More flood you say? Hmmm, what are the options for getting these leds? Can they be bought reflowed on a board or do you have to buy a host, use that mcpcb and reflow yourself?
You can reflow them yourself, but most of us, not including me of course, don’t have solder paste+temperature controlled hotplate. So it is out of the question unless you have it.
Leave a message saying you want 4000k 90CRI LH351Ds or 5000k 80CRI LH351Ds reflowed instead of the 219C, since they are about the same price He won’t mind at all.
I guess I have to buy a 21700 host from Sofirn and reflow the leds myself. I’ve got a cheap hot air station so I can clamp the mcpcb and heat it slowly from the bottom. I’ve got solder paste, but I think you can apply some wire solder to the pads, add some extra flux and then hot air to do the reflow. I need to watch more youtube hot air reflow videos.
Replaced the tail spring (large blue) and beefed up the bypass (20 gauge) on my C8F 21700 w/ LH351D 4000K 90CRI
3,177 at 0s w/ lightly used Vapcell 3750mAh 24A 21700
3,486 at 0s w/ topped off 30T Vapcell re-wrap
They use so much solder on their spring pad I was worried I would kill the switch trying to get it off since I do not have hot air gun. I clamped alligator clips on both switch legs and it seems to be fine.
Going to call this one done.
Have one more host but not sure what LEDs I wanna use with it just yet.
The C8F with 21700? There was a whole thread Tracy started, get it from Amazon via code, PM her to ask for it.
Just got mine today, charging the cell as I type. ~33bux for the kit, ie with light/cell/charger/cable. And from Amazon, so you get it in a week vs a month.
(Shouldda tried for 2, but had hinky things with coupons before. Ie, try for 2, can’t get it, retry for 1, “you have already used this coupon…”, balls…, so I decided to play it safe.)
And I can’t believe Utorsh has its own version out there. Flash sale at GB, 30bux without the kit.
Yeah, does kinda bug me when someone (not Mikey, even though I got nfi where Uppuwhatever might be ) asks “Where to get XYZ?”, people chime in, then 40 replies later, get “Oh, I’m in Lower M’Botho, and Amazon/GB/AX/anyone doesn’t deliver anything here.”.
Ummm, so put it in yer profile, or say so beforehand, maybe?
Anyhoo, yeah, ’twas a nice deal. Think I wanna get another one. :laughing:
I wonder if there’s any changes at all (firmware driver, the varying lumens due to varying tailcap current between samples…), other than the logo/branding?
I don’t see the point in measuring lumens at 0s only. It’s only for a split second, doubt we ever see that number other than in a lumen tube or similar.
I always measure at both 0s and 30s as it gives a more realistic rating. Also shows if a light can handle the heat