Not sure what you mean. If it’s off it’s not drawing current. Could you clarify what you mean? Thanks
Though t about it, but I don’t get it either. Please enlighten us 
Sorry, I was referring to the video shared in this post. Someone is keeping the light “off” (no light emanating from the LED) by attaching it to a magnet. I imagine the light is still drawing power, as the hall effect sensors are still powered on. In my light, I measured 13mA at the lowest mode. With a 600mAHr battery, the battery would be dead in about 40 hours if left in that state. Left longer the battery would likely be damaged, assuming the light doesn’t have LVP. Not sure if that is true or not.
Sorry for any confusion my post caused . . . 
It was never actually off. While he had it within a stronger magnetic field than the variable ring itself, I still say it is because he had it on, not off, even if there was no visible light. Not a smart way to store your torch. I thought you meant the variable ring’s magnet was drawing current somehow away from the battery when off., which it can’t. Thanks for clarifying.
Indeed, thanks for clarifying. Really like the lower low.
Now how to get that higher high?
I created a ‘Rosy Rotary’ by swapping a Nichia 219B R9080 sw45k into my V11R. :heart_eyes:
My sample had plenty of glue. A few wraps of gaffer tape protected the ano while Vise-Grips and pipe pliers opened the front.
I reflowed an R9080 onto an Astrolux A01’s MCPCB. It’s the same diameter and thickness of the stock V11R board.
The V11R on low with an Eneloop AA now makes my Zebralight SC62w’s lowest 0.01 lumen setting look like turbo!
This new ‘Rosy Rotary’ happily joins ‘Team Rosy.’ :partying_face:
Got my V11r today and the LED in the new one is different than the 2+ year old one I had with a serial number on the body. Did they change LED versions? The low and high look relatively close to each other, but there is an odd momentary flicker when rotating to max high on the new one. The old V11r ramped perfectly smoothly from low to high. The new one also has a larger gap between where the LED appeared to reach max brightness and where the ring movement ended. This results in about the last 30% of travel making no difference. The original one was similar, but the gap was smaller. There is also a tint difference, but not dramatic. Overall, I think the new V11r is acceptable given the price, but it definitely doesn’t compare 100% to the original one.
KuoH
Old
New
Mine ramps perfectly smooth from beginning to end. Mine is bought recently from fasttech and I changed the led, did not really use it with the original led. But I think it should be smooth all the way.
Yep, looks like an XM-L in the old one and an XM-L2 in the new one. 
Mine ramps smooth from lowest to highest with no flicker… there was absolutely no glue and opening it up only took finger force I changed the LED for a XP-L Hi 3A tint on a copper Mcpcb, the low is low enough for my use, so far I am very happy with this deal, waiting on the extension tube for use with 14500 or AA’s
You gave it the champion of all Nichia! Well done. I’d like the same one day.
I know exactly what your talking about Kuoh, the V11R that I purchased a year ago from fasttech also has the last 30% do nothing and the flickering at about 70% brightness.
All 3 of the V11R’s I purchased from ebay have perfect ramping and no flicker with the XML2.
Getting one with flicker and 70% useful rotation maybe SWM lottery bad luck. 
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By the way, the LH351D 4000k 90 CRI also seems to lower the low if your looking to do a emitter swap.
Battery Junction still has some AA extenders for $15. Not sure how many are left though.
mine arrived today, disappointed really. Guess I got one that the last 30% of rotation does nothing at all. And the rotating ring seems to vary in pressure while turning, sometimes too loose, other times just right. I watched a review where he said that he thought the ring was too hard to turn while using one handed. Surely mine didn’t come degreased? And my low is not that low, wished it were lower. Anyone else rotating ring seem to vary in pressure? Still a great deal at $19. Anyone confirm the high output with a lightsphere on a 16340?
appreciate all the knowledgeable posts, thanks!
patrick
Usually the varying feel on the ring is caused by the damping grease not evenly spread threw the ring.
If you crack open the head to get to the control ring, you can add as much damping grease or take away as much grease as you see fit.
The amount of grease to effort to turn the ring is proportional. Very little grease very easy to turn, alot and its stiff.I listed the grease back on post #144 that most agree is the original.
Mine was very stiff at first however is smoother after a few days of twisting, which was my goal to evenly distributed the grease. Twist it a bunch of times over the next couple of days. If you still don’t like it, replace it with Nyogel. I’ve repacked my older variable rings with Nyogel and like them even more, and like Mod007 said add it to your stiffness liking.
Triple emitter lights on copper noctigons work just fine with air under the center of the star.
I’ve modded lights with triple XPL-HI, a FET driver and low resistance 18650. They run fine even when the only contact for the MPCB is the edge of the star and a tiny ledge below the edge.
However, if you try this you will need to be GENEROUS with the thermal grease at the edges. If you’re not, there probably won’t be sufficient heatsinking and the LED leads will desolder themselves from the star.
The V11R is such low power I suspect it might even run without the extra thermal grease.
Now if someone could get busy and find us a similar deal on some Sunwaynam V10A and V20A magnetic rotarys, we wouldn’t have to worry about tracking down those separate and easily misplaced AA adapters/extenders (there are at least two floating around my house, somewhere).
Great thread, I’ve carried a JetBeam RRT01 since 2012. Since those are no longer being manufactured, these are a nice alternative. Thanks to everyone for the informative mod links and info on current emitters.
I needed to replace the grease after machining the ring for a lower low mode.
I replaced the grease with yezl silicone grease, and it feels much smoother now. Was not bad before, but I also had some variation in resistance sometimes.