Wellp, just some generalisations as far as reliability…
Lights that I get to be reliable are as simple as possible. As I mentioned a few brazillion times, my still-to-this-day EDC is a holstered 1-mode ’502. Nothing fancy, 5000K XP-L, simple driver consisting of just a few 7135s, not even a µC to get in the way (and no, no UVLO, ’though the 7135s stop working if the voltage is too low), OP reflector, simple on/off. Does like 99% of what I’d need a light for “in the field”. Something falls under the car seat, it works great. Critter making noise in an alley, lights ’im right up. Take a reading from the gas/electric meters, it’s perfect for the job. Etc. Nothing to go wrong. Only 1.5A draw, so it’s pretty bright and has assloads of runtime (can’t even recall when was the last time I had to charge the cell, ’though I usually just top it off every few months anyway).
Simple, stoopit, works.
All my other lights are “specialty” lights. Jet-II in my bag just in case, SP10B in my pocket or bag also just in case. Glaree E03 AAA light as a zipper-pull. SF32W warm-white for nighttime. C8F/C8A for lighting up the backyard. Q8 when I want to scare the $#!+ out of someone. Etc.
My L2 is at this point just a shelf-queen, or box-queen, actually, as I keep it in its box. Haven’t “needed” it in a… well, ever. (And of course, like an idiot I go and get another one when it’s on sale. :confounded: ).
Point is, all of those with the fancy modes, e-switches, etc., are just that much more crap that can break. Something I haven’t yet gotten around to doing is to slap together an S2+ with wider-angle TIR lens, and again, a simple 1.4A or 2.1A 1-mode driver, regular come-with tube or maybe a shorty tube for an 18350, as another simple stoopit It Just Works™ light. Solder the damned thing in, so there’s no retaining ring to come loose.
If you’re interested in throwing together your own light, you can make your own bespoke light to your spex, vs trying to find The Light™ which does what you want. Any light that takes P60/P90/D26 drop-ins is hella easy to make, then you just screw the parts together and you’re done. You pick the CT/tint of the emitter, the driver you want, OP or SMO reflector, and just go. Ain’t rocket surgery, just need a soldering iron and 10min of your time.
Something to consider…