I was able to pry them off pretty easily with just my fingernails, although it did look like there was a little bit of glue used to secure them in place. As Jason said, they are really only there to provide a physical reverse polarity protection, but if you are careful there should be no issue removing them. A few people have mentioned using flat tops with the disks still in place, but Iād just go ahead and remove them to ensure good contact is made. Iām using Sony VTC6 cells in my MF01.
Here are my updated lumen estimate on the MF01 (Version 2?) I received a few days ago from Bangood.
I just received my Olight H2R Nova NW. I measured 308 lux. The H2R Nova NW was measured at 2,360 lumens by Maukka in his review on CPF
TLF also measured two different units of the H2R Nova NW at 2,380 and 2,420 lumens
Assuming 308lux equals 2,360 lumens (which I think is reasonable because the Acebeam H15 XHP70.2 CW advertised at 2,500 lumens measured 315 lux by me) here are the estimated lumens:
You know, after having the chance to compare the Nichia version to the Cree, I do notice that the Nichia is not as bright. The tint is fantastic however. The Nichia falls out of turbo a bit faster. Out of the two though Iām disappointed with the turbo time on both of them. Comparing them to my NW x7 Olight Marauder, the turbo lasts considerably longer. In reality Iād say the realistic use of MF-01 is 3000 to 5000 lumens. Comparing that to the Olight x7 on turbo level one, 5500, itās a little disappointing.
The thermal step down of MF-01 219C V1 was optimal. V2 will now operate at lower temperatures and Turbo will fall off quickly. I am also dissatisfied with 219C V2 thermal step down
Astrolux S42 219C was a wonderful tint like MF-01 219C V 1. For the arrival this month, it was a bad thing like green tint like MF-01 219C V 2ā¦