Emisar D4S review

2377 posts / 0 new
Last post
Lexel
Lexel's picture
Offline
Last seen: 18 hours 15 min ago
Joined: 11/01/2016 - 08:00
Posts: 5478
Location: Germany

I have finished the D4S Aux board and tested Generation 3 lighted tail switch board which utilizes the new technology with battery indication
Current draw for the ICs and resistors on it is about 0.05mA

Still impossible to finish the design if noone can tell me the mounting screw distance from center, counting pixels on pictures I get 10-10.35mm

red color 3x for LVP warning
just used 4 different colors to show any color combination is possible

Here my tail board Gen 3, function identical to the D4S aux board
switched to 2. red channel on low battery
on LVP shuts down all LEDs with an idle current bwelow 0.05mA

ToyKeeper
ToyKeeper's picture
Offline
Last seen: 3 hours 43 min ago
Joined: 01/12/2013 - 14:40
Posts: 9993
Location: (469219) 2016 HO3
DB Custom wrote:
KG_Tuning wrote:
Arguably the best all-round light on the market is a 26650, the Rofis MR70. They’ve just brought out a 21700 version that doesn’t tickle my balls.

If argument dictates that the Rofis MR70 is the best all-round light on the market I need to quit. That light is very weak looking in my personal opinion, looks like a girl would use it for lighting up the night in a completely different way.

Dale clearly hasn’t shopped for lady toys. Silly

The MR70 looks interesting, with its side flood light and power bank functions. It looks like its beam is only about as throwy as a D4 though, and it only comes in cool white. I’m curious how its interface works, so I might look that up to see how they handled two independent LEDs from one button.

At a glance, here’s what stands out about them as compared to each other.

MR70:

  • Works as a USB power bank
  • Has a side flood light
  • 3-4 output levels (low/med/high and timed turbo)
  • Strobe and SOS modes
  • Lighted button indicates battery status

D4S:

  • Smaller
  • Has lower low modes and higher high modes
  • Quite a bit more throw
  • Comes in a variety of host colors and emitter tints
  • Smooth or stepped configurable ramping from sub-lumen to full power
  • Adjustable momentary and beacon modes, plus voltage and temperature modes
  • Can be used for some tasks while locked
  • More mod-friendly for hardware or firmware changes
  • Front-facing aux LEDs
  • Optional tail magnet
  • Lower price

Alan From New York
Offline
Last seen: 6 months 2 weeks ago
Joined: 05/03/2018 - 16:15
Posts: 10
Location: Tamaqua, Pennsylvania

Looks worth having. Not sure about the MR70.

ToyKeeper
ToyKeeper's picture
Offline
Last seen: 3 hours 43 min ago
Joined: 01/12/2013 - 14:40
Posts: 9993
Location: (469219) 2016 HO3

Personally, the mode I use the most on pretty much any light is about 5-10 lm out the front, ideally in neutral white with decent CRI. After that, my most-used mode is moon, at about 0.2 or 0.3 lm.

The Emisar lights give me exactly what I want there, with immediate access to both from off. However, the Rofis light doesn’t even have those levels. So it’s a clear choice for me.

But YMMV. Different strokes for different folks.

shirnask
shirnask's picture
Offline
Last seen: 1 hour 3 min ago
Joined: 03/21/2016 - 23:58
Posts: 1033
Location: Louisiana
Thumbs Up
D4rka2nx
Offline
Last seen: 1 day 14 hours ago
Joined: 07/31/2018 - 11:36
Posts: 16
Location: Florida

I’m between this or the Q8, decisions decisions.

shirnask
shirnask's picture
Offline
Last seen: 1 hour 3 min ago
Joined: 03/21/2016 - 23:58
Posts: 1033
Location: Louisiana
D4rka2nx wrote:
I’m between this or the Q8, decisions decisions.

You already know the best choice – BOTH!

Newlumen
Newlumen's picture
Offline
Last seen: 9 hours 29 min ago
Joined: 05/27/2017 - 00:19
Posts: 2087
Location: United states
D4rka2nx wrote:
I’m between this or the Q8, decisions decisions.

D4s..

Lexel
Lexel's picture
Offline
Last seen: 18 hours 15 min ago
Joined: 11/01/2016 - 08:00
Posts: 5478
Location: Germany

D4 and PL47 boards were the first 2


I design my boards without undersized viases/smaller distanced between traces, very thin traces ect.,
which increses the production costs on chineese fabs, this makes it often more challenging to get it fit

First step without trimmers 32mm

33mm diameter with potentiometers and 3 separate channels

goshdogit
goshdogit's picture
Offline
Last seen: 5 hours 9 min ago
Joined: 12/03/2015 - 21:28
Posts: 1026

Nice work, Lexel! Thumbs Up

Those boards are beautiful, even without power applied!

DB Custom
DB Custom's picture
Offline
Last seen: 8 hours 24 min ago
Joined: 01/13/2013 - 22:28
Posts: 20324
Location: Heart of Texas

Lexel, are you looking for the smaller 4 holes in the 33mm MCPCB? I don’t have the D4S yet but I do have the boards and I do have a working X6 using this board. About to head to bed tonight but I can get measurements on the inside ring of 4 small holes if that’s what you’re looking for…. I get 20.0mm across center to center, so 10mm from center of board to center of the small inner circle of holes.

I should point out that this is using a set of cheap plastic calipers’, my good ones are out in the shop on the lathe…

Fab1
Offline
Last seen: 1 year 2 months ago
Joined: 08/02/2018 - 16:40
Posts: 14
Location: UK

PBWilson wrote:
Fab1 wrote:

That’s fine Deuce Light enjoy your get minicool

CAN ANYONE ELSE CHIME IN AND ANSWER IF THE SHOCKLI  BUTTON TOPS BATTERIES ARE A BAD IDEA OR WONT WORK AS WELL AS THE FLAT TOP ONES FOR THE D4S??

Richard at Mountain Electronics suggests two button-top batteries (one being the Shockli) for the D4S. The pre-order page says that the maximum battery length for the D4S is 69mm and the Shockli is 66.8mm according to his site. Another button-top cell he recommends is 67.8mm and in his words, "Only batteries on the recommended list are guaranteed to work." If he is selling them in conjunction with the D4S, I'd bet they'd work. Of course he's out of stock at the moment. Seems that there was a lot of recent 26650 buying activity. I'm looking at you SC26!

 

Great stuff PBWilson appreciate the information and response. I may just have to get the shockli button tops thenlaughing

Micmania
Micmania's picture
Offline
Last seen: 4 weeks 13 hours ago
Joined: 12/11/2017 - 15:28
Posts: 69
Location: Germany

Nice Job Lexel … Thumbs Up

But why do I read there PL47 and Fireflies on the one design … ?

Can you explain me please ‘cause I’m thinkin’ about to get a second ROT66 (in 4000K HI Crying ) but …

… maybe via PM ?

freeme
freeme's picture
Offline
Last seen: 2 hours 2 min ago
Joined: 11/14/2013 - 22:00
Posts: 7950

I saw someone posted D4S with red optics backlight? I only see cyan option at IOS.

©freemex1thedeals.com

dmsoule
Offline
Last seen: 5 hours 46 min ago
Joined: 08/27/2016 - 20:14
Posts: 203
Location: MN USA
freeme wrote:

I saw someone posted D4S with red optics backlight? I only see cyan option at IOS.


Nice, I’d order a second light if red was available.

huey18
Offline
Last seen: 1 year 2 months ago
Joined: 07/18/2018 - 15:03
Posts: 76

I was hoping Emisar would make a red backlight version. I am holding out until then.

L4M4
L4M4's picture
Offline
Last seen: 5 hours 21 min ago
Joined: 12/08/2013 - 13:43
Posts: 1310
Location: Germany

As far as I have understood, those color-LED boards will be sold seperately in different colours?

RollerBoySE
RollerBoySE's picture
Offline
Last seen: 2 hours 2 min ago
Joined: 12/13/2014 - 11:23
Posts: 1011
Location: Sweden
L4M4 wrote:
As far as I have understood, those color-LED boards will be sold seperately in different colours?

Why not make a RGB-version, so people can set their preferred color themselves?

Yokiamy
Yokiamy's picture
Offline
Last seen: 47 min 56 sec ago
Joined: 10/18/2016 - 15:47
Posts: 1955
Location: Netherlands
RollerBoySE wrote:
L4M4 wrote:
As far as I have understood, those color-LED boards will be sold seperately in different colours?

Why not make a RGB-version, so people can set their preferred color themselves?

+1

  BLF

DB Custom
DB Custom's picture
Offline
Last seen: 8 hours 24 min ago
Joined: 01/13/2013 - 22:28
Posts: 20324
Location: Heart of Texas

Ever notice how, when a manufacturer picks up the gauntlet and offers something new everyone screams MORE, you shoulda, you coulda, you oughta….. ?

DB Custom
DB Custom's picture
Offline
Last seen: 8 hours 24 min ago
Joined: 01/13/2013 - 22:28
Posts: 20324
Location: Heart of Texas

Thank you Hank, well done! Smile

will34
will34's picture
Offline
Last seen: 1 day 2 hours ago
Joined: 12/18/2012 - 00:12
Posts: 3621

Red backlight looks sweet, I’m going to hold until new color shows up.

AgentWhiteBread
Offline
Last seen: 3 days 19 hours ago
Joined: 04/18/2018 - 21:00
Posts: 95
Location: Kansas

Personally I would’ve preferred a green mimicking tritium but brighter, but blue is pretty too.

chinooker
chinooker's picture
Offline
Last seen: 7 hours 57 min ago
Joined: 12/16/2015 - 13:27
Posts: 1733
Location: mid USA left coast

I think the cyan will compliment the smooth green perfectly! Cool

charles lin
charles lin's picture
Offline
Last seen: 5 days 9 hours ago
Joined: 03/09/2016 - 17:08
Posts: 381
Location: SoCal, US

freeme wrote:

I saw someone posted D4S with red optics backlight? I only see cyan option at IOS.



Owner of this specific D4S said Hank custom made for him. However, when I e-mail Hank about the custom aux LEDs D4s, he replies “I’m afraid we are not able to offer such option.”
May it is just for China customer or for Hank’s group members only.
ToyKeeper
ToyKeeper's picture
Offline
Last seen: 3 hours 43 min ago
Joined: 01/12/2013 - 14:40
Posts: 9993
Location: (469219) 2016 HO3

The aux LED board uses some common cheap LEDs and they shouldn’t be incredibly difficult to swap out. It’ll be useful to have hot air or a wide solder tip for unsoldering the stock LEDs though.

It looks like it uses the same type of LEDs as several of the clock kits floating around lately. I don’t know what type they are, but they can put out a lot more light than what the D4S does with them.

radioshaq
Offline
Last seen: 7 hours 29 min ago
Joined: 11/06/2015 - 02:26
Posts: 312

ToyKeeper wrote:
Different strokes for different folks.

Sorry, are we still talking about lady toys?
joechina
Offline
Last seen: 1 day 9 hours ago
Joined: 03/05/2016 - 08:23
Posts: 1435
Location: Germany

ToyKeeper wrote:
The aux LED board uses some common cheap LEDs and they shouldn’t be incredibly difficult to swap out. It’ll be useful to have hot air or a wide solder tip for unsoldering the stock LEDs though.

Easiest way is to use two solder irons. Hold them on both ends and lift the led.

On the other hand it’s an excuse to get an hot air station Wink

ToyKeeper
ToyKeeper's picture
Offline
Last seen: 3 hours 43 min ago
Joined: 01/12/2013 - 14:40
Posts: 9993
Location: (469219) 2016 HO3

These LEDs don’t have much metal to grab onto, so I’m not sure the 2-iron method would work unless you have a third hand to grab the LED from the sides at the same time. That method works with resistors and capacitors, which typically have a metal surface to press the iron against, but I haven’t found these to work that way.

Putting them on the board is easy, but getting them off without destroying them is difficult.

This pic, when zoomed in, might show enough to explain why:
http://toykeeper.net/torches/emisar-d4s/full/mcpcb-off.jpg

scintillator
Offline
Last seen: 19 hours 48 min ago
Joined: 06/12/2014 - 10:11
Posts: 112

Solder wick might work!

Pages