I’m extremely happy with it, my Nitecore Tube reads 45 lumens and my DX80 30,000 lumens.
On the Texas_Ace tube the Nitecore Tube didn’t register and my DX80 reads 20,000
My 6500k Convoy S2+ which to date I’ve seen Maukka send out 268-282 variants reads in that bracket!
The Cometa still reads under 300 Lumens though. Guess I’ve just got to deal with that. Tbh the TA tube isn’t far off, it just struggles with high power flooders. We could easily back that up by putting a calibrated X80 in it instead of a S2+ on mid mode.
You can’t use 1 light to make a system, I could fire a S2+ at a lux meter from 10m away and get a 270 lux reading to qualify as “270 lumens” to match Maukka’s calibration figure, now what does that meter read when a MF04 is fired at it from the same distance? Between the expected 1800-2400?… Hell no. You need all kinds of beams to calibrate a system and that’s what I’ve done.
It’s clear you still don’t understand the “integrating” part of integrating sphere nor the difference between candela and lumen. There is this thing called Google, you just type in the word and it tells you what it means. It really is that simple.
Have you even bothered to read this particular thread? Like from post #1? I get the feeling you haven’t. There is a lot of good info here.
I do like your videos and reviews, you seem a nice guy, but I guess this is enough!!
I don’t know and I don’t care about how much lumens my flashlights have, but I do understand that some members here really are interested in that measurements. Thanks for that and for the hard work all of you members do making good and accurate/approximate measurements, instead of just sticking to manufacturers’ lumens :+1:
Texas_Ace did his tube and sold it to you and to dozens of other people here. This thread is about his tube, not your Lightbox!
Please, stop posting here all the things you are doing with your lighbox as it has nothing to do with the thread anymore!
Start a new thread and stop taking advantage of others’ works, that you even bashed and claimed to be inaccurate before! There you can present your work, describe how you’ve done it, what are your measurements, concerns and methods, and identify the things you do!
There’s nothing more to see here. This is Texas_Ace BLF Calibrated Lumen tube thread!
With all due respect, please move on, and on a new thread you’ll have your spot :arrow_right:
That’s enough seeing derailed and blocked threads due to attitudes like this…
Sorry. I took it seriously when TA said he wanted to work with me on it. I just wanted to find a way for it to work whilst retaining, the sensor, some tube and diffusion.
If he wants to expand on it commercially I have no reservations!
lol. That’s exactly what I was thinking when I saw all his posts.
Like Djozz said, he should read up on these integrating sphere threads and understand how they work before spending so much time and typing so many posts that doesn’t contribute anything useful. Previously if he had read this thread before making up his assumptions and started attacking the TA tube, we wouldn’t have had so much drama. He even gave TA a negative feedback on his Ebay account based on nothing but his assumptions and misunderstanding. He said TA tube favors throw over flood but I just proved it’s not the case. Not to be rude, but he really should read all the data/info/experience from others before wasting more effort flooding this thread, which is supposed to be for the TA tube.
What you are showing now is not the TA tube. You should post in another thread.
Also you should really buy the Maukka calibration light set with the money TA refunded you. People here, including Maukka, explained why you don’t need high power monsters to calibrate your sphere and these are adequate. You just need to read.
Exactly as instructed, with the smallest ring that fits the Q8 head. Maukka measured 4716 FL1 lumens with his stock Q8 using 30Qs, so 3330 for yours seems rather low. That’s also a huge drop for 30 seconds; do you have the thermal throttling set really conservatively?
Last night I took apart my Q8, made sure everything was spotless, and resoldered the MCPCB leads on both ends. After putting it back together I got exactly the same result in the TA tube.
4300 lumens at turn on seems plausible. My measurements on the stock Q8 ranged from 4700 to 5200 depending on battery. At 30 seconds it depends on the thermal limit set in the config.
Bypass the springs, solder blob some Sony VTC5D’s charge them up to 4.25 and you’ll probably hit 10,000 lumen maybe more, or we’ll never hear from you again?
You slackers…… With my ‘stock’ Q8 I got 16,132.516 Lumens using my ’Bathroom Mirror & Fixture Bounce All Around Test’. :+1:
That’s BMFBAAT for short……
It goes liks this.
1. Place light sensor in a zip lock sandwich bag. This has 2 purposes…. to difuse light & hopefully waterproof the sensor in case it slips from it’s mounting position…
2. Open toilet lid… both lid & seat. Mount baggie enclosed light sensor on back wall of toilet basin right above the waterline.
3. Turn on Q8. Shine into BR Mirror at pre-calculated precise proper angle.
4. Light bounces into BR Sink on to Overhead light fixture.
5. From Light fixture back to sink, then up to mirror & over to tub.
6. Then back up to light fixture & into toilet basin
7. The light sensor, covered by a baggie; is waiting to record the lumen number of this highly recommended method.
:+1:
