.

1.99 amps on High…

KB1428 “Live Life WOT

Spartan16
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‘A neutral white led was desired earlier in the product development (like 4500k to 5000k), but there was not enough stock available once production was about to begin.’

…really wish I’d known this prior to ordering… Sad

..something tells me I won’t be alone in this either…

Spartan16
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DENGOH wrote:
Spartan16 wrote:
DENGOH wrote:
Pulsar wrote:
I think the odd part is that your 4 posts on the forum is on these last two pages, so you couldn’t have purchased a GT?
Was he using PM to be added to the list?

??


Did you post your first post here asking to be added to the list?

Yup Smile

srwaite
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Spartan16 wrote:
‘A neutral white led was desired earlier in the product development (like 4500k to 5000k), but there was not enough stock available once production was about to begin.’

…really wish I’d known this prior to ordering… Sad

..something tells me I won’t be alone in this either…

As difficult as this thread is to follow, this has been known for some time. You probably won’t be alone, and I was skeptical until I had my production unit in hand. But it is glorious. Don’t judge it until you try it.

raccoon city
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Spartan16, do you have more than one BLF account?

I ask because your first post with this account is from about an hour ago.

Spartan16
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raccoon city wrote:

Spartan16, do you have more than one BLF account?


I ask because your first post with this account is from about an hour ago.

Y’know.. I’m lost on that as well.. just been chatting to Pulsar about that very thing… I am on the list – all paid up.. got the email to my personal email account telling me it was time to place the order in December..

You been chekin’ me out or something..??? Wink

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Greenterror2112 wrote:
JasonWW wrote:
Greenterror2112 wrote:
I selected registered mail, I never got any tracking info. It was a nice surprise when I woke up, and the box was on the table, this light is much bigger in person than I thought it would be.

So you didn’t ask Neal to change it to DHL? It actually came registered mail? And that quickly?

I really thought these first 2 shipments where all DHL.

I selected registered, and left it at that, now that you ask, I looked at the box and DHL sticker is on it, shipped Hong Kong to Las Vegas NV, than US postal took it from there to Lake Havasu city, Priority two day mail. I’m happy, you guys done great, Neal done great, I payed the moment Neal put the note on facebooks flashlight fanatics.


I guess Neal swapped the shipping on his own. I know TA suggested that all US orders be set the DHL by default, but I don’t think they actually did it. I think they left it up the customer.

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Keisari
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Spartan16 wrote:

I’m saying that as per the linked video.. there’s a marked reduction in performance of the new model.. if you read the associated thread comments on that video you will see others making the same observation..

I’m sorry to be blunt, but I hear the lack of experience speaking. There’s a significant improvement visible right there. And for the yellow you think is inferior, there is none of that. The 4000 K color temperature is pretty close to ideal on a long range thrower, when it’s going to be used outdoors and not in a lab. White balance makes 4000 K appear sort of yellow on camera – when directly compared to an impractically blue cool white.

While 4500 K would probably been the preferred choice for most and arguably the best one, I’m glad it turned out this way and not with a, say, 5000 K emitter. Amateurs would be glad to have a more visible beam in the atmosphere, but it would be less than ideal for IRL performance.

Spartan16 wrote:

Yeah.. of course i’ll try it when it arrives.. but c’mon.. I mean just watch the linked vid from about 03:12 onwards…..

…even the beam ray from the newer model is weaker… before you even look at what they’re pointed at…


Exactly. The “beam ray” is wasted light. That’s why warmer is better in throwers if it does not sacrifice too much. This is pretty much basic curriculum.
Spartan16
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Keisari wrote:
Spartan16 wrote:
I’m saying that as per the linked video.. there’s a marked reduction in performance of the new model.. if you read the associated thread comments on that video you will see others making the same observation..
I’m sorry to be blunt, but I hear the lack of experience speaking. There’s a significant improvement visible right there. And for the yellow you think is inferior, there is none of that. The 4000 K color temperature is pretty close to ideal on a long range thrower, when it’s going to be used outdoors and not in a lab. White balance makes 4000 K appear sort of yellow on camera – when directly compared to an impractically blue cool white.

Then allow me to be blunt back…

Numbers are not what matter. Perceptions matter. Perceptions make purchases – not numbers.
For the past few years we’ve seen great leaps in technology.. XML, XP’s, XP-G2’s, XHP’s… and whenever a new production is compared with a previous led/flashlight, the improvement is almost always a ‘whiter and brighter’ beam and light-up of target.

Cheap Fl’s have the hallmark blue-tint white lights which we all know are crude attempts to make something brighter.. agreed, in that context cooler is not helpful when you’re at the 6500 – 7500 mark.
But I say again… the video speaks volumes and there is a CLEAR difference between the two flashlights.. and if the guy had not labelled the screen with which version he was operating.. I would put money on it, that many folk would have presumed from the difference in performance that the order he operated them in (original first, new model second) was the OPPOSITE way around.
Try it yourself.. just watch the clip from 03:16 and try not too take notice of the labels telling you which one he’s shining.. and ask yourself HONESTLY… which one would you presume to be the newer version..??

Go to 03;16 to save time

Spartan16
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Keisari wrote:
Spartan16 wrote:

I’m saying that as per the linked video.. there’s a marked reduction in performance of the new model.. if you read the associated thread comments on that video you will see others making the same observation..

I’m sorry to be blunt, but I hear the lack of experience speaking. There’s a significant improvement visible right there. And for the yellow you think is inferior, there is none of that. The 4000 K color temperature is pretty close to ideal on a long range thrower, when it’s going to be used outdoors and not in a lab. White balance makes 4000 K appear sort of yellow on camera – when directly compared to an impractically blue cool white.

While 4500 K would probably been the preferred choice for most and arguably the best one, I’m glad it turned out this way and not with a, say, 5000 K emitter. Amateurs would be glad to have a more visible beam in the atmosphere, but it would be less than ideal for IRL performance.

Spartan16 wrote:

Yeah.. of course i’ll try it when it arrives.. but c’mon.. I mean just watch the linked vid from about 03:12 onwards…..

…even the beam ray from the newer model is weaker… before you even look at what they’re pointed at…


Exactly. The “beam ray” is wasted light. That’s why warmer is better in throwers if it does not sacrifice too much. This is pretty much basic curriculum.

Yeah BUT… check this video out at 12:30… the beam was hitting stuff like miles away… with a lovely bright white beam and clear target light-up…

Go to 12:30

northbeard
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JasonWW wrote:
cypher1024 wrote:
northbeard wrote:
Along with many others, I’m sure, I do have a slight feeling of apprehension. I found myself at #1280 on the list and waited patiently. A couple of weeks went by and got an email saying to pay. Did so, got the reply from PayPal and a note from Neal asking for BLF name and phone number. Sent those in with the PayPal transaction number. I have not seen a PM to me at all during the entire time I’ve been waiting and lurking, and no further emails at all.

With the group buy closing and so many new orders, are there those that have paid as I have but have no forum PM to back up their claim? Will we get passed by?

Nearly biting my nails, here!

I’m not sure how that’s possible. The purchase link was in the PM, (the email is just a notification of a new PM).

There’s a chance you’ve been phished…


Let’s not jump to conclusions. He said he got his paypal receipt and the email from Neal, so it sounds legit.

He is also protected using Paypal. He can always file a claim if need be.

Northbeard, did you pay on Madmax’s website?

Edit, I sent TA a PM to see if he was sent the purchase information. There might have been a few people accidentally sent the Purchase info who shouldn’t have. It was a mass PM setup by the forum owner so not perfect.

Edit: it turns out to be all legit.

Yes, this was through M4DM4X – I can forward more details via PM if needed. Not panicking, just slightly anxious with the prospect of seeing this monster at some point.

Rah_BE
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Explained once:

FlashIight wrote:
The warmer tint of the production model means that less light is diffracted in the air, and more of it hits the target. That’s why you get less of a lightsaber effect…

Explained twice:

patmurris wrote:
the more you see the beam the less light gets to the target – that’s what happens with CW tint.

Then, after that you write:

Spartan16 wrote:
I mean just watch the linked vid from about 03:12 onwards…..

…even the beam ray from the newer model is weaker… before you even look at what they’re pointed at…

Are you even reading what people are typing when they respond to you? No one is disagreeing that the pre-production light had a more visible beam. They are saying the beam isn’t the purpose of the light.

Texas_Ace
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Spartan16 wrote:
Keisari wrote:
Spartan16 wrote:
I’m saying that as per the linked video.. there’s a marked reduction in performance of the new model.. if you read the associated thread comments on that video you will see others making the same observation..
I’m sorry to be blunt, but I hear the lack of experience speaking. There’s a significant improvement visible right there. And for the yellow you think is inferior, there is none of that. The 4000 K color temperature is pretty close to ideal on a long range thrower, when it’s going to be used outdoors and not in a lab. White balance makes 4000 K appear sort of yellow on camera – when directly compared to an impractically blue cool white.

Then allow me to be blunt back…

Numbers are not what matter. Perceptions matter. Perceptions make purchases – not numbers.
For the past few years we’ve seen great leaps in technology.. XML, XP’s, XP-G2’s, XHP’s… and whenever a new production is compared with a previous led/flashlight, the improvement is almost always a ‘whiter and brighter’ beam and light-up of target.

Cheap Fl’s have the hallmark blue-tint white lights which we all know are crude attempts to make something brighter.. agreed, in that context cooler is not helpful when you’re at the 6500 – 7500 mark.
But I say again… the video speaks volumes and there is a CLEAR difference between the two flashlights.. and if the guy had not labelled the screen with which version he was operating.. I would put money on it, that many folk would have presumed from the difference in performance that the order he operated them in (original first, new model second) was the OPPOSITE way around.
Try it yourself.. just watch the clip from 03:16 and try not too take notice of the labels telling you which one he’s shining.. and ask yourself HONESTLY… which one would you presume to be the newer version..??

Go to 03;16 to save time

Like others have said, the neutral tint beam is brighter at lighting stuff up in real life, hands down, no question.

The cool white beam is brighter in the air due to the scattering of the blue wavelengths in the air (the same reason the sky is blue).

You do NOT want to see the beam, all that light you see in the beam, is light not making it to your target down range.

The camera sees the beam of the CW better but that is only the camera. In real life you will see what you are aiming at better with the neutral white tint.

For example I had an L6 and S70, the L6 was NW and the S70 was CW.

I tested them both side by side on the meter, the S70 had more throw and more lumens with the meter readings. I fully expected it to throw better in the real world.

I was shocked when I tested it with 7 other people and the exact opposite was true. Everyone 100% agreed that the L6 was better and threw the beam further with better clarity and contrast.

We were shining it across a Creek and the S70 could just make out the shoreline. The L6 on the other hand could see the frogs jumping into the water the difference was so extreme.

You are welcome to change out the emitter or sell the light if you desire but please don’t go spreading false information.

You have had a half dozen people explain this to you at this point, most of them with many years of experience and hundreds of builds with high end flashlights.

Spartan16
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Rah_BE wrote:
Explained once:
FlashIight wrote:
The warmer tint of the production model means that less light is diffracted in the air, and more of it hits the target. That’s why you get less of a lightsaber effect…

Explained twice:

patmurris wrote:
the more you see the beam the less light gets to the target – that’s what happens with CW tint.

Then, after that you write:

Spartan16 wrote:
I mean just watch the linked vid from about 03:12 onwards…..

…even the beam ray from the newer model is weaker… before you even look at what they’re pointed at…

Are you even reading what people are typing when they respond to you? No one is disagreeing the the pre-production light had a more visible beam. They are saying the beam isn’t the purpose of the light.

Rah_BE… yes I am reading what people are saying – very carefully – thankyou for asking…

What I’m saying is that ‘whiter and brighter’ has been the trend in recent years.. one which whenever I’ve had a newer more powerful flashlight, the improvement has been (literally) clear.
Suddenly.. the afore-mentioned video seems to show a reduction in the APPARENT brightness and clarity – yes I know the numbers add up, but the perception doesn’t.
If I had wanted a yellow warm beam I’d have used my 1980’s MAGLITE..!!LOL!!

Enderman
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This is true ^^^
The reason so many manufacturers only use cool white these days is because it does appear brighter, to the eye and on camera.
A typical layperson is far more likely to pick the cool white, especially if they like the way the beam looks in the sky.
.
.
For something like the GT, very few people are using it to actually illuminate something at 3km as part of their job, most people are buying it for fun and “wow” factor of the beam.
A extra few lumens on the target is most likely not what most people are concerned about.

For this reason, almost two years ago we chose neutral while for the LED.
Not sure who made the decision (without consulting anyone else) to swap it for 4000k which is extremely warm, especially for cree LEDs which often have a yellow/green tint at those colour temperatures.
Neutral white would have been ~5700k.

I suggest that anyone who wants that impressive super bright beam swap their LED out for a 5700-6500k, or simply return/sell the light.

Texas_Ace
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Enderman wrote:
This is true ^^^
The reason so many manufacturers only use cool white these days is because it does appear brighter, to the eye and on camera.
A typical layperson is far more likely to pick the cool white, especially if they like the way the beam looks in the sky.
.
.
For something like the GT, very few people are using it to actually illuminate something at 3km as part of their job, most people are buying it for fun and “wow” factor of the beam.
A extra few lumens on the target is most likely not what most people are concerned about.

For this reason, almost two years ago we chose neutral while for the LED.
Not sure who made the decision (without consulting anyone else) to swap it for 4000k which is extremely warm, especially for cree LEDs which often have a yellow/green tint at those colour temperatures.
Neutral white would have been ~5700k.

I suggest that anyone who wants that impressive super bright beam swap their LED out for a 5700-6500k, or simply return/sell the light.

The tint change was discussed, we had planned for a 3D tint all along but they were sold out world wide in a high bin so we settled for the best thing we could get, which was 4000k. There were many pages on the subject. The fact it preforms better in the real world was a bonus.

It was not a decision so much as lack of options, this was the only viable option we had at the time. So the choice was wait a few months to start production or go with what we had. Not much of a choice to say the least.

While I love the 4000k personally, My favorite tint is 4500k and I like a good 3D as well.

I will say this LED has no hint of green in the beam, it looks like a small sun.

Pulsar
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I think 5000k would be a good sweet spot personally, but my led will be swapped eventually to put out more lumens and less lux. And when I do it will be a 5000k emitter (no clue what emitter yet though)

Spartan16
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Enderman wrote:
This is true ^^^
The reason so many manufacturers only use cool white these days is because it does appear brighter, to the eye and on camera.
A typical layperson is far more likely to pick the cool white, especially if they like the way the beam looks in the sky.
.
.
For something like the GT, very few people are using it to actually illuminate something at 3km as part of their job, most people are buying it for fun and “wow” factor of the beam.
A extra few lumens on the target is most likely not what most people are concerned about.

For this reason, almost two years ago we chose neutral while for the LED.
Not sure who made the decision (without consulting anyone else) to swap it for 4000k which is extremely warm, especially for cree LEDs which often have a yellow/green tint at those colour temperatures.
Neutral white would have been ~5700k.

I suggest that anyone who wants that impressive super bright beam swap their LED out for a 5700-6500k, or simply return/sell the light.

Thank you OH thank you..!!

I was just starting to sniff the first whiffs of a mob-mentality against me … and people speaking to me like:

a) I wasn’t reading any responses
b) I had no experience in flashlights whatsoever
c) I was just some negative brainless sh$t out to cause trouble..!

teacher
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NikolaS wrote:
Bucky the killer wrote:
Asking for two please.

GB is officially closed

Enderman wrote:
Maybe he’s talking about the two he already asked for in his first two posts.

Yep, Enderman is correct…. he is answering JasonWW’s question from Post 14441. He has asked several times because he did not see his name on the list that HAS NOT been updated. This was the answer to Jason’s question from the linked post below………

http://budgetlightforum.com/comment/1254332#comment-1254332

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patmurris
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I’m planning to put only four cells in my GT.

Is there any benefit to load all height slots apart from runtime? Like would it be brighter?
My understanding is it would not make any difference due to the rather low pull on the cells.

Spartan16
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Texas_Ace wrote:
Spartan16 wrote:
Keisari wrote:
Spartan16 wrote:
I’m saying that as per the linked video.. there’s a marked reduction in performance of the new model.. if you read the associated thread comments on that video you will see others making the same observation..
I’m sorry to be blunt, but I hear the lack of experience speaking. There’s a significant improvement visible right there. And for the yellow you think is inferior, there is none of that. The 4000 K color temperature is pretty close to ideal on a long range thrower, when it’s going to be used outdoors and not in a lab. White balance makes 4000 K appear sort of yellow on camera – when directly compared to an impractically blue cool white.

Then allow me to be blunt back…

Numbers are not what matter. Perceptions matter. Perceptions make purchases – not numbers.
For the past few years we’ve seen great leaps in technology.. XML, XP’s, XP-G2’s, XHP’s… and whenever a new production is compared with a previous led/flashlight, the improvement is almost always a ‘whiter and brighter’ beam and light-up of target.

Cheap Fl’s have the hallmark blue-tint white lights which we all know are crude attempts to make something brighter.. agreed, in that context cooler is not helpful when you’re at the 6500 – 7500 mark.
But I say again… the video speaks volumes and there is a CLEAR difference between the two flashlights.. and if the guy had not labelled the screen with which version he was operating.. I would put money on it, that many folk would have presumed from the difference in performance that the order he operated them in (original first, new model second) was the OPPOSITE way around.
Try it yourself.. just watch the clip from 03:16 and try not too take notice of the labels telling you which one he’s shining.. and ask yourself HONESTLY… which one would you presume to be the newer version..??

Go to 03;16 to save time

Like others have said, the neutral tint beam is brighter at lighting stuff up in real life, hands down, no question.

The cool white beam is brighter in the air due to the scattering of the blue wavelengths in the air (the same reason the sky is blue).

You do NOT want to see the beam, all that light you see in the beam, is light not making it to your target down range.

The camera sees the beam of the CW better but that is only the camera. In real life you will see what you are aiming at better with the neutral white tint.

For example I had an L6 and S70, the L6 was NW and the S70 was CW.

I tested them both side by side on the meter, the S70 had more throw and more lumens with the meter readings. I fully expected it to throw better in the real world.

I was shocked when I tested it with 7 other people and the exact opposite was true. Everyone 100% agreed that the L6 was better and threw the beam further with better clarity and contrast.

We were shining it across a Creek and the S70 could just make out the shoreline. The L6 on the other hand could see the frogs jumping into the water the difference was so extreme.

You are welcome to change out the emitter or sell the light if you desire but please don’t go spreading false information.

You have had a half dozen people explain this to you at this point, most of them with many years of experience and hundreds of builds with high end flashlights.

Hey Tex.. thanks for the explanation – really do appreciate the time to explain..
I know people shouldn’t ‘mess with Texas’… but no need to assume a parent child relationship with condescending expressions like “..you have had a half dozen people explain this to you ..” like I’m not getting it or something… Tex.. let me let you into a little secret.. I get it..!!

I’m pointing out ‘perception’ rather than lumens… read back to Enderman’s post… all shall be revealed.. Wink

Enderman
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Texas_Ace wrote:

The tint change was discussed, we had planned for a 3D tint all along but they were sold out world wide in a high bin so we settled for the best thing we could get, which was 4000k. There were many pages on the subject. The fact it preforms better in the real world was a bonus.

It was not a decision so much as lack of options, this was the only viable option we had at the time. So the choice was wait a few months to start production or go with what we had. Not much of a choice to say the least.

While I love the 4000k personally, My favorite tint is 4500k and I like a good 3D as well.

I will say this LED has no hint of green in the beam, it looks like a small sun.


Well then, I guess a bunch of people are gonna be disappointed.
Hopefully the majority do understand that it will be brighter on target so they are still satisfied with their light, especially since most people are flashlight enthusiasts.

I would like to mention that tint and colour temperature are NOT the same.
http://www.candlepowerforums.com/vb/showthread.php?384545-Which-tint-or-...
I assumed you were just discussing the tints without changing the colour temperature.

Personally I think 6500k looks white, anything like 5700k and below is too yellow.
7000-8000k is pure white which is why short arc bulbs in moving heads use those colour temperatures.
It also gives a much more visible beam.

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Spartan16 wrote:

Then allow me to be blunt back…

By all means. My opinion on this is very well informed and can withstand some criticism.

Quote:
Numbers are not what matter. Perceptions matter. Perceptions make purchases – not numbers.

Many BLF members would disagree. It’s mostly numbers that make purchases, sadly. That’s why an extreme floodlight after another has more and more maximum momentary lumens without much actual added real life performance. That’s why throw performance is advertised using the unrealistic and optimistic ANSI scale, and that’s why stated runtimes may not always match with experience in practical use.

BLF projects are not typical commercial products. They don’t have the perceptions or numbers that typically make purchases. They may not be totally practical, and with the GT, there sure isn’t a real need for most who bought it. They still somehow are compatible with the advanced hobbyists’ taste, a lot of the time. And they do have a very good real life performance if there is a practical need and application. Better than the numbers would suggest.

Quote:

For the past few years we’ve seen great leaps in technology.. XML, XP’s, XP-G2’s, XHP’s… and whenever a new production is compared with a previous led/flashlight, the improvement is almost always a ‘whiter and brighter’ beam and light-up of target.

“Whiter” as in “bluer” is not at all everyone’s wish. In commercial products, cooler white gets too much preference just because of the numbers. In throwers the numbers lie because the actual measurement is done close up. In floodlights there at least is some actual benefit with cooler color temperature and whether to prefer warm white is more about preference and/or specific needs.
Quote:

Cheap Fl’s have the hallmark blue-tint white lights which we all know are crude attempts to make something brighter.. agreed, in that context cooler is not helpful when you’re at the 6500 – 7500 mark.

Cooler is definitely not helpful even going from 4000 to 5000 K when you have a thrower with a practical range in thousands of meters rather than hundreds.

The only time cooler is factually helpful is when we want the highest raw lumens possible, e.g. highest floodlight efficiency, or when we really want harsh light, as in trying to blind someone. Everything else is about preference, environment or other specific applications. In the case there is no lumens advantage or very little, cooler isn’t better.

Quote:

But I say again… the video speaks volumes and there is a CLEAR difference between the two flashlights.. and if the guy had not labelled the screen with which version he was operating.. I would put money on it, that many folk would have presumed from the difference in performance that the order he operated them in (original first, new model second) was the OPPOSITE way around.
Try it yourself.. just watch the clip from 03:16 and try not too take notice of the labels telling you which one he’s shining.. and ask yourself HONESTLY… which one would you presume to be the newer version..??

Go to 03;16 to save time


Honestly? Oh, I saw this video earlier, and my reaction was positive. Color wise, this footage tells more about his camera and cameras in general than the lights. The warmer should not be that yellowish IRL and the cooler should not be very bluish. And comparable CT’s are not, when you have no reference point to another high power light. Both are somewhat neutral.

However, what we can observe is exactly the “stronger” beam of the inferior light, and this speaks for the new version. You don’t want to be losing photons to scattering, and you definitely don’t want to be blinded by a blue beam blocking your line of sight and reflecting back to you from every millimeter of atmosphere. This is not an 18650 EDC light, and there is a bunch of molecules to stare back at you between you and your target, say 1.5 kilometers away.

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““Well then, I guess a bunch of people are gonna be disappointed.”“

The above I think will be a bigger problem than what some will have expected… you should NEVER set people’s expectations to one thing and then it be something else when it arrives… even if certain numbers can ‘prove’ it’s performance is the same or even better.. it’s the perception of the recipient based upon the expectations set which counts.

I watched the first Giga thrower YT vid… was amazed and wanted one.. which made me order.

Looks like there’s more than a fair chance i’ll now be returning the light.. HATE warm beams… they had those in the 1800’s with candles..!!!

Keisari
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Spartan16 wrote:

Thank you OH thank you..!!

I was just starting to sniff the first whiffs of a mob-mentality against me … and people speaking to me like:

a) I wasn’t reading any responses
b) I had no experience in flashlights whatsoever
c) I was just some negative brainless sh$t out to cause trouble..!


Mob mentality? Relax. I’m not saying there is anything wrong with purchasing a high performance thrower just because it makes a nice beam in the atmosphere. Thing is, this is a flashlight enthusiasts’ forum and as ridiculous this might sound like, most likely the majority values actual throw performance more than large scale Star Wars wow factor. Not that the latter wouldn’t be nice.

Being overly critical just because this is not another blue light for mindless consumers – this is what might have triggered folks who actually know their light. Falsely interpreting a video to show things that are not there is another.

Spartan16
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Keisari wrote:
Spartan16 wrote:

Thank you OH thank you..!!

I was just starting to sniff the first whiffs of a mob-mentality against me … and people speaking to me like:

a) I wasn’t reading any responses
b) I had no experience in flashlights whatsoever
c) I was just some negative brainless sh$t out to cause trouble..!


Mob mentality? Relax. I’m not saying there is anything wrong with purchasing a high performance thrower just because it makes a nice beam in the atmosphere. Thing is, this is a flashlight enthusiasts’ forum and as ridiculous this might sound like, most likely the majority values actual throw performance more than large scale Star Wars wow factor. Not that the latter wouldn’t be nice.

Being overly critical just because this is not another blue light for mindless consumers – this is what might have triggered folks who actually know their light. Falsely interpreting a video to show things that are not there is another.

..and miss-quoting me doesn’t help either..!! I NOWHERE said that I was critical because this is not another ‘blue light’… in fact.. if you read back you will see that I do mention that cheaper blue lights are no good at all…

Please be sure of what a person has and has not said prior to accusing them of being ‘overly critical’.

““Falsely interpreting a video to show things that are not there is another”“

Work on your facts buddy.. watch the video and then find where I ‘falsely interpret’ anything…

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