klrman wrote:

teacher wrote:

klrman wrote:

@teacher, yes Q8 on the left. The ROT66 XPL Hi V3 3A NW is the real deal, it’s what I have been always hoping for

Gotcha, I was pretty sure it was. That is really nice too… a “neutral white” that is actually ‘Neutral White’, not WW with a ‘Yellow Tint’ that is called ‘neutral’. I love it!!!

I know what you’re saying I recently got another……. cough cough……. “NW” light, that is yellow as a banana!

teacher wrote:

Newlumen wrote:

Rot66 sst20 cw

.

Rot66 xpl hi 6500k

.

Rot66 Samsung 4000k

Thanks Newlumen!!

• 1. What is the color of that house?? Off white, beige, or light yellow???

• 2. Are any of those three ‘High CRI’??

I will take daylight photo tomorrow.. samsung 4000k is 90 cri. Sst20 cw is 66 cri.

klrman wrote:

SKV89 wrote:

klrman wrote:

twisted raven wrote:

Does the XPL HI have a ‘hotspot within a hotspot’ effect to it, or is it a nicely filled spot like the SST20?

 

Don’t know if this will help as I have a cheap camera, but here is a pic I took  yesterday of the XPL Hi from from the ROT66 compared to the BLF Q8. 

 

 

 

damn that XP-L HI beam looks perfect! I’m glad I have the XP-L HI 3A on the way!

 

Here’s a better shot by itself that I just took.  It’s such an awesome NW, I’m really impressed and the evenness of the beam is amazing.  I took a chance ordering the XPL HI V3 3A NW hoping it would really be a solid NW, but I never expected it to be that good.

 

Nice photo.. this is what it look like in real..

I just got my second rot66 xpl hi V3 3A, but guess what, it's half as bright on maximum as my first rot66.  I looked at all the emitters, cleaned all the contacts, I'm really not sure what is going on there.  Any ideas anyone?

klrman wrote:

I just got my second rot66 xpl hi V3 3A, but guess what, it’s half as bright on maximum as my first rot66.  I looked at all the emitters, cleaned all the contacts, I’m really not sure what is going on there.  Any ideas anyone?

klrman wrote:

I just got my second rot66 xpl hi V3 3A, but guess what, it’s half as bright on maximum as my first rot66.  I looked at all the emitters, cleaned all the contacts, I’m really not sure what is going on there.  Any ideas anyone?

I think you are on the stepped mode that only give about 2400 lumen.. are you in stepped mode or ramping mode ??

They both seem to step a little when ramping.  How do I change between ramp mode and step mode to test for sure?

When the light is on, 3 fast clicks.

It was in ramp mode then.  Going back and forth both, ramp and step mode max out at the same brightness, which is far less than my first rot66.  

Thats weird.. i think twisted raven or skv might know about it..

Newlumen wrote:

Thats weird.. i think twisted raven or skv might know about it..

 Yeah, flickers badly in low mode too.  I checked the driver ring and it is tight.

Jack just told me when the light is on I need to double click to get it into turbo mode and it worked!  Confusing as my first one ramps

all the way to max and this one needs to  be double clicked?

Newlumen wrote:

teacher wrote:

Newlumen wrote:

Rot66 sst20 cw

.

Rot66 xpl hi 6500k

.

Rot66 Samsung 4000k

Thanks Newlumen!!

• 1. What is the color of that house?? Off white, beige, or light yellow???

• 2. Are any of those three ‘High CRI’??

I will take daylight photo tomorrow.. samsung 4000k is 90 cri. Sst20 cw is 66 cri.

That’s interesting about the CRI.

I honestly can’t tell a dimes worth of difference between the three photos. The yellow, red, black, roof, siding, tree leaves, ground, rust on the bottom of the meter boxes, pretty much everything….. appears the same color & shade in each picture.

• SST 20 = 66 CRI

• XP-L HI = 70 CRI (I’m guessing)

• Samsung = 90 CRI

klrman wrote:

Newlumen wrote:

Thats weird.. i think twisted raven or skv might know about it..

 

 Yeah, flickers badly in low mode too.  I checked the driver ring and it is tight.

 

Jack just told me when the light is on I need to double click to get it into turbo mode and it worked!  Confusing as my first one ramps

all the way to max and this one needs to  be double clicked?

I don’t have an Anduril light yet, so I can’t help you through the steps of configuring it. Maybe someone here knows and can describe the process.

JasonWW wrote:

klrman wrote:

Newlumen wrote:

Thats weird.. i think twisted raven or skv might know about it..

 

 Yeah, flickers badly in low mode too.  I checked the driver ring and it is tight.

 

Jack just told me when the light is on I need to double click to get it into turbo mode and it worked!  Confusing as my first one ramps

all the way to max and this one needs to  be double clicked?

Some people like to have the ramp stop before max output. You can configure it to ramp up to max if you prefer that. I don't have an Anduril light yet, so I can't help you through the steps of configuring it. Maybe someone here knows and can describe the process.

See above post, I now have both Anduril and NarsilM.   I see the diagram on how to use Anduril but my brain needs time to decipher it.  I like the idea of configuring it, that is a nice bonus.

The Anduril one flickers on the lowest ramp whereas NarsilM does not.  Maybe NarsilM can manage the lowest output better, but the flicker on the lowest output is not a big deal for me with Anduril.

It looks like it requires the light to be on, then you do 4 fast clicks to get into the Ramp Config. After that I’m lost. Lol

I’m not sure what the flickering is about. Maybe the lowest level is a little bit too low?

LOL.  I get lost in that diagram too.  I'm sure there is pure logic to it all but I have not found it as of yet.  I'm assuming "click N times for level N" in "floor" probably means to click and stop wherever I want the lowest ramp setting to be. Will try again in the morning during my coffee pause when my brain is all fired up again.

I compared the lows from both flashlights and they both seem to be equally dimly lit.    Maybe the flicker is just part of Anduril on such a low setting.

ToyKeeper wrote:

twisted raven wrote:

My predominant usage of the ROT66 is in the 50-1400 lumen range. I hardly ever use the 5-6000 lumen turbo blast.

The recent 3500 mAh cells are probably a good fit… maxed-out capacity with plenty of power for 3000 lumens or less. In this light, high-drain cells are basically only relevant for turbo mode.

I cannot pick based on capacity. Anything wider than 18.1mm won’t fit in the battery tube, it’s very tight, and I own three ROT66. I need to use my Sony VTC5 which are 18.1mm max width.

nokoff wrote:

I cannot pick based on capacity. Anything wider than 18.1mm won’t fit in the battery tube, it’s very tight, and I own three ROT66. I need to use my Sony VTC5 which are 18.1mm max width.

klrman wrote:

LOL.  I get lost in that diagram too.  I’m sure there is pure logic to it all but I have not found it as of yet.  I’m assuming “click N times for level N” in “floor” probably means to click and stop wherever I want the lowest ramp setting to be. Will try again in the morning during my coffee pause when my brain is all fired up again.

 

I compared the lows from both flashlights and they both seem to be equally dimly lit.    Maybe the flicker is just part of Anduril on such a low setting.

Turn light on

Click 4 times fast

Light will blink once then pulse

During the pulse Click 2 or 3 times here to set a new higher floor

Yeah by default the Anduril UI shipping with the Fireflies seems to ramp up to the maximum regulated ouptut, which caught me off guard as well. When the light is on, you can double click to get to max output.

The lowest output on my Anduril using SST20s flicker a litlte bit too. None of my Narsil ones flickered.

Anduril sucks. Luckily mine are all Narsil. Tightening the carriers solved my switching off issues btw.

My review. Took ages….

Anduril doesn’t do it on every model of light; although it seems that at least one version does on this one. It’s not hard to prevent for normal use; just set a ramp floor of 3. I haven’t done that, because the lower floor, even with a flicker, is very low indeed.

Try this video:

6:33-10:13

https://youtu.be/h_mZ35IPLMA?t=6m33s

From on, click 4 times, it will flash once, then begin fluttering. You want to click the number of levels (1-150 steps, ignore that the video says 250 steps) that you want the floor and then don’t do anything for about 2 seconds. So probably click it 1 (lowest level) to maybe 3 times. This will set the floor or moonlight to 1 of 150, 2 of 150, 3 of 150 etc…

Then it will blick twice and begin fluttering again. Now you can set the ceiling. It starts at the highest 150 and you can click the number of steps LESS you want. If you want the ceiling at step 130 of 150 you will click 20 times. Click once to stay at 150.

After not doing anything for a few seconds it should blink 3 times and begin fluttering again. Now you click the number of “stepped” levels you want, such as 3 or maybe 6, etc… After not doing anything for 2 seconds it leaves the Config mode.

The ceiling is max – clicks + 1 so max is 1 click IIRC. Meaning 0 leaves it as it is.

spaceminions wrote:

The ceiling is max – clicks + 1 so max is 1 click IIRC. Meaning 0 leaves it as it is.

I guess that’s why the ceiling diagram says 1+Turbo-N. It needs at least 1 click to recognize a selection was made.

Yeah I config’d mine to 3 clicks on ramp floor. Solved the flicker issue, and I think the 3 click floor is a more usable low than the lowest anyways.

twisted raven wrote:

Yeah I config’d mine to 3 clicks on ramp floor. Solved the flicker issue, and I think the 3 click floor is a more usable low than the lowest anyways.

Flashaholics wrote:

Anduril sucks.

You would think someone that reviews flashlights would at least give a reason for such a statement but alas I am not surprised. Wont be viewing this one either because of the way you present yourself on the forum.

Anduril does by default, at least the latest builds Toykeeper has described, have the ramp ceiling set to a lower level – for the ROT66 builds, I think she said the maximum regulated level, so it will be lower for the 219B version than the others.

I suppose whether that’s desired is personal preference, but fortunately, it’s configurable.

The flickering on minimum mode is most likely a combination of how specific 7135’s and specific emitter copies work together. They have a minimum where they don’t function consistently, which has been known about on BLF for years. Some samples are bound to just have a slightly higher minimum threshold and need the floor set higher.

Flashaholics wrote:

It’s funny yanks on here hate me because of where I’m from.