Sexy is in the eye of the beholder - the word that comes to mind for me is “fugly”. But that’s why with so many choices we can find our own best all-round light
I tend to avoid pipe bombs, you know, cheap built in charger’s in a flashlight.
A light can either light up the whole backyard or it can throw to the neighbors down the road, seldom does one do both. Flood or throw, it’s typically an either/or scenario. Fit in a pocket? Why? Lose something in there? Belt scabbards carry lights of all sizes, some more easily than others. I wouldn’t think having a light in a pocket would be such a great idea, keeps the battery right at 100º instead of a “cool dry place”. Also too easy to accidentally have one turn on in the pocket and uh, scramble eggs?
shirnask summed it up pretty well, luckily there are a lot of options so we can find our own parameter. Me? I really like the $11 Eagle Eye X6 host, built up in any one of the dozens of ways I’ve built them.
Besides, for it to be sexy it has to have a lot of Titanium …
But not all humans wear belts
Also, if I would wear a belt - I don’t like stuff to be attached to that.
A light must fit in my pocket - but luckily I don’t wear tight jeans and can fit pretty much anything inside my pockets, even a SkyRay King. So a single 26650 light is no problem.
I remember seeing comparsion-shots of the beams D4 vs. D4S - where can I find them again?
The MR70 is far from my fave light though, if I could have just 4 it’d be Emisar D4, DX80, X80-GT and MF04. If I had to have 1 light then the MR70 would serve me well in all scenarios other than 250m+ search and rescue.
The included 5500mah battery gives nice runtimes too.
The MR70 also has a red location beacon light on the button that can be enabled/disabled with ease.
It even has double springs for less resistance!
The fact the front light is cool white and side light is warm white really tickles my balls.
I picked mine up for $60, at that price all it needs for me is a 1 lumen Moonlight mode, trit holes and it’d be perfection.
I have finished the D4S Aux board and tested Generation 3 lighted tail switch board which utilizes the new technology with battery indication
Current draw for the ICs and resistors on it is about 0.05mA
Still impossible to finish the design if noone can tell me the mounting screw distance from center, counting pixels on pictures I get 10-10.35mm
red color 3x for LVP warning
just used 4 different colors to show any color combination is possible
Here my tail board Gen 3, function identical to the D4S aux board
switched to 2. red channel on low battery
on LVP shuts down all LEDs with an idle current bwelow 0.05mA
The MR70 looks interesting, with its side flood light and power bank functions. It looks like its beam is only about as throwy as a D4 though, and it only comes in cool white. I’m curious how its interface works, so I might look that up to see how they handled two independent LEDs from one button.
At a glance, here’s what stands out about them as compared to each other.
MR70:
Works as a USB power bank
Has a side flood light
3-4 output levels (low/med/high and timed turbo)
Strobe and SOS modes
Lighted button indicates battery status
D4S:
Smaller
Has lower low modes and higher high modes
Quite a bit more throw
Comes in a variety of host colors and emitter tints
Smooth or stepped configurable ramping from sub-lumen to full power
Adjustable momentary and beacon modes, plus voltage and temperature modes
Can be used for some tasks while locked
More mod-friendly for hardware or firmware changes
Personally, the mode I use the most on pretty much any light is about 5-10 lm out the front, ideally in neutral white with decent CRI. After that, my most-used mode is moon, at about 0.2 or 0.3 lm.
The Emisar lights give me exactly what I want there, with immediate access to both from off. However, the Rofis light doesn’t even have those levels. So it’s a clear choice for me.
I design my boards without undersized viases/smaller distanced between traces, very thin traces ect.,
which increses the production costs on chineese fabs, this makes it often more challenging to get it fit
First step without trimmers 32mm
33mm diameter with potentiometers and 3 separate channels
Lexel, are you looking for the smaller 4 holes in the 33mm MCPCB? I don’t have the D4S yet but I do have the boards and I do have a working X6 using this board. About to head to bed tonight but I can get measurements on the inside ring of 4 small holes if that’s what you’re looking for…. I get 20.0mm across center to center, so 10mm from center of board to center of the small inner circle of holes.
I should point out that this is using a set of cheap plastic calipers’, my good ones are out in the shop on the lathe…