[♛ FreemeGB] Haikelite MT09R 3x XHP70.2 25,000lm & 3x XHP35 Hi 6500LM Flashlight Group Buy -【 ACTIVE 】

[Aleister]

Does Haikelite know about this? Do we know if they have plans to fix it?

I am saying “fix it” and not just “improve it” because if with just a spring bypass the FET dies, I don’t think that it will die only after spring bypass. It could die on flashlights with a little bit better soldered springs or with the randomly “better” springs of the batch or after 10 minutes use of an unmodified light, who knows.

I think that too many factors can add 5% power and too many factors can make some FETs 5% worse, that could be the 10% difference which kills the FET.

I wouldn’t use an elevator that has 100kg limit, if I was 98kg and at 102kg it falls and kills whoever is inside.

[Texas_Ace]

@Aleister

Does Haikelite know about this? Do we know if they have plans to fix it?

I am saying “fix it” and not just “improve it” because if with just a spring bypass the FET dies, I don’t think that it will die only after spring bypass. It could die on flashlights with a little bit better soldered springs or with the randomly “better” springs of the batch or after 10 minutes use of an unmodified light, who knows.

I think that too many factors can add 5% power and too many factors can make some FETs 5% worse, that could be the 10% difference which kills the FET.

I wouldn’t use an elevator that has 100kg limit, if I was 98kg and at 102kg it falls and kills whoever is inside.

There is a big factor to keep in mind, while the lumen output might of only increased by ~15%, the current most likely increased by at least double that due to the law of diminishing returns.

A ~30% safety factor while far from ideal should mean that the majority of the drivers should not have an issue but yes, a higher then normal failure rate is quite possible.

Far as them fixing it, they have not said anything to me in some time so I am not really involved anymore. replacing the FET’s on the drivers that are already made in bulk is not practical, it would be more efficient to make a whole new driver on an assembly line then to pay people to replace FET’s by hand.

[Aleister]

@Texas_Ace

@Aleister

Does Haikelite know about this? Do we know if they have plans to fix it?

I am saying “fix it” and not just “improve it” because if with just a spring bypass the FET dies, I don’t think that it will die only after spring bypass. It could die on flashlights with a little bit better soldered springs or with the randomly “better” springs of the batch or after 10 minutes use of an unmodified light, who knows.

I think that too many factors can add 5% power and too many factors can make some FETs 5% worse, that could be the 10% difference which kills the FET.

I wouldn’t use an elevator that has 100kg limit, if I was 98kg and at 102kg it falls and kills whoever is inside.

There is a big factor to keep in mind, while the lumen output might of only increased by ~15%, the current most likely increased by at least double that due to the law of diminishing returns.

A ~30% safety factor while far from ideal should mean that the majority of the drivers should not have an issue but yes, a higher then normal failure rate is quite possible.

Far as them fixing it, they have not said anything to me in some time so I am not really involved anymore. replacing the FET’s on the drivers that are already made in bulk is not practical, it would be more efficient to make a whole new driver on an assembly line then to pay people to replace FET’s by hand.

Thank you TA, that makes sense.

[Lexel]

It can happen that a bad solder connection on thermal pad kills your MOSFET
basically the SIR800 is thermally at its limit on the driver PCB, bridging springs and putting fresh cells in a hot light can get it to thermall runaway

There are basically 2 factors that generate heat in a MOSFET, conduction and switching losses

1. conduction losses, as simple to understand as a resistor

BSC009NE2LS5IATMA1
lateste Infineon MOSFETS with Optimos-5 technology have 1-1.5mOhms with relative low switching losses (20nC@4.5V)
https://www.mouser.de/ProductDetail/Infineon-Technologies/BSC009NE2LS5IATMA1 (look out for the excact type there are differences in Gate charge)
the suggested from MikeC I am and Intl-Outdoor are using for quite a while has 1.2mOhm at 3.5V gate voltage at 25° Tj

so as they do n ot stay cool lets add about 40% to get to Tj=125°C worst case
So 1.68mOhm@30A= 1.5W thermal loss

SIR800DP
https://www.mouser.de/ProductDetail/Vishay-Siliconix/SIR800DP-T1-GE3?qs=sGAEpiMZZMshyDBzk1%2FWi0mX49X1Ojk8bkorZS29FXY%3D
this one is nice and gives a graph for cool and hot junction resistance
3mOhm at 3.5V = 2.7W

I had recently working on a driver with a chineese company fake Attiny85s from a big chineese distributor,
maybe same problem with the MOSFET if HL is trying to source cheaper locally

on Turbo we can ignore switching losses, but they can add at very high PWM cycle

2. switching losses

to expalin simple between on and off the MOSFET transits slowly from low resistance to very high
in that short time the increased voltage drop creates heat
There are various models to calculate those switching losses, some more simple use the Gate charge and voltage to estimate a rough value
For Synchronous buck or boost converters some companies support more sophisticated formulas or even programs that calculate it (On Semiconductor, TI, Infineon, Nexperia)

to keep it simple the faster it switches and the less “dyanic reesistance” the gate has the fewer losses
also the Gate resistance ghas a role, the smaller the better

BSC009NE2LS5IATMA1
rise time 6ns
fall time 4ns
Gate charge 20nC
Gate resistance 1Ohm
0,53W switching losses at 22kHz, even at 99% PWM cycle

SIR800DP
rise time 10ns
fall time 8ns
Gate charge 41nC
Gate resistance 1.2Ohm
0,9W switching losses, at 22kHz, even at 99% PWM cycle

Overall losses when ramped to 95%
BSC009NE2LS5IATMA1 1,87W
SIR800DP 3.34W

[mikelights]

interested in the 70.2 version

[Lexel]

@ZozzV6

Yes it has burnt smell. I made a video of the behaviour.
And opeled it up. The fet burned. I don’t know but the driver has two places for fet. Does haikelite cut corners and used one instead of two? TA designed it to use two because the high current or not?

I did not find any datasheet of this manufacturer by googleing the markings.

this MOSFET looks faked
the triangle is all sides symmetrical while all SIRS I had have 2 longer sides so its as high as the letters
batch numbers went from T to W on mine, not sure why they got L marking does not make sense

to verify this it makes only sense to crack an actual production R800 open and compare the inner structures

original here on my drivers 17 months ago

404 and 800 13 months ago

404 9 months ago

[Sky17]

interested in the 70.2

[LichtAn]

Placed my order of NW XHP70.2 in silver a few days ago.

[Shaun]

Interested XHP70.2 CW in Silver thanks

[freeme (youtube.com/@1thedeals)]

Thanks pal! :BEER:

@LichtAn

Placed my order of NW XHP70.2 in silver a few days ago.

[TheShadowGuy]

I recently got in my MT09R. Kind of an odd issue though… One of the posts on the tailcap fell off. I don’t have a soldering iron or experience to secure it more than press fitting (which is how I managed to test the light although none of my batteries fit properly and I couldn’t find my magnets). I’ll be able to more thoroughly test the light once I sort out my battery situation, but how bad would it be to run the light with that post not being properly secured?

[Texas_Ace]

It will work without the post but it is dangerous since you could put the tail cap on the wrong way.

You could just glue the post in place if all else fails.

[TheShadowGuy]

So gluing it should be fine? I’ll do that then. Thanks TA!

[Texas_Ace]

@TheShadowGuy

So gluing it should be fine? I’ll do that then. Thanks TA!

Yes, there is no electrical connection to the posts so glue would be fine.

[Lexel]

2 of the 6 HL I modded had that issue, seems their soldering is not pretty good

hot air gun also works soldering those

[TheAuditor]

Just got mine and the tailcap spring plate spins, and even if the centre screw is fully tightened it does not stop spinning. It makes things tricky with getting the tailcap lined up with the batteries. I will have to glue it I guess. It does not give me any confidence in this light especially given the history. It will go on the ‘handle with caution’ shelf……

[hIKARInoob]

It’s supposed to spin.

[Texas_Ace]

@TheAuditor

Just got mine and the tailcap spring plate spins, and even if the centre screw is fully tightened it does not stop spinning. It makes things tricky with getting the tailcap lined up with the batteries. I will have to glue it I guess. It does not give me any confidence in this light especially given the history. It will go on the ‘handle with caution’ shelf……

That is exactly how it is supposed to work, if it did not spin it you would not be able to screw on the tailcap.

I hold the light with the big hole on the bottom and the big pin will generally rotate to the bottom anyways making alignment fairly simple.

[TheAuditor]

So….you are saying I shouldn’t glue it then? Cos that would be bad.

[Texas_Ace]

@TheAuditor

So….you are saying I shouldn’t glue it then? Cos that would be bad.

Correct, do NOT glue the tailcap PCB so it can not spin. That will ruin the light and make it unusable.