What is the expected throw in meters? I might be interested depending on how far it throws.
What light level do you want on your target?
0.25lux is seen as bright as full moon in a clear night. This is what ANSI use.
A more practical reach is normally between 1/2 and 1/3 of the ANSI reach.
You can calculate it from the candela value 135kcd for the MiniGT.
this really looks cute but deadly throw and lumens, what about the button will it be illuminated ? M4D M4X your daugther is so lucky to have it already and play with
also how far off a release is this thing, this year i asume?
What is the expected throw in meters? I might be interested depending on how far it throws.
What light level do you want on your target?
0.25lux is seen as bright as full moon in a clear night. This is what ANSI use.
A more practical reach is normally between 1/2 and 1/3 of the ANSI reach.
You can calculate it from the candela value 135kcd for the MiniGT.
scr(135kcd/0.25lux) = throw in meter
That gives me 33.75m. That can’t be right.
What are you trying to calculate?
The measured lux in post #2 should be about 750 meters. This is the ANSI-FL1 rated distance which is not that practical in the real word, but is helpful for comparing lights.
Joe was saying you can expect a nice bright hotspot out to 250 to 375 meters.
Throw (135,000) x 4 then take the square root for the answer…. 135,000 × 4 = 540,000 The square root of 540,000 is 734.85 so that’s the Meters in throw from the 135Kcd lux reading. (for those that don’t know already) This means that at 735M the amount of light hitting a subject will be similar to the light falling on same subject from a full moon. I’ve always meant to use a matchbook with a phone number written inside, could someone read that phone number by the light from this thrower at that distance? I found it to be true when testing the GT at over a mile across the lake, you could indeed read text illuminated by the GT… even at 1.1 miles distant.
If you look at a full moon it just looks white, the eye’s pupil contracts and adjusts for the brightness, but if you set a camera for the light the moon reflects onto a subject on the ground then point the camera at the moon your image will be blown out. Similarly, even from over a mile away the GT is amazing to look at!
Here’s the light meter, illuminated by the GT from across the lake, showing half a lux….
Thanks Eraursis1984, it was one of those projects that sort of got out of hand. lol Been wearing it around my neck for over 5 years now. Rebuilt drivers for it multiple times, it now has a Nichia 219C at 5000K making some 711 lumens from the little 10440 cell.
Will be interesting to see what the finals are on this little miniaturized version of the GT, I don’t have the GT anymore so this will fill it’s shoes nicely.
What is the expected throw in meters? I might be interested depending on how far it throws.
What light level do you want on your target?
0.25lux is seen as bright as full moon in a clear night. This is what ANSI use.
A more practical reach is normally between 1/2 and 1/3 of the ANSI reach.
You can calculate it from the candela value 135kcd for the MiniGT.
No need to be sorry I was dumbass when trying to calculate, but thank you for clearing it up. Also thanks to jason and Texas ace for the insight and explanation.
Um, well, um, Rey’s brass pineapple and at the moment a Nitecore TM16 are both sitting here in stock form. I don’t tend to modify a Sinner. If that helps. My S1A Baton in copper as well as my Jet-II Pro in copper are unmodified. And my Godmes T01. The Sunwayman F10R is still stock too. And my Dad’s Thrunite Titanium, the little twisty, it’s stock. As is my Titanium Olight S1 Baton with my name on it, from the X6/X5 group buy. And my number 62 X6/X5 set are still in the box, put away. And of 200 lights that’s probably about it.
Even my Ti Core from MBI is modified, I put an Australian Opal in it for the switch button and inset a purple tritium vial inside the Opal.
But I won’t be modifying the Mini GT (unless of course it needs it. )
I think it’s looking great, don’t see why it would need anything as Lumintop is pretty much nailing it. Is changing the emitter to a more preferable tint considered a mod? I don’t ever worry about ordering the right tint as it’s usually so easy to change once the light gets here and is tested. I do like white, pure unadulterated white, no blue, no green, no yellow or orange or brown. Is that so wrong?
Small correction – it will be about 1.4x the throw of a C8. The intensity is doubled, but there is a square root in the equation for throw, so you increase the throw by SQRT(2), or about 1.4.
If you want double the C8’s throw, you’ll need about 280,000 cd.
Small correction – it will be about 1.4x the throw of a C8. The intensity is doubled, but there is a square root in the equation for throw, so you increase the throw by SQRT(2), or about 1.4.
If you want double the C8’s throw, you’ll need about 280,000 cd.
Mortuus meant twice the candela, not twice the throw.
Just to clear things up on my end of it matters. I was comparing to a Thorfire C8s. Their newest C8s. I don’t have a Convoy C8s. Not 100% sure what the difference is.
Small correction – it will be about 1.4x the throw of a C8. The intensity is doubled, but there is a square root in the equation for throw, so you increase the throw by SQRT(2), or about 1.4.
If you want double the C8’s throw, you’ll need about 280,000 cd.
Mortuus meant twice the candela, not twice the throw.
Candela is brightness? Tint? I’m confused about that and drawing a blank right now
Just to clear things up on my end of it matters. I was comparing to a Thorfire C8s. Their newest C8s. I don’t have a Convoy C8s. Not 100% sure what the difference is.
Stock Thorfire C8s vs. mini GT
Thorfire C8s uses the xml2 with dome, so bigger hotspot and less throw compared to dedomed version. It and Convoy both have 2.8A drivers. I would suspect the stock C8s to have that 70kcd number, though I don’t know off hand.
So compared to the C8s, the GT Mini has maybe 300 more lumen (2.8A vs 4.5A), a 5mm bigger reflector diameter and a dedomed emitter. This might give it double the candela.
Candela is a measure of light intensity. The two basic characteristics we measure for an LED are output (in lumens) and intensity (in candela). The lumens measure how much total light is being emitted, while the intensity measures how intense the light is in single spot. So you can have high lumens, but if they are spread over a large area, the intensity will be low. Or you can have low total output, but really focus it in a tight beam and still get high intensity.
Once you know the intensity at the front of the light, you can calculate the maximum effective distance, since intensity decreases predictably with distance. The ANSI standard says you need at least 0.25 cd to illuminate an object. So to find the distance at which the intensity drops below this level, the equation works out to be SQRT(cd/0.25)
That gives me 33.75m. That can’t be right.
this really looks cute but deadly throw and lumens, what about the button will it be illuminated ? M4D M4X your daugther is so lucky to have it already and play with
also how far off a release is this thing, this year i asume?
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few weeks to go on sale I think
I am negotiating with another spot for beamshots
hope I can make a session again in a few days
find all available items in this list
i launched my new blog - all deals for members without MAP B$
find a short description about my idea here
if you want to buy a flashlight or battery for a better price: just send a mail - i will try to save you money!
I shoud have one
What are you trying to calculate?
The measured lux in post #2 should be about 750 meters. This is the ANSI-FL1 rated distance which is not that practical in the real word, but is helpful for comparing lights.
Joe was saying you can expect a nice bright hotspot out to 250 to 375 meters.
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Convoy L6 thread XHP70.2, TA FET driver, lighted side switch. - Supfire L5-S thread XHP70.2, TA FET driver, lighted side switch. Mini L6! - Thorfire S70S MTN FET driver, custom lighted side switch. - 10 NarsilM user videos for BLF Q8, GT, GT70, GT Mini, GT Micro, Astrolux S43(S) and ROT66
Texas_Ace BLF Calibrated Lumen tube and Maukka Calibration Lights for DIY Lumen Measuring Devices - List of Actively Cooled Lights - Headlight List with prices, specs and features - Jaxmnve M1 Stainless 10180 Keychain light Review - Lumintop ODF30 Review - Sofirn C8F 21700 Teardown and Review, Sofirn SP33 v2 XHP50.2 Review - My Sofirn Q8 Results - Astrolux S43S 219C Test Results - Lumintop GT Mini Test Results - Lumintop GT Micro Test Results
Thanks! I knew I’ve seen it before, but I don’t think I’ve seen the in depth description of the build.
Very nice DB!
Throw (135,000) x 4 then take the square root for the answer…. 135,000 × 4 = 540,000 The square root of 540,000 is 734.85 so that’s the Meters in throw from the 135Kcd lux reading. (for those that don’t know already) This means that at 735M the amount of light hitting a subject will be similar to the light falling on same subject from a full moon. I’ve always meant to use a matchbook with a phone number written inside, could someone read that phone number by the light from this thrower at that distance? I found it to be true when testing the GT at over a mile across the lake, you could indeed read text illuminated by the GT… even at 1.1 miles distant.
If you look at a full moon it just looks white, the eye’s pupil contracts and adjusts for the brightness, but if you set a camera for the light the moon reflects onto a subject on the ground then point the camera at the moon your image will be blown out. Similarly, even from over a mile away the GT is amazing to look at!
Here’s the light meter, illuminated by the GT from across the lake, showing half a lux….
Thanks Eraursis1984, it was one of those projects that sort of got out of hand. lol Been wearing it around my neck for over 5 years now.
Rebuilt drivers for it multiple times, it now has a Nichia 219C at 5000K making some 711 lumens from the little 10440 cell. 
Will be interesting to see what the finals are on this little miniaturized version of the GT, I don’t have the GT anymore so this will fill it’s shoes nicely.
Y’all know I’m not saying the Mini GT will throw a mile, right? But following the tradition of it’s big brother it will still be a nice throwy light.
It’s a bit more 734m
Sorry for the confusion
ANSI value:
Square root ( 135000 cd / 0.25 lux )
Interested!! Looks cool. How does it compare to a C8s though? Just curious
Throw wise
Mike
And it’s not even out yet duuuhhhhh Mikeadoo!!
Mike
No need to be sorry I was dumbass when trying to calculate, but thank you for clearing it up. Also thanks to jason and Texas ace for the insight and explanation.
Oops, Texas_Ace is not even on this thread. Looks like you mixed up the two Texans. I did that once myself.
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Convoy L6 thread XHP70.2, TA FET driver, lighted side switch. - Supfire L5-S thread XHP70.2, TA FET driver, lighted side switch. Mini L6! - Thorfire S70S MTN FET driver, custom lighted side switch. - 10 NarsilM user videos for BLF Q8, GT, GT70, GT Mini, GT Micro, Astrolux S43(S) and ROT66
Texas_Ace BLF Calibrated Lumen tube and Maukka Calibration Lights for DIY Lumen Measuring Devices - List of Actively Cooled Lights - Headlight List with prices, specs and features - Jaxmnve M1 Stainless 10180 Keychain light Review - Lumintop ODF30 Review - Sofirn C8F 21700 Teardown and Review, Sofirn SP33 v2 XHP50.2 Review - My Sofirn Q8 Results - Astrolux S43S 219C Test Results - Lumintop GT Mini Test Results - Lumintop GT Micro Test Results
Off the top of my head, I can’t think of any examples. What did you not modify?
should be alot better then c8, almost twice throw i think. C8 has like 70kcd vs minigt 135kcd.
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available in the groupbuy July 2018
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find a short description about my idea here
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The proportion looks a bit off on that picture on the box.
Head should be a little bit bigger.
And here I go again being a dumbass
Sorry DB
sexy so gt-mini is the name then, i think its perfect!
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The micro USB usb port would be very useful.
Um, well, um, Rey’s brass pineapple and at the moment a Nitecore TM16 are both sitting here in stock form. I don’t tend to modify a Sinner. If that helps. My S1A Baton in copper as well as my Jet-II Pro in copper are unmodified. And my Godmes T01. The Sunwayman F10R is still stock too. And my Dad’s Thrunite Titanium, the little twisty, it’s stock. As is my Titanium Olight S1 Baton with my name on it, from the X6/X5 group buy. And my number 62 X6/X5 set are still in the box, put away.
And of 200 lights that’s probably about it. 
Even my Ti Core from MBI is modified, I put an Australian Opal in it for the switch button and inset a purple tritium vial inside the Opal.
But I won’t be modifying the Mini GT (unless of course it needs it.
)
I think it’s looking great, don’t see why it would need anything as Lumintop is pretty much nailing it. Is changing the emitter to a more preferable tint considered a mod? I don’t ever worry about ordering the right tint as it’s usually so easy to change once the light gets here and is tested. I do like white, pure unadulterated white, no blue, no green, no yellow or orange or brown. Is that so wrong?
Thanks motuus!
I want one for sure
Mike
Small correction – it will be about 1.4x the throw of a C8. The intensity is doubled, but there is a square root in the equation for throw, so you increase the throw by SQRT(2), or about 1.4.
If you want double the C8’s throw, you’ll need about 280,000 cd.
These numbers seem a bit suspicious. What C8 does 70kcd? Is it one with a xm-l2 or one with xpl-hi?
The Convoy C8 with xpl-hi and 2.8A driver surely wouldn’t have half the candela, would it?
The output difference would be about 350 lumen and the reflector is 5mm bigger in diameter. Is that enough to double the candela?
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Convoy L6 thread XHP70.2, TA FET driver, lighted side switch. - Supfire L5-S thread XHP70.2, TA FET driver, lighted side switch. Mini L6! - Thorfire S70S MTN FET driver, custom lighted side switch. - 10 NarsilM user videos for BLF Q8, GT, GT70, GT Mini, GT Micro, Astrolux S43(S) and ROT66
Texas_Ace BLF Calibrated Lumen tube and Maukka Calibration Lights for DIY Lumen Measuring Devices - List of Actively Cooled Lights - Headlight List with prices, specs and features - Jaxmnve M1 Stainless 10180 Keychain light Review - Lumintop ODF30 Review - Sofirn C8F 21700 Teardown and Review, Sofirn SP33 v2 XHP50.2 Review - My Sofirn Q8 Results - Astrolux S43S 219C Test Results - Lumintop GT Mini Test Results - Lumintop GT Micro Test Results
Mortuus meant twice the candela, not twice the throw.
KSGER STM32 2.1S Soldering Station Videos - Review Soon
Convoy L6 thread XHP70.2, TA FET driver, lighted side switch. - Supfire L5-S thread XHP70.2, TA FET driver, lighted side switch. Mini L6! - Thorfire S70S MTN FET driver, custom lighted side switch. - 10 NarsilM user videos for BLF Q8, GT, GT70, GT Mini, GT Micro, Astrolux S43(S) and ROT66
Texas_Ace BLF Calibrated Lumen tube and Maukka Calibration Lights for DIY Lumen Measuring Devices - List of Actively Cooled Lights - Headlight List with prices, specs and features - Jaxmnve M1 Stainless 10180 Keychain light Review - Lumintop ODF30 Review - Sofirn C8F 21700 Teardown and Review, Sofirn SP33 v2 XHP50.2 Review - My Sofirn Q8 Results - Astrolux S43S 219C Test Results - Lumintop GT Mini Test Results - Lumintop GT Micro Test Results
Just to clear things up on my end of it matters. I was comparing to a Thorfire C8s. Their newest C8s. I don’t have a Convoy C8s. Not 100% sure what the difference is.
Stock Thorfire C8s vs. mini GT
Mike
Candela is brightness? Tint? I’m confused about that and drawing a blank right now
Mike
Thorfire C8s uses the xml2 with dome, so bigger hotspot and less throw compared to dedomed version. It and Convoy both have 2.8A drivers. I would suspect the stock C8s to have that 70kcd number, though I don’t know off hand.
So compared to the C8s, the GT Mini has maybe 300 more lumen (2.8A vs 4.5A), a 5mm bigger reflector diameter and a dedomed emitter. This might give it double the candela.
70kcd = 529 meters (x 1.4 = 740 meters)
135kcd = 735 meters
So you would definitely see further with the GT Mini.
(This is all just theory off the top of my head)
KSGER STM32 2.1S Soldering Station Videos - Review Soon
Convoy L6 thread XHP70.2, TA FET driver, lighted side switch. - Supfire L5-S thread XHP70.2, TA FET driver, lighted side switch. Mini L6! - Thorfire S70S MTN FET driver, custom lighted side switch. - 10 NarsilM user videos for BLF Q8, GT, GT70, GT Mini, GT Micro, Astrolux S43(S) and ROT66
Texas_Ace BLF Calibrated Lumen tube and Maukka Calibration Lights for DIY Lumen Measuring Devices - List of Actively Cooled Lights - Headlight List with prices, specs and features - Jaxmnve M1 Stainless 10180 Keychain light Review - Lumintop ODF30 Review - Sofirn C8F 21700 Teardown and Review, Sofirn SP33 v2 XHP50.2 Review - My Sofirn Q8 Results - Astrolux S43S 219C Test Results - Lumintop GT Mini Test Results - Lumintop GT Micro Test Results
Thanks Jason! So how does this group buy thing work? I know I got to put my name on some list but IDK how to do that
Mike
cd = candela. kcd = kilocandela = 1000 candela.
Candela is a measure of light intensity. The two basic characteristics we measure for an LED are output (in lumens) and intensity (in candela). The lumens measure how much total light is being emitted, while the intensity measures how intense the light is in single spot. So you can have high lumens, but if they are spread over a large area, the intensity will be low. Or you can have low total output, but really focus it in a tight beam and still get high intensity.
Once you know the intensity at the front of the light, you can calculate the maximum effective distance, since intensity decreases predictably with distance. The ANSI standard says you need at least 0.25 cd to illuminate an object. So to find the distance at which the intensity drops below this level, the equation works out to be SQRT(cd/0.25)
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