The There Are No Stupid Questions Thread

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Virisenox_
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lampliter wrote:
What is “the” best way to dispose of lion bats? (18650)

The correct answers are to take them to either a battery bin at your local hardware store or Best Buy, or to take them to your local household hazardous waste center

I used to do a lot of laptop cell pulls, so at one point I had a 10 lb bag of dead cells. The hazardous waste center wouldn’t take it, as they said they only took household waste. I said, “This is from a household, but I know what you mean.”
I ended up taking them to a Batteries + Bulbs, and they took the cells no questions asked.

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Lightbringer wrote:
lampliter wrote:
What is “the” best way to dispose of lion bats? (18650)

Include them as a “free gift” with a Cometa?
Facepalm Thumbs Up

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Lightbringer wrote:
Hmm, I was just wondering, is there no such thing as a stupid question?
Well… NOW there is! Wink

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Tom6
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What about silicone oil or something similar for lubricated light tubes from Gearbest or Bangood? Thanks
Virisenox_
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Tom6 wrote:
lubricated light tubes

I’m not sure what you mean by this, this CPF post is very helpful for making a decision on a lube. I use Super Lube on everything. I bought a big tube a couple years back and I haven’t even used a quarter of it yet. Not sure how easy it would be to get that where you are though.

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Tom6
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Virisenox_ wrote:
Tom6 wrote:
lubricated light tubes

I’m not sure what you mean by this, this CPF post is very helpful for making a decision on a lube. I use Super Lube on everything. I bought a big tube a couple years back and I haven’t even used a quarter of it yet. Not sure how easy it would be to get that where you are though.

Thanks. Thats what i want.But its more easy for me to buy something like that or nyogel 760 from GB or BG.Any suggestions?
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Has anyone ever used Marvel Mystery Oil for lubing threads and O Rings ? Question

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So why are batteries round? well most of them aside from 9v, lantern, car batteries etc, does the round/cyclinder serve a purpose or is it just easier to manufacture?

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Yes, many lithium batteries are sheets of matrix seperating some powdery stuff the sheets are rolled up making a cylinder

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9v batteries actually use 6 cylinder shaped cells wired in series and put in the metal housing.

Some car batteries do use cylinder shaped sections. The AGM type batteries like Optima.

The cylinder shape is just a very practical way to manufacture them.

Some lithium chemistries can be make in flat sheets. This is what cell phones and certain electric cars use.

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How do you think a aquarium with 8 shrimp felt when I turned to look at the ceiling above them 12000 lumen , but stopped when the shrimp kind of turned luminiferous a bit when the light hit the aquarium ?? seemed to add a blue colour to them the next day ? Twilight zone aka..moon and stars.

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Well, these are stupid questions flashlight-related! I’d like some help please!

I have some XP-G2 Led laying around, different tints! They were replaced by other LEDs in different flashlights, but I kept them of course!
I also have some triple MCPCBs that need to be used!
My questions are:

1) Will mixing XP-G2 of different tints work well knowing that I will use a Carclo 10507?
2) Also, does it worth dedoming those leds to use them with triple optics?
3) Last but not least, is there a risk of blowing them with a Led4Power driver set for 9A or, with any of the following batteries: EFEST IMR14500 ; ASPIRE 1100mAh; Samsung 30Q; Sony VTC6??

Any help is appreciated Beer

[REVIEWS] AMUTORCH: S3 / S3 vs 219c / AM30 / AX1 / VG10 /// SOFIRN: SF14 + SP10A / SP32A / SP10B /// NITEFOX: UT20 / ES10K / K3 /// ODEPRO: KL52 / B108 /// ACEBEAM: H20 / TK16 /// BLITZWOLF: BW-ET1 /// DQG: AA Slim Ti /// HC-LIGHTS: SS AAA /// XTAR: PB2 Charger /// OLIGHT: M2R Warrior /// WUBEN: TO10R / E05 / T70 / E10 /// ON THE ROAD: M1 / i3 / M3 Pro /// ROVYVON: A2 + A5R / E300S / A8 /// KLARUS: XT1C /// LUMINTOP: Tool AA V2.0 + Tool 25 /// LIVARNOLUX: 314791 /// SKILHUNT: M150

Tricks: 1 / 2 / 3 / 4 / 5 / 6 / 7 / 8 /// TIR Lenses: 1 / 2 /// Others: Biscotti 3 + 1*7135 / Triple TIR w/ XP-G2 ///// My Collection ///// My Review's Blog (PT)

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A lot of people mix tints. Once you get a few inches away from the lens they start blending together smoothly. So no issues there.

I don’t really know about dedoming effects on tir lenses. I haven’t tried it myself. I usually convert from reflectors to tir to get a wider beam, not narrower. If dedoming reacts like in a reflector, then in theory it should give a smaller hot spot and more throw in a tir.

If an XP-G2 can handle 5 or 6 amps, then using a triple at 9A, 3A each, should be fine.

If the driver was a FET, I would be worried, but it looks like the Led4power driver is linear and can limit at 9A, so no worries.

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JasonWW wrote:
A lot of people mix tints. Once you get a few inches away from the lens they start blending together smoothly. So no issues there.

I don’t really know about dedoming effects on tir lenses. I haven’t tried it myself. I usually convert from reflectors to tir to get a wider beam, not narrower. If dedoming reacts like in a reflector, then in theory it should give a smaller hot spot and more throw in a tir.

If an XP-G2 can handle 5 or 6 amps, then using a triple at 9A, 3A each, should be fine.

If the driver was a FET, I would be worried, but it looks like the Led4power driver is linear and can limit at 9A, so no worries.

Thanks for your answer Jason! It clarifies my major doubts! I’m still deciding on the dedoming (as I’d like a bit of throw and I don’t have/don’t want to buy XP-L HI emitters) and the led mixing .
Thanks again Thumbs Up

[REVIEWS] AMUTORCH: S3 / S3 vs 219c / AM30 / AX1 / VG10 /// SOFIRN: SF14 + SP10A / SP32A / SP10B /// NITEFOX: UT20 / ES10K / K3 /// ODEPRO: KL52 / B108 /// ACEBEAM: H20 / TK16 /// BLITZWOLF: BW-ET1 /// DQG: AA Slim Ti /// HC-LIGHTS: SS AAA /// XTAR: PB2 Charger /// OLIGHT: M2R Warrior /// WUBEN: TO10R / E05 / T70 / E10 /// ON THE ROAD: M1 / i3 / M3 Pro /// ROVYVON: A2 + A5R / E300S / A8 /// KLARUS: XT1C /// LUMINTOP: Tool AA V2.0 + Tool 25 /// LIVARNOLUX: 314791 /// SKILHUNT: M150

Tricks: 1 / 2 / 3 / 4 / 5 / 6 / 7 / 8 /// TIR Lenses: 1 / 2 /// Others: Biscotti 3 + 1*7135 / Triple TIR w/ XP-G2 ///// My Collection ///// My Review's Blog (PT)

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Lots of good natured electronic wizards here, so I’ll ask. I got an Hitachi-koki 120V US charger, but we use 230V mains here in Oz. I am thinking of doing this hack.

https://youtu.be/yw6AxFheIww

I’ve opened the unit and found out that all the caps and diodes near the input are all already rated 250V or 275V except one “120E-1” transformer.

Idk, I suspect it takes universal input. Should I try and plug it into 230V mains?

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Puff!
All magic smoke should be free!!!

No, 230V AC means 325V peak.
Bad idea.

(120V AC has 170V peak)

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You didn’t give us any info on what this charger does. 120v AC to 12v DC?

Anyway, I’m guessing the 120E-1 transformer takes 120v AC and steps it down. BD1 is clearly a bridge rectifier converting it to DC. If the transformer drops the voltage from 120v to 12v (10 to 1 reduction), then maybe you can swap it for one that does double the reduction (20 to 1). Now you will be back to 12v and the rest of the device will work normally.

Make sure power comes to the transformer first. If it goes to that ecqul capacitor first, then it will need to be changed to a higher voltage version.

I think that is a 13.15A fuse in the back. See it that is after the transformer, if not, you would need to halve it’s rating.

This is just a total guess as I’m no expert on this at all.

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Sorry I forgot to mention, it is an 18V hitachi power tool battery charger. But boy am I glad I asked! Money saved will go towards torches to give away for the visually impaired charity.

Thanks gentlemen.

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What is the best driver to run 3 20mm triple sst-20 or luxeon v2’s with optics in one maglight type host host, I’ve got around 28mm-30mm tube diameter and I thought of running 6 × 14500’s in parallel (2 sets of three batteries bundled together all wired in parallel for 3.7v) is is all possible? I guess having typed that now you’ll ask me whay not just use one high drain 26650 or 32650 right? and how would I charge that battery pack I guess is another matter…

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Is it possible to set the LitoKala Lii 500 to turn itself off after it reaches 3.7 volts?

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I hope there will be a copper and titanium version of the emisar d4s I’d buy a couple of them one of every luminus sst tint

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Does any one know if emisar will ever offer the d4 in cu and ti again?

Don’t care much for the d4v2 But want another 18650 light as I dropped my manker e14II on the boat ramp and dove in after it but the light cut out under the water
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HKSJOSHUA_ wrote:
Does any one know if emisar will ever offer the d4 in cu and ti again? Don’t care much for the d4v2 But want another 18650 light as I dropped my manker e14II on the boat ramp and dove in after it but the light cut out under the water

The normal D4V1 isn’t even in stock anymore if that’s what you’re asking about. If there’s another Ti/Cu light it will be the D4v2 or another Emisar light.

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Ahh I see on another note are these 18350 batteries compatable in a short config d4 or d4v2

https://perfectvape.com/efest-18350-imr-battery-red-800-mah-button-top/

I can get these for 2 dollars plus tax was wondering if it would be worth grabbing a couple

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Not sure if this is the correct place to ask this, but I feel stupid to ask it outside this thread Facepalm

I wanna mod a light that uses a 15mm driver, and is suitable to use 2*AA/Ni-MH cells in series.
I want to replace the driver for another one with a more suitable FW and UI, and the possibility to use 2×14500 Li-Ion batteries.

My questions are:
- which 15mm drivers are out there that will allow me to use 2×14500 Li-Ion cells in series? (with or without zener modification)
- which LEDs can be driven in these circumstances? (type, single or multiple drivers)

I am really confused be some information and would like to clarify myself before making order of components to modify the light!

Thanks in advance!

[REVIEWS] AMUTORCH: S3 / S3 vs 219c / AM30 / AX1 / VG10 /// SOFIRN: SF14 + SP10A / SP32A / SP10B /// NITEFOX: UT20 / ES10K / K3 /// ODEPRO: KL52 / B108 /// ACEBEAM: H20 / TK16 /// BLITZWOLF: BW-ET1 /// DQG: AA Slim Ti /// HC-LIGHTS: SS AAA /// XTAR: PB2 Charger /// OLIGHT: M2R Warrior /// WUBEN: TO10R / E05 / T70 / E10 /// ON THE ROAD: M1 / i3 / M3 Pro /// ROVYVON: A2 + A5R / E300S / A8 /// KLARUS: XT1C /// LUMINTOP: Tool AA V2.0 + Tool 25 /// LIVARNOLUX: 314791 /// SKILHUNT: M150

Tricks: 1 / 2 / 3 / 4 / 5 / 6 / 7 / 8 /// TIR Lenses: 1 / 2 /// Others: Biscotti 3 + 1*7135 / Triple TIR w/ XP-G2 ///// My Collection ///// My Review's Blog (PT)

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It’s usually best to start by seeing if anyone has already modded the particular light you want to use as a host. Then you can find out if there are triple or quad spacers already made to fit. Assuming you can’t mill your own spacer, you might have to stick with a single 6v emitter.

Is there a specific UI you want to use?

I didn’t see any 15mm 6v drivers from MTN, but Lexel might have one. That’s my main 2 sources.

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JasonWW wrote:
It’s usually best to start by seeing if anyone has already modded the particular light you want to use as a host. Then you can find out if there are triple or quad spacers already made to fit. Assuming you can’t mill your own spacer, you might have to stick with a single 6v emitter.

Is there a specific UI you want to use?

I didn’t see any 15mm 6v drivers from MTN, but Lexel might have one. That’s my main 2 sources.


Thanks for your answer Jason!

That driver from Lexel, I’d need to use XHP50/70 leds with it?

The specific light in this case is the Lumintop Tool 25 that I received today and that some people are probably receiving now, or will receive soon.
So this light itself, I don’t think people have modded yet.
I would probably use only a single emitter, but not sure which one could be driven by 2 cells and the [INSERT NAME] driver.

The UI could be Bistro (in Lexel’s drivers) or guppy3drv (MTN drivers). I pointed these 2 as I know they sell 15mm drivers, but then, again, I am not sure if they will be able to work with 2*14500 cells, and which Leds will work on those conditions.

Besides this light, some of these questions are also applicable for the mod of the BlitzWolf BW-ET1 (side switch) that I intend to mod.

[REVIEWS] AMUTORCH: S3 / S3 vs 219c / AM30 / AX1 / VG10 /// SOFIRN: SF14 + SP10A / SP32A / SP10B /// NITEFOX: UT20 / ES10K / K3 /// ODEPRO: KL52 / B108 /// ACEBEAM: H20 / TK16 /// BLITZWOLF: BW-ET1 /// DQG: AA Slim Ti /// HC-LIGHTS: SS AAA /// XTAR: PB2 Charger /// OLIGHT: M2R Warrior /// WUBEN: TO10R / E05 / T70 / E10 /// ON THE ROAD: M1 / i3 / M3 Pro /// ROVYVON: A2 + A5R / E300S / A8 /// KLARUS: XT1C /// LUMINTOP: Tool AA V2.0 + Tool 25 /// LIVARNOLUX: 314791 /// SKILHUNT: M150

Tricks: 1 / 2 / 3 / 4 / 5 / 6 / 7 / 8 /// TIR Lenses: 1 / 2 /// Others: Biscotti 3 + 1*7135 / Triple TIR w/ XP-G2 ///// My Collection ///// My Review's Blog (PT)

GIVEAWAY: 1

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I’m not sure if anyone makes a Buck driver that small, so you might be limited to a 6v led.

The XHP50/70 are 6 volt, but there are others out there. I’m not too familiar with them. Maybe someone else can comment on them. (Nichia 144A is 6v)

The xhp50/50.2 does not like FET drivers. The 70/70.2 would be fine with FET.

I really don’t know what kind of drivers are available in that small size. I think that’s what you need to find out first. I’ve never built anything with such a small driver.

Maybe the driver size is similar to the earlier Tool AA. Have you checked Tool AA threads?

Sorry I’m not much help.

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If 1+1 is 2, then shouldn’t 2+2 be 3?

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