I don’t understand why they push the “adamant” glass breaker/self protection thing and then have “NO” knurling at all on the body.
Contradiction in form and function.
Luckily the glass breaker simply unscrews (well it comes separately in the box, so you can simply not install it at all).
The body I have zero explanations for, it is ugly and I told them exactly that as soon as I saw it. The body on the prototype had some nice finger groves that looked pretty good actually.
Yes, it uses the same optic so it will have the same beam. The only change to the beam is a slightly thicker bezel for some reason so thus a little lower OTF lumens. Although on the plus side the tint shift on the XP-G3 seems to be a little reduced as well.
The body I have zero explanations for, it is ugly and I told them exactly that as soon as I saw it. The body on the prototype had some nice finger groves that looked pretty good actually.
Weird. Just out of curiosity, do you happen to have a photo of the prototype we could see?
Assuming that wouldn’t violate any rights or agreements, of course – I’m not sure what the rules would be for something like that.
The body I have zero explanations for, it is ugly and I told them exactly that as soon as I saw it. The body on the prototype had some nice finger groves that looked pretty good actually.
Weird. Just out of curiosity, do you happen to have a photo of the prototype we could see?
Assuming that wouldn’t violate any rights or agreements, of course – I’m not sure what the rules would be for something like that.
Yeah, I am not sure on the rules for that as well in this case. The light is released to the public now and they didn’t tell me to not share it but it also looks a lot different.
Everything is the same except the battery tube. Instead of a blank tube the prototype was a smooth finish with 3 gentle finger indention’s cut on 3 sides. Gave it a classy yet simple look.
[…] The light is released to the public now and they didn’t tell me to not share it but it also looks a lot different.
Everything is the same except the battery tube. Instead of a blank tube the prototype was a smooth finish with 3 gentle finger indention’s cut on 3 sides. Gave it a classy yet simple look.
It is still in pre-order, T_A, so I don’t know if it qualifies as being released to the public! Isn’t it better to hold on a bit, just to avoid some “issues” with BG?
I will probably not get this light, mostly due to things not related to specs or aspect, but looking at it…the S42 was indeed more pleasant to the eye
Shaving those edges on the bezel would help a bit, I guess
Yeah, I am not sure on the rules for that as well in this case. The light is released to the public now and they didn’t tell me to not share it but it also looks a lot different.
Everything is the same except the battery tube. Instead of a blank tube the prototype was a smooth finish with 3 gentle finger indention’s cut on 3 sides. Gave it a classy yet simple look.
Got it, thank you Probably best not to chance the photo. Sounds interesting, though.
Out of curiosity, if the battery tube on the S43 was changed, would that be the only cosmetic issue most of you have with the light?
I think it might be too late for the S43 to be changed but figure I could give it one last try.
The tailcap striker is already removable, makes the tailcap a bit taller then needed but that is about it.
The bezel is the only other real complaint I see here, how big of a deal is it? it is not that aggressive and is not that bad.
I got permission to post the prototype light I got, these are pictures from Mateminco, the ano looks a lot better on mine in real life then the picture look.
I think it is pretty good looking in the real world, the picture do not do it justice. if I have time I might try to get one of mine.
Btw, TA, looking at the prototype, did Astrolux ever properly fix the optics issue that was in the S41? So the optic does not damage the leds but still the leds are in proper focus? (in the S41 they fixed one problem by creating the other).
I bought it because it is an ugly flashlight with a great UI – it will take all the bangs and scrapes that I can’t bring myself to have happen to my “pretty” lights
I might get it just for the heck of it. Roll the dice. If I don’t like it, I can always give it away. At the very least it does have a nice UI. It’s probably the only Narsil base light that has built-in charging from the factory.
I don’t know, I’ll keep thinking about it.
—
Texas Ace Lumen Tube calibrated with Maukka lights
Btw, TA, looking at the prototype, did Astrolux ever properly fix the optics issue that was in the S41? So the optic does not damage the leds but still the leds are in proper focus? (in the S41 they fixed one problem by creating the other).
I am not sure what the “proper fix” is as I was not ever really aware of the issue but I did not notice any issues with the optics in the prototypes.
The optic has alignment pins for the mcpcb and the optic itself sits on a ledge cut into the head.
Texas_Ace, does the ramping go all the way to Turbo or does it stop short and you have to double click to get Turbo?
It stops short and uses a double click to turbo. Thus far there has been an vast majority approval of this method both from the feedback I have gotten directly and from the manufactures.
Naturally some prefer the ramp go all the way to turbo and there is nothing wrong with that but for Joe public I feel that the ramp stopping short is the better option.
Texas_Ace, does the ramping go all the way to Turbo or does it stop short and you have to double click to get Turbo?
It stops short and uses a double click to turbo. Thus far there has been an vast majority approval of this method both from the feedback I have gotten directly and from the manufactures.
Naturally some prefer the ramp go all the way to turbo and there is nothing wrong with that but for Joe public I feel that the ramp stopping short is the better option.
About where does it stop, 1000 lumen?
—
Texas Ace Lumen Tube calibrated with Maukka lights
I modded both my S42 with lexel’s driver…I think that’s still the better way to go. It has better components and better looking of course. I converted one into a triple, and plan on doing the same thing to the other one as well.
Texas_Ace, does the ramping go all the way to Turbo or does it stop short and you have to double click to get Turbo?
It stops short and uses a double click to turbo. Thus far there has been an vast majority approval of this method both from the feedback I have gotten directly and from the manufactures.
Naturally some prefer the ramp go all the way to turbo and there is nothing wrong with that but for Joe public I feel that the ramp stopping short is the better option.
About where does it stop, 1000 lumen?
Yes, around ~55-60% output generally. Anything less then this and the step up to turbo is virtually un-noticeable like in the first GT.
I like the finger grooves on the battery tube and think it makes the light look better. And I can live with the bezel if that’s what is going to ship. Not that big of a deal to me.
Lock/Unlocked Function:
With the breathing light on the button is unlocked.Click the button at least 1.5seconds when flashlight is off,then the breathing light will turn off and the switch is locked.To activate the breathing light,click the button 1.5seconds again.
Is this wrong stuff from the old S42?
I see problems:
You can’t ramp from off, it shuts off after 1.5 seconds.
You have two electronic lock outs: NarsilM and breathing light.
@Texas Ace
Can you test this on the prototype?
I hope Banggood wrote BS
I don’t understand why they push the “adamant” glass breaker/self protection thing and then have “NO” knurling at all on the body.
Contradiction in form and function.
Can we expect the same beam pattern as the earlier S42?
Texas Ace Lumen Tube calibrated with Maukka lights
Click this to go to signature links.
Luckily the glass breaker simply unscrews (well it comes separately in the box, so you can simply not install it at all).
The body I have zero explanations for, it is ugly and I told them exactly that as soon as I saw it. The body on the prototype had some nice finger groves that looked pretty good actually.
Texas Avenger Driver Series
My LED Test series - XP-L2 V5 - Nichia 219C 90+ CRI - Latticebright "XM-L" - XHP35 & PWM efficiency - XHP50 - XP-L V5 - XM-L2 U2 - XP-G3 S5 - XP-L HI V2 - Oslon Square & direct comparison to Djozz tests - Nichia 319A - Nichia 219B 9080 CRI - Nichia 219C D320 - Nichia 229AT - XHP70.2 P2 - XHP50.2 J4 - Samsung LH351D
Easy comparison tool for all my LED tests
Yes, it uses the same optic so it will have the same beam. The only change to the beam is a slightly thicker bezel for some reason so thus a little lower OTF lumens. Although on the plus side the tint shift on the XP-G3 seems to be a little reduced as well.
Texas Avenger Driver Series
My LED Test series - XP-L2 V5 - Nichia 219C 90+ CRI - Latticebright "XM-L" - XHP35 & PWM efficiency - XHP50 - XP-L V5 - XM-L2 U2 - XP-G3 S5 - XP-L HI V2 - Oslon Square & direct comparison to Djozz tests - Nichia 319A - Nichia 219B 9080 CRI - Nichia 219C D320 - Nichia 229AT - XHP70.2 P2 - XHP50.2 J4 - Samsung LH351D
Easy comparison tool for all my LED tests
Wait, do you think the bezel is swappable?
That would be really nice so I could swap in the S42’s bezel in and get a better light.
My very own high current Beryllium Copper springs Gen 3:
http://budgetlightforum.com/node/67401
Liitokala Aliexpress Stores Battery Fraud: http://budgetlightforum.com/node/60547
Yes, they appear to be swappable. Although holding them next to each other the difference is less then I first thought, maybe 0.5mm difference.
I seem to of forgotten how much the S42 bezel covered of the optic as I no longer have one (I used my S41 to swap the bezel)
Texas Avenger Driver Series
My LED Test series - XP-L2 V5 - Nichia 219C 90+ CRI - Latticebright "XM-L" - XHP35 & PWM efficiency - XHP50 - XP-L V5 - XM-L2 U2 - XP-G3 S5 - XP-L HI V2 - Oslon Square & direct comparison to Djozz tests - Nichia 319A - Nichia 219B 9080 CRI - Nichia 219C D320 - Nichia 229AT - XHP70.2 P2 - XHP50.2 J4 - Samsung LH351D
Easy comparison tool for all my LED tests
Weird. Just out of curiosity, do you happen to have a photo of the prototype we could see?
Assuming that wouldn’t violate any rights or agreements, of course – I’m not sure what the rules would be for something like that.
Yeah, I am not sure on the rules for that as well in this case. The light is released to the public now and they didn’t tell me to not share it but it also looks a lot different.
Everything is the same except the battery tube. Instead of a blank tube the prototype was a smooth finish with 3 gentle finger indention’s cut on 3 sides. Gave it a classy yet simple look.
Texas Avenger Driver Series
My LED Test series - XP-L2 V5 - Nichia 219C 90+ CRI - Latticebright "XM-L" - XHP35 & PWM efficiency - XHP50 - XP-L V5 - XM-L2 U2 - XP-G3 S5 - XP-L HI V2 - Oslon Square & direct comparison to Djozz tests - Nichia 319A - Nichia 219B 9080 CRI - Nichia 219C D320 - Nichia 229AT - XHP70.2 P2 - XHP50.2 J4 - Samsung LH351D
Easy comparison tool for all my LED tests
It is still in pre-order, T_A, so I don’t know if it qualifies as being released to the public! Isn’t it better to hold on a bit, just to avoid some “issues” with BG?
I will probably not get this light, mostly due to things not related to specs or aspect, but looking at it…the S42 was indeed more pleasant to the eye

Shaving those edges on the bezel would help a bit, I guess
[REVIEWS] AMUTORCH: S3 / S3 vs 219c / AM30 / AX1 / VG10 /// SOFIRN: SF14 + SP10A / SP32A / SP10B /// NITEFOX: UT20 / ES10K / K3 /// ODEPRO: KL52 / B108 /// ACEBEAM: H20 / TK16 /// BLITZWOLF: BW-ET1 /// DQG: AA Slim Ti /// HC-LIGHTS: SS AAA /// XTAR: PB2 Charger /// OLIGHT: M2R Warrior /// WUBEN: TO10R / E05 / T70 / E10 /// ON THE ROAD: M1 / i3 / M3 Pro /// ROVYVON: A2 + A5R / E300S / A8 /// KLARUS: XT1C /// LUMINTOP: Tool AA V2.0 + Tool 25 /// LIVARNOLUX: 314791 /// SKILHUNT: M150
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GIVEAWAY: 1
If you already have an S42 you can swap the bezel if you desired or even the whole thing, pretty sure the battery tube can be swapped as well.
Sad that would be needed for a new light through.
Texas Avenger Driver Series
My LED Test series - XP-L2 V5 - Nichia 219C 90+ CRI - Latticebright "XM-L" - XHP35 & PWM efficiency - XHP50 - XP-L V5 - XM-L2 U2 - XP-G3 S5 - XP-L HI V2 - Oslon Square & direct comparison to Djozz tests - Nichia 319A - Nichia 219B 9080 CRI - Nichia 219C D320 - Nichia 229AT - XHP70.2 P2 - XHP50.2 J4 - Samsung LH351D
Easy comparison tool for all my LED tests
Got it, thank you
Probably best not to chance the photo. Sounds interesting, though.
Out of curiosity, if the battery tube on the S43 was changed, would that be the only cosmetic issue most of you have with the light?
I think it might be too late for the S43 to be changed but figure I could give it one last try.
The tailcap striker is already removable, makes the tailcap a bit taller then needed but that is about it.
The bezel is the only other real complaint I see here, how big of a deal is it? it is not that aggressive and is not that bad.
I got permission to post the prototype light I got, these are pictures from Mateminco, the ano looks a lot better on mine in real life then the picture look.
I think it is pretty good looking in the real world, the picture do not do it justice. if I have time I might try to get one of mine.
Texas Avenger Driver Series
My LED Test series - XP-L2 V5 - Nichia 219C 90+ CRI - Latticebright "XM-L" - XHP35 & PWM efficiency - XHP50 - XP-L V5 - XM-L2 U2 - XP-G3 S5 - XP-L HI V2 - Oslon Square & direct comparison to Djozz tests - Nichia 319A - Nichia 219B 9080 CRI - Nichia 219C D320 - Nichia 229AT - XHP70.2 P2 - XHP50.2 J4 - Samsung LH351D
Easy comparison tool for all my LED tests
Hey TA
Is it possible to modify the circuit to get 1A charging or it has to be done through the driver code?
I mainly use 18650 and prefer 1A charging.
Nico -.-
He mentioned you have to swap a resistor to boost the charge current.
Texas Ace Lumen Tube calibrated with Maukka lights
Click this to go to signature links.
Yes, there is a resistor that can be swapped to raise the current. No firmware involved as it is completely separate from the main driver.
Texas Avenger Driver Series
My LED Test series - XP-L2 V5 - Nichia 219C 90+ CRI - Latticebright "XM-L" - XHP35 & PWM efficiency - XHP50 - XP-L V5 - XM-L2 U2 - XP-G3 S5 - XP-L HI V2 - Oslon Square & direct comparison to Djozz tests - Nichia 319A - Nichia 219B 9080 CRI - Nichia 219C D320 - Nichia 229AT - XHP70.2 P2 - XHP50.2 J4 - Samsung LH351D
Easy comparison tool for all my LED tests
So what we have here is BLF-modder’s dream-internals (thanks TA
) in a flashlight that is too ugly to buy (thanks Astrolux
).
link to djozz tests
Btw, TA, looking at the prototype, did Astrolux ever properly fix the optics issue that was in the S41? So the optic does not damage the leds but still the leds are in proper focus? (in the S41 they fixed one problem by creating the other).
link to djozz tests
I bought it because it is an ugly flashlight with a great UI – it will take all the bangs and scrapes that I can’t bring myself to have happen to my “pretty” lights
I might get it just for the heck of it. Roll the dice. If I don’t like it, I can always give it away. At the very least it does have a nice UI. It’s probably the only Narsil base light that has built-in charging from the factory.
I don’t know, I’ll keep thinking about it.
Texas Ace Lumen Tube calibrated with Maukka lights
Click this to go to signature links.
Texas_Ace, does the ramping go all the way to Turbo or does it stop short and you have to double click to get Turbo?
Texas Ace Lumen Tube calibrated with Maukka lights
Click this to go to signature links.
I am not sure what the “proper fix” is as I was not ever really aware of the issue but I did not notice any issues with the optics in the prototypes.
The optic has alignment pins for the mcpcb and the optic itself sits on a ledge cut into the head.
Texas Avenger Driver Series
My LED Test series - XP-L2 V5 - Nichia 219C 90+ CRI - Latticebright "XM-L" - XHP35 & PWM efficiency - XHP50 - XP-L V5 - XM-L2 U2 - XP-G3 S5 - XP-L HI V2 - Oslon Square & direct comparison to Djozz tests - Nichia 319A - Nichia 219B 9080 CRI - Nichia 219C D320 - Nichia 229AT - XHP70.2 P2 - XHP50.2 J4 - Samsung LH351D
Easy comparison tool for all my LED tests
It stops short and uses a double click to turbo. Thus far there has been an vast majority approval of this method both from the feedback I have gotten directly and from the manufactures.
Naturally some prefer the ramp go all the way to turbo and there is nothing wrong with that but for Joe public I feel that the ramp stopping short is the better option.
Texas Avenger Driver Series
My LED Test series - XP-L2 V5 - Nichia 219C 90+ CRI - Latticebright "XM-L" - XHP35 & PWM efficiency - XHP50 - XP-L V5 - XM-L2 U2 - XP-G3 S5 - XP-L HI V2 - Oslon Square & direct comparison to Djozz tests - Nichia 319A - Nichia 219B 9080 CRI - Nichia 219C D320 - Nichia 229AT - XHP70.2 P2 - XHP50.2 J4 - Samsung LH351D
Easy comparison tool for all my LED tests
About where does it stop, 1000 lumen?
Texas Ace Lumen Tube calibrated with Maukka lights
Click this to go to signature links.
I modded both my S42 with lexel’s driver…I think that’s still the better way to go. It has better components and better looking of course. I converted one into a triple, and plan on doing the same thing to the other one as well.
Yes, around ~55-60% output generally. Anything less then this and the step up to turbo is virtually un-noticeable like in the first GT.
Texas Avenger Driver Series
My LED Test series - XP-L2 V5 - Nichia 219C 90+ CRI - Latticebright "XM-L" - XHP35 & PWM efficiency - XHP50 - XP-L V5 - XM-L2 U2 - XP-G3 S5 - XP-L HI V2 - Oslon Square & direct comparison to Djozz tests - Nichia 319A - Nichia 219B 9080 CRI - Nichia 219C D320 - Nichia 229AT - XHP70.2 P2 - XHP50.2 J4 - Samsung LH351D
Easy comparison tool for all my LED tests
I like the finger grooves on the battery tube and think it makes the light look better. And I can live with the bezel if that’s what is going to ship. Not that big of a deal to me.
Sadly the BG battery tube is there to stay as they have already been produced it seems.
Texas Avenger Driver Series
My LED Test series - XP-L2 V5 - Nichia 219C 90+ CRI - Latticebright "XM-L" - XHP35 & PWM efficiency - XHP50 - XP-L V5 - XM-L2 U2 - XP-G3 S5 - XP-L HI V2 - Oslon Square & direct comparison to Djozz tests - Nichia 319A - Nichia 219B 9080 CRI - Nichia 219C D320 - Nichia 229AT - XHP70.2 P2 - XHP50.2 J4 - Samsung LH351D
Easy comparison tool for all my LED tests
Are they going to make a stainless steel S43S version of this as the S41S and S42S?
Reviews: Sofirn SP40, YLP Panda 3R and Unicorn, Armytek Prime C1 Pro, Acebeam M50, Imalent MS18, Convoy M3, Nitecore TIP2, Imalent RT70, Wuben T70, Sofirn SP32A, Thorfire VG15S, Thorfire VG10S, Thorfire TG06S
Mods: Astrolux MF01-20K, Small sun T08 MT-G2, Eagle eye X6 triple XPL, Ultrafire F13 MT-G2, Convoy C8 XHP70, Solarstorm T3 triple XP-L HI
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That I do not know, if the S43 sells well I bet they would, with the current looks I am not sure if it will sell good enough for that though.
Texas Avenger Driver Series
My LED Test series - XP-L2 V5 - Nichia 219C 90+ CRI - Latticebright "XM-L" - XHP35 & PWM efficiency - XHP50 - XP-L V5 - XM-L2 U2 - XP-G3 S5 - XP-L HI V2 - Oslon Square & direct comparison to Djozz tests - Nichia 319A - Nichia 219B 9080 CRI - Nichia 219C D320 - Nichia 229AT - XHP70.2 P2 - XHP50.2 J4 - Samsung LH351D
Easy comparison tool for all my LED tests
I found this on the Banggood page
Is this wrong stuff from the old S42?
I see problems:
You can’t ramp from off, it shuts off after 1.5 seconds.
You have two electronic lock outs: NarsilM and breathing light.
@Texas Ace
Can you test this on the prototype?
I hope Banggood wrote BS
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