Last night, stock light, looking down the road-under-construction in front of our houseâŚ
This afternoon, broke in through the Blue LoctiteâŚ
A look at the tail cap with the copper disc replacing the pcbâŚ
The business end, showing the new Samsung LH351D 5000K 80 CRI with the dome left onâŚ
FWIW, once the loctite was defeated removal of the driver was easy. De-soldered the emitter leads then ran a small jewelers screwdriver alongside the black wire to the driver, couple of bumps on the screwdriver and the driver was free.
Finish is great
Threads are great
Reflector is great
AR coating is great
NW - bordering WW - is great, same as on Big Brother.
Short tube is great
Throw is great - especially for its size.
.
Packaging was also great: light in foam in a Lumintop box, that box wrapped with bubblefoam put in a plain box, with plastic over it to protect against moisture!!
Looks like the centering ring and reflector are indeed tightly together. Same as the led in the centering ring.
Also, even if there was an o-ring it wouldnât prevent it from spinning against the glass. Rubber will have much more âgripâ.
Normally the glass will spin against the reflector or the reflector will spin against the centering ring to prevents this from happening.
Well, the bezel isnât glued in my light, maybe just luck?
Anyhow, I did some tests today, using a 3 year old Efest purple INR2500 (I think the 2500 LG cell is in there).
So, not the latest and greatest cell there is but still!
Measured at 10m for easy calculations using my cheap LX1330B luxmeter I got:
At start @ turbo (double click) 135Kcd
After approx. 30 seconds 130Kcd
After 30 seconds at maximum ramping 78Kcd.
Mind you, using what is certainly not the best cell and my light is âNWâ, but I would rather say itâs WW (same as with my GT).
It could very well be that using a truly CW led it does better.
The light gets quite hot very quickly so it looks like the heat transfer is good as well.
Itâs not âyellowâ at all, just very NW
The nice thing about Creeâs âflat dome / HIâ leds is that you have no awfully discolored corona and the tint difference between
spot, corona and spill is much less apparent then with the normal cree leds.
My guess is that the XPL HI use is a bit below 4000K but maybe member Maukka can do a real color/CRI test?
.
It gets quite hot quickly but (luckily) the build in temperature step down steps in, in time.
The comprehensive manual lets you program the step down as well but I like it the way it is.
The only thing I turned of is the green light under the switch constantly glowing.
.
Cheers
Nico
Got my GT-mini (NW) and it is a really nice well done light, even nice for actual use!
The beam is great, as perfect as can be achieved by a medium size smooth reflector and a XP-L Hi, perfect centering and focus, very nice distinct small hotspot with useful corona, no apparent tint shifts. Just the center of the hotspot shows some yellow, a common flaw of the XP-L Hi, has nothing to do with the quality of reflector or host (some leds cause it, other leds donât, never got it explained by anyone)
The colour temperature I measured 3950K for both hotspot and spill, the hotspot a littlebit above the BBL, the spill on top of the BBL. So at least my copy is pretty exact 4000K.
If I could change anything, I would improve the feel of the switch, it is ok enough but a bit mushy. And a flat bezel from SS of course.