Dale, thanks for the advise man! I’ll give it a shot :+1:
Edit: Should I unsolder that jumper I just put on there?
Does it work with that jumper in place? If so you’re good to go…
It turns on, but the UI is really weird. When I turn the tailcap on, the light turns on (its suspended to turn on with the side switch like the D4). Sometimes it’ll ramp, sometimes it has set modes it likes to go through. :person_facepalming:
I’ll have to give mine another go. Thanks from me too. I figured it was dead. I’ll have to grab another host now.
Solder your + led lead to the board making sure enough shielding is striped so you have enough wire to go through to the spring side and be pretty flush with that side. Make sure solder is built up and covering the pad on the led + lead side and the spring side. Get rid of the jumper solder from before. Then do a short spring side bypass. 20AWG is good enough for the short spring bypass. If it’s still acting up then look (with a magnifying glass) for shorts on any other components. If no obvious shorts are found then just cook it (reflow it) by whatever means you can come up with. (Remove the spring and lay it on some aluminium foil in a pan and put it on the stove at around med high heat and watch it till the solder liquifies then remove from heat. If you have flux use it liberally. Once it’s reflowed then clean it with acetone or alcohol and acid brush. Inspect with magnifying glass again for solder balls and shorts. Remove solder balls and shorts. Make up some test leads with small magnets and alligator clips. Test the setup outside the host before installing into said host. If it still doesn’t work then send it back and give Richard whatever he asks to fix it.
I want to reduce the current of my stock L6 driver to 4A. Can anybody tell me how to calculate what sense resistor I need?
I’ve seen a formula of 0.22/sense resistor = output for a 6V emitter, so if you used a R050 it should be around 4.4A, an R060 would be around 3.6A. This is guesstimating and coming from me so you should probably check it. 
Just to be clear, DB is saying remove the pair of R082 (making 0.041 ohms) and put in its place a single R050.
I think his numbers sound about right. The amp draw can also vary based on what batteries you use so you might have to get a few different values (R045, R050, R055, R060) and actually try them out.
If this formula holds true for this driver then the .041 resistance should be netting around 5.36A, is this the case? (An R056 should get you in the ball park of your 4A target…)
As you can see here though, it doesn’t take a lot of difference in the sense resistor to make a fairly large impact on the output current. Make small changes, in other words…
Thanks guys!
I will try that. Does anybody now the actual package type of the used resistor?
Looks like a 1206 to me…
Yeah, 1206.
On my stock light I got:
4.6A with Liitokala 5000mah and
5.1A with protected KeepPower 5200mah.
Which way is the L2 driver retaining ring threaded?? I can’t get this thing to budge an inch.
RH thread… Lefty loosy…
any deal around for the regular black L2? 
I’ve mostly deals for the new colours lately…
So after 2 drivers, and 2 emitters, I finally got the RMM FET driver with NarsilM in my L6… man what a great light! For so long I didn’t really use my L6 because of the weird tailswitch and side switch combo. To say the very least, it was an awkward pair.
FET with Narsil is the way this light SHOULD have come stock from Convoy.
Is there any chance about a side e-switch L2 like the L6 will happen? Or anybody know a nicely moddable light like that?
I would love a side switch L2 with a FET and Narsil. Like a GT mini, but easy to mod.
Yes that’s what I want. Or a GT midi with one 26650
I built a mini L6. 
It might get replaced by the new C8F 21700.
Once we get some e-switch boost drivers, I’ll make a new mini L6. I’ve already had the new host since April. I’m still waiting on those boost drivers. Lol