What did you mod today?

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Mike C
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goshdogit wrote:
I ‘Foybezeled’ my Q8s and added some vinyl to tell them apart. Party

Really nice looking! Thumbs Up
Yokiamy
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Very nice Goshdogit!

Looking sharp!

I see Jos inspired some people by sharing the ‘foybezel’

Also the vinyl touch is wonderful!

Hopefully i’ll be able to foybezel some of my lights soon.

Thijsco19 wrote:

a regular symptom of flasholism Big Smile

“Flasholism is the most severe form of flashlight use and involves the inability to manage your flashlight use habits. It is also commonly referred to as flashlight use disorder. Flashlight use disorder is organized into three categories: mild, moderate and severe. Each category has various symptoms and can cause harmful side effects. If left untreated, any type of flashlight use can spiral out of control.”

Flashy Mike
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What the origin of the name ‘Foybezel’?
Goshdogits lights look very nice but there is a disadvantage with the flat bezel: you don’t notice when the light is still on after placing it on the head. Well, actually you will notice somewhat later when you smell the smoke … Big Smile

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Flashy Mike wrote:
What the origin of the name 'Foybezel'? Goshdogits lights look very nice but there is a disadvantage with the flat bezel: you don't notice when the light is still on after placing it on the head. Well, actually you will notice somewhat later when you smell the smoke ... :D
Foy is a BLF member (who has not logged in for years now) who was famous for his very enjoyable style of posting, and for his love for Solarforce flashlights. He did not like strike bezels and started to flatten them, claiming the proces in general by calling it Foybezeltm Party
Flashy Mike
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Cool, thanks!

goshdogit
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Thanks everyone! I really like the look of the Q8 with the flat bezel.

I sanded one as a test and immediately thought, “Dang, now I gotta do the other two.” LOL

Flashy Mike wrote:
Goshdogits lights look very nice but there is a disadvantage with the flat bezel: you don’t notice when the light is still on after placing it on the head. Well, actually you will notice somewhat later when you smell the smoke … Big Smile
Big Smile Very true! My friend, who also owns a Q8, had a similar reaction:

“Very refined, but if you set it face down, you won’t know it’s on until it burns a hole into the center of the earth.”

My other scorchers, a D4 and two Meteors, have flat bezels. Besides, I tailstand my lights. Silly

Flashy Mike
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goshdogit wrote:
Besides, I tailstand my lights. Silly
I’m still trying to do that … Big Smile
goshdogit
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I wrote:
Besides, I tailstand my lights. Silly
FlashyMike wrote:
I’m still trying to do that … Big Smile

Touché! Big SmileBig SmileBig Smile

DB Custom
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Foy was probably most notably known for his unique sign offs, he’d run everything together with no spaces between words. And he gave his “Foy Approved!” on his favorites.

WemissyouFoy!

Dale

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I’ve considered doing something similar with my stainless bezel lights but oddly have never seen it mentioned until now. What’s the best process to keep it nice, smooth, and even?

DB Custom
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Lathe. Big Smile

Dale

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Edness,

Where did you get the white surround piece for the 70.2?
gchart
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DB Custom wrote:
Lathe. Big Smile

Kinda figured Tired

Now that I rudely asked a question without first searching for the answer… off I go to see the history of the FoyBezel!

Edit: found a nice post from Foy

Foy wrote:
I recommend not using something high speed and/or overly hard to do this mod. A grinder may speed things up but the heat might discolor stainless. It gets hot enough just using an orbital. My best success is when I sand them down on the orbital starting with 100 grit. Then lightly sanding (with the orbital) with 220 grit, very lightly. Then, and this is key I believe, I use padded 150 grit and spin the bezel without sliding/moving it in any other direction, just spinning. Finally, I repeat the spinning/sanding on 320 grit padded sand paper. I believe the padded sand paper makes the bezel outside edge look more finished/professional. With regular sand paper you get a sharp edge and it would be more difficult to to smooth it evenly. All this sanding/spinning is why I use an L2r; its long body is a perfect hand-hold. I end by lightly rotating the finished bezel on very fine steel wool. I tried this because of a suggestion from someone here and it works quite well. (can’t remember who)
goshdogit
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gchart wrote:
I’ve considered doing something similar with my stainless bezel lights but oddly have never seen it mentioned until now. What’s the best process to keep it nice, smooth, and even?
DB Custom wrote:
Lathe. Big Smile
Big Smile While standing at the belt sander, I kept thinking, “I wish I was friends with a machinist.”

gchart, I removed most of the metal using a belt sander with a 40-grit belt, and it’s slow going. I moved the bezel side-to-side across the belt, and regularly rotated it to prevent uneven wear.

I love this quote by ‘old4570’ I found in this thread while reading about grinding/filing/sanding stainless bezels:

old4570 wrote:
Stainless steel is hard, so accidents are hard.

I surprised myself by managing to keep all three Q8 bezels very flat and even. I left them installed while working so the light could act as a handle and heatsink.

What lights are you thinking of altering? Perhaps you could start with an easily-replaceable (and available) bezel in case it doesn’t work out.

gchart
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No Q8 here. Just a couple smaller lights like the ThorFire TK15 and Sofirn SF36. If those get damaged, I’m really not out much.

goshdogit
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gchart wrote:
found a nice post from Foy
I read up on Foy’s methods too, and started off with an orbital sander and an 80-grit disc.

I got impatient, and I have a belt sander, so… Big Smile

I allowed the lights to cool once the heads got hot to the touch. The bezels never got anywhere near the point of discoloring the stainless.

goshdogit
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gchart wrote:
Just a couple smaller lights like the ThorFire TK15 and Sofirn SF36.
I say, “Go for it!” Party

I don’t own either of those lights, but I looked at some photos.

It looks like the SF36’s bezel might end up rather thin along the outside edge after knocking down the high spots.

FWIW, my Q8 shows about 1.50mm along the outer edge after sanding.

Be sure to update us if you end up Foy’ing anything! Smile

DB Custom
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I’ve done this sort of thing too many times with a belt sander and a file. I still do some things that way, believe it or not.

I personally would rather add crenelations than remove them, as I head stand all my lights and like being able to see if I’ve left one on in moon mode or something.

Dale

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It’s good to see some old customs brought to life.

My current and or voltage measurements are only relevent to anything that I measure.

Budget light hobby proudly sponsored by my Mastercard and unknowingly paid for by a hard working wife. 

djozz said "it came with chinese lettering that is chinese to me".

old4570 said "I'm not an expert , so don't suffer from any such technical restrictions".

Old-Lumens. Highly admired and cherished member of Budget Light Forum. 11.5.2011 - 20.12.16. RIP.

 

Yokiamy
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I am planning my first ‘Foybezel™’ with a stainless C8 bezel after reading and seeing these beauties and informational posts

Thijsco19 wrote:

a regular symptom of flasholism Big Smile

“Flasholism is the most severe form of flashlight use and involves the inability to manage your flashlight use habits. It is also commonly referred to as flashlight use disorder. Flashlight use disorder is organized into three categories: mild, moderate and severe. Each category has various symptoms and can cause harmful side effects. If left untreated, any type of flashlight use can spiral out of control.”

Pulsar
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djozz wrote:

Flashy Mike wrote:
What the origin of the name ‘Foybezel’? Goshdogits lights look very nice but there is a disadvantage with the flat bezel: you don’t notice when the light is still on after placing it on the head. Well, actually you will notice somewhat later when you smell the smoke … Big Smile
Foy is a BLF member (who has not logged in for years now) who was famous for his very enjoyable style of posting, and for his love for Solarforce flashlights. He did not like strike bezels and started to flatten them, claiming the proces in general by calling it Foybezeltm Party

He was a good guy, shame he up and left again…
comesayhifoy
gchart
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I haven’t really posted a mod in this thread in a while. Simple mod, but I swapped the LED in my ThorFire TK05. The stock “neutral white” XP-G3 was as blue as could be. I bought some Samsung LH351D 5000K from DigiKey and reflowed one onto a filed-down copper dtp board. Took some pics while I was in there, then put it back together.

Nice, truly neutral light now. And a lot more lumens. By my estimate, 50% more while in turbo and 33% more medium. Just as long of a runtime, too. More pics and details in this thread, but I’ll share a few here.

click for larger images

Beamshots [before], left to right: ThorFire TK05 (XP-G3), Klarus Mi7 (XP-L HI), Convoy M1 (XP-L 5000K)

Beamshots [after], left to right: ThorFire TK05 (LH351D 5000K), Klarus Mi7 (XP-L HI), Convoy M1 (XP-L 5000K). I apologize for the white balance difference between this and the last shot. But in comparing the three LEDs, you get the idea.

Runtimes. Disclaimer: the TK05 was tested with a Wuben-wrapped 600mah 14500. The Mi7 was using an Sanyo 800mah 14500. I need to retest with like cells.

Pulsar
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Swapped the driver in my s41s to the x5/x6 driver, and swapped in a lighted switch. Both from BG.
Would like a better lighted switch than a single LED, but it works.
Loving this driver

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Astrolux S42 with lux rc 334 module Wink

Charging and 2color button is also working here 

LEDs are Samsung l351D 5300K 70CRI

 

 

 

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A nice one…must be very efficient?

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Agro wrote:
A nice one...must be very efficient?

I don't know yet, but shape of the beam is beautiful. I didn't like the original optics and UI

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Interesting…did you have to sand down the driver or optics to fit into the S42?

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Edness wrote:
Interesting...did you have to sand down the driver or optics to fit into the S42?

Everything fits exellent, but i made a copper  2mm spacer, because original optics a little higher, than carlco.

Edness
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Hemionline wrote:

Edness wrote:
Interesting…did you have to sand down the driver or optics to fit into the S42?

Everything fits exellent, but i made a copper  2mm spacer, because original optics a little higher, than carlco.

Gotcha. I don’t like the beam pattern of the s42 optics with xp-l hi and maybe this is the solution. I think using the stock mcpcb as a spacer might work. Have to sand it down to expose the copper obviously.

koef3
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After several hours my first real Mini C8 mod is finished. Smile

The JAXMAN M8 (formerly known as Mini C8) is one of my absolute favourite light still today.

 

A long time ago I got some of these cheap LED bulbs at the german Aldi Süd (12 V GU5.3 with 38 ° beam angle).

 

 

This mod features this large coin spacer with 62 grams weight. Smile

 

 

Some days ago I noticed that the lens of it fits perfectly in the M8 head and I got the idea of a Nichia triple for floody high CRI light.

 

 

It looks small even in comparison with a Thrunite TiS / Ti3:

 

 

The beam pattern is beautiful, with flood everywhere.

 

 

The saturation is incredibly high, even higher than of the Lumileds Luxeon MZ 5700 K 90CRI I tested recently. In direct comparison the tint of the used Nichia 219BT-V1 R9050 sw57 is a bit rosy and more on the blue side, but not too much. The XP-G3 shown here is definitly warmer than the stated 5700 K (and a lot greener!) despite it was ordered at Mouser:

 

 

 

The M8 is powered by a good old 105c, with custom firmware (3 modes + 1 moonlight), with 2,800 mAmps current. I didn't want a dragster, but a useful and durable light for everyday use and I have the option for increase the current sometime. But I'm satisfied with that, and on highest mode (no stepdown) the battery lasts for more than one hour.

 

Moon 1.5 Lumens + 3 cd

Low 17 Lumens + 30 cd

Mid 208 Lumens + 400 cd

High 890 lumens + 1,700 cd after 30 sec.

 

Also very useful as photography light. Smile

My LED tests: --- Nichia 319AT 83 CRI - Lumileds Luxeon LXML-PWD9 - Luxeon MZ 5700 K (90 CRI, 3 V) - Luxeon V (CSP) 4000 K 70CRI - Luminus SST-40-W (+ dedomed) - Cree XP-L2 (+ High CRI variant) - XHP35 HI - XHP70.2 - CXA1304 COB - OSRAM OSLON Black Flat HWQP - SYNIOS DMLQ31.SGLE UW Q8WP - unknown 5050 LED ---- finished: JAXMAN M8 (Mini C8) HighCRI Triple

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