CRX says it true, just the way it is…
Forget who said it but it’s SO true… sometimes when you’re on the cutting edge you just gotta bleed a little.
CRX says it true, just the way it is…
Forget who said it but it’s SO true… sometimes when you’re on the cutting edge you just gotta bleed a little.
Installed one of Lexel’s D4S aux boards. I went with pink/purple and green for the main aux leds and then there are 3 red LEDs in the middle that indicate low voltage and finally off entirely for complete LVP.
A bit trickier than I expected but still managed to get it done without too much trouble.
Some observations:
Wow, Carnival time!
Very nice mod contactcr. :heart_eyes:
And just for Dale I think changing from red to white aux board probably gained like 25 lumens easy.
Lol, thanks for that contactcr, appreciate it. Back to the Highway Supplies Dept for that reflective white paint…
- yes the first version had not ideal holes for the main LED boards pads, fixed this on later boards which will be available soon, simply had no D4S to measure the right distance
- low mode can not work as its PWMed
- LVP and low battery warning with 3 red LEDs when outer 16 are shut off
Looks nice, like the purple :+1:
How many lumens these DOG FARTS capable to squeeze out in direct drive? I want to replace Nichia leds in a ROT66 for more output but maintain good CRI.
If I like them maybe use them in other multi emitter lights as well.
Took step one for a mod, inspired by the High CRI host discussion.
cool mod, zeroflow! Looking forward to the progress.
I need this for my D4S. Looks amazing!
Looks very interesting!
kiriba-ru C8TT triple heatsink head build
Since kiriba-ru’s C8TT head is so unique I wanted unique parts to go with it. I opted for the highest CRI and highest lumens I could manage. LED4Power’s parts were the obvious choice, constant current + FET + moon + temp + good UI. I don’t think either of these guys get enough credit for the awesome stuff they produce.
12 Amp Constant Current mode:
Direct Drive FET (pulling 28.xx Amps!!):
It’s nuts this thing can suck up almost 30 amps from a single 18650 and still be >90CRI light
Pictures:
Reflow prep station, triple check your datasheets for anode + cathode time, thaw some 63/37
I saw on the datasheet a 7” steel crepe pan was recommended. Yes I seasoned it, no I don’t use it for food. ($14 Amazon)
Too much solder paste, story of my life. Plz suck up a bunch when it gets to temp ::crossing fingers::
OK, I can work with that. Must be magic… For anyone questioning if you can do this. YOU CAN, it’s night and day obvious that it’s basically aligned and melted. Haven’t even touched it yet…
Remember how I said too much solder paste and anyone can do this? Everyone has to start somewhere, time to suck it up and cleanup your (solder) balls.
Time to check your work (fun fact, since LED4Power’s MosX boards have the FET on them this shouldn’t have worked. The modding gods must have left a little charge in the FET for me knowing I have no idea what i’m doing)
I wont bore you with my crappy soldering stories or trying to snake wires all over the place or mixing up FET and Temp wires but lets just say I got it done.
Time for the glamour shots:
will probably change this to a clear ano’d convoy tube some day
tint mixing is the new hotness, get on board. Inspired by maukka tests of two slightly above BBL LEDs mixing into a middle tint below BBL. Also, it just plain looks COOL in moon (<1lm)
showing off her glOw face
and last but not least, obligatory beam shot from a cell phone on auto (you’re welcome)
There is a slight donut which surprised me from a TIR optic. Considering how well everything else turned out, I can look past it. I’ll try a piece of DC-Fix when I get around to it but I suspect I will miss my precious lumens and take it out.
That is so nicely done contactcr! I wonder what that output is?
It would have been an insult to the fine resulting flashlight if you had shown the messy bit with the wire soldering
Btw, you could, instead of buying a clear C8, remove the anodisation with lye.
Thanks djozz. I posted the ouput just before the pictures. Still cant believe it reads over 28 amps at tail. I also ordered the 20 degree medium cute4 optic to see if it removes the hole. Forgot they make a few models.
Edit; realized u might be asking CCT. It feels a hair under below 5K just eyeballing it. I’ll show a 4k and 5k next to it and see
Edit2; it’s closest in tint to a XPL HI U6-4C 4200-4500K
I hoped for lumens, but not everyone has a contraption for measuring that. Based on your 28A tail current and counting in losses from the optic it must be over 5500 lumen
I have too many little projects, but since I have been given one of these C8 heads from Kirabu for checking out, it sounds like I will try to repeat your mod some day!
Ok, so I’m confused, again. How can LED4POWER’s 12A Constant Current driver deliver 28A at the tail?