It’s not “yellow” at all, just very NW
The nice thing about Cree’s “flat dome / HI” leds is that you have no awfully discolored corona and the tint difference between
spot, corona and spill is much less apparent then with the normal cree leds.
My guess is that the XPL HI use is a bit below 4000K but maybe member Maukka can do a real color/CRI test?
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It gets quite hot quickly but (luckily) the build in temperature step down steps in, in time.
The comprehensive manual lets you program the step down as well but I like it the way it is.
The only thing I turned of is the green light under the switch constantly glowing.
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Cheers
Nico
Got my GT-mini (NW) and it is a really nice well done light, even nice for actual use!
The beam is great, as perfect as can be achieved by a medium size smooth reflector and a XP-L Hi, perfect centering and focus, very nice distinct small hotspot with useful corona, no apparent tint shifts. Just the center of the hotspot shows some yellow, a common flaw of the XP-L Hi, has nothing to do with the quality of reflector or host (some leds cause it, other leds don’t, never got it explained by anyone)
The colour temperature I measured 3950K for both hotspot and spill, the hotspot a littlebit above the BBL, the spill on top of the BBL. So at least my copy is pretty exact 4000K.
If I could change anything, I would improve the feel of the switch, it is ok enough but a bit mushy. And a flat bezel from SS of course.
Hmm, fiddling with the light a bit more, and now I have switching problems, it seems that the switch does not make good contact, have to press several times to get the light on and off, and same for ramping. So possibly a mechanical thing. But it could be software too.
Maybe they didn’t get the press fit retaining ring pushed in all the way? Mine really works nicely, very reliable. The switch is mounted on the driver itself, the rubber boot is or should be in a fixed position relative to the switch, so if it’s acting weird it’s going to either be a loose press fit retaining ring or a loose switch on the driver. If your bezel isn’t glued that’s easy enough to find out and if you can get inside then you should be able to tell if the switch is mounted solidly on the driver.
Really odd how some are glued hard, some glued lightly, and some not glued at all. VEry strange. Mine had great gobs of Blue Loctite in the bezel, had to mount it in the 5” chuck on my lathe and use a pair of 16” channel locks to break it apart, even then it did not want to let go.
The dots line up fine. And the switch clicks fine as well, you feel a good click and you hear it too, the response to the click (or hold) is just not there, as if the contact surfaces inside the switch are very dirty or something. But I’m not going to solve this tonight, tomorrow there is another day!
Even after being removed the driver presses back into a snug fitting position, even after a few removals. So it at least doesn’t get all loose and floppy after the glue is broken at the driver shelf. And yes, there is that bit of like Elmer’s glue holding the driver in place, ears/tabs or not, the driver isn’t shifting around not even after being removed.
About the only difference I see is that the GT Mini has a bit tighter corona.
DrDevil, do you have a lux meter? Have you done a side by side candela measurement?
Seperate reports have shown they should be about 130kcd to 135kcd. It’s not like anyone could see that difference, but I was just curious to see both measured with the same meter and under the same conditions.