d4buyer. Ok? Cant remember password.
unintended connection somewhere, allowing power to bypass the driver entirely. - how is it easy to fix? I am just an office worker, so i am trying to get answer, as hank is silent for over two months. Just got tired of nokia as a light.
Seems to me it was ToyKeeper that started the tint mixing thing with her Terminator.
I also did it years ago with a ridiculous Quad XHP-50 set up in a Lucky Sun D80. Very neat look, had to keep it reduced using 2 18350’s as with 2 18650’s it’d make the light too hot to hold in mere seconds.
This was one mighty fine little light. Got mine today and I’ve played some with it. Only problem I see is that it ramps very quickly down from high levels since it get hot.
I also read a thread on laser forum where a guy got a 1watt laser into his eye and got permanent damage. This sounds really scary and I got to think of dangers with powerful flashlights like this and kids. Is it safe to let my kiddo use this? She’s 4 and really liked this little light, told here to not touch the button on it and use it at the level I set for now and I’m watching all the time. Am I paranoid?
My nephew is 4 and is not allowed to touch my D4. His father does not let him touch his D4 either. He has his own little AA LED light that he uses and feels like it’s the same as ours.
Too much potential damage to skin, eyes, furniture, etc, in my humble opinion.
I would do 2+2, I doubt that you would see a difference with only one 3000K in the herd.
I love it, SST20 have a small die so you gain some throw compared with 219C or worse, LH351D.
I’ve tested both, and the SST20 are my favorites, because of the gain in throw.
The tint mix is really nice, but I already like both tints so it’s not really a surprise
Hmm, maybe not. I think I’m gonna try it though, mostly because I only have four Nichias to my name, 3 4000ks and a 3000k. There’s a fourth 4000k in my buddies H03 that I’m gonna swap for a LH351D next time I see him, but that won’t be for several weeks. I really want a nichia D4, the D4 was my first light that I got before I knew what tint I wanted, so it’s a 6500k xpl-hi, no gracias lol.
Some degree of trust is required, of course. People can’t even go outside without being exposed to something dangerous. I mean, some kids stare at the sun just because they can. So this is really something you have to determine on your own, based on how trustworthy your child is.
Almost any LED can cause eye damage if it’s running at more than a few milliamps. Staring at a modern LED is a lot like staring at the sun. And almost any battery can start a fire if the user shorts it to itself or something. So I can’t really say any flashlight is 100% safe.
A S2+ with a 3x7135 driver (or, even better, 1x7135 driver) is a lot harder to cause damage with. However, I’d suggest going even smaller if possible. Maybe something with a single AA or AAA Eneloop battery at first.
OTOH, a parent’s job isn’t to protect their child from the world, but rather, to help their child explore the world. If they make a mistake and start a fire or hurt themselves or something, it’s not necessarily a bad thing, as long as the damage isn’t permanent. It may help them learn caution. Making mistakes is one of the fastest ways to learn, as long as the mistakes aren’t too big to recover from.
TL;DR: It really depends on what kind of person your child is.
Hi TK & all. Looks like I’m getting sucked in to BLF again, at least for a little bit. Thanks for posting!
A:
I apologize in advance for anything I’ve missed in the thread - I’ve only hopped around in it some, there is a lot of good content.
@TK - Something from the OP confused me:
I saw in the OP that you’d improved this ~4.5mA figure in Anduril but I couldn’t find a post discussing the improvements or how they worked. I also saw your comment (“”#1570”:TK's Emisar D4 review - #1570 by ToyKeeper “) about how the light didn’t go into standby immediately and the next few messages between you and rizky_p explaining that the actual standby drain (as measured by rizky_p) is 24.5μA and that a project of your eliminates the delay.
I guess I’m asking for more information on the quiescent current / parasitic drain situation.
Do you know whether currently shipping lights have a firmware with low parasitic drain?
Was the move from 4.5mA down to 0.02mA purely a matter of firmware and/or changes in measurement strategy?
B:
I’m also interested in what’s needed (from a hardware standpoint) for a good implementation of something like Anduril, Narsil, or RampingIOS on an FET+1 driver. After reading about it I really want to order an Emisar D4 right away… but I’ve got a small handful of good momentary switch lights which need drivers and I want to rehab at least a couple of those before buying even MORE flashlights. I have an embarrassing number of non-working flashlights.
As many of you are probably aware I am VERY out of the loop.
I’ve read that a low-value resistor has been added to FET drivers in order to reduce ringing and keep the MCUs from rebooting at high currents.
I’ve read that resistor dividers for momentary button flashlights should use high value resistors to minimize drain.
What do I need in order to get started with thermal regulation?