Not sure what that has to do with Emisar flashlights, since the 30s the D4 will stay on turbo only presents a risk if you point it at your face. Does make me feel good about preferring warmer tints like the 4000k XPG in my D4, 4000k XPL in D4S, and the new oddball Nichia 219D in the Folomov 18650S. I don’t know anything about the D, but wonder if it could handle D4/D4S currents better than the C. The Folomov seems to be putting 5A-ish through it.
3000-4000K definitely blunts that blue peak, 4500 on up it still dominates (some guesswork, the bins on Cree’s graph are really wide)
Now I’m curious what kind of raunchy thing I said. Generally I keep things pretty G-rated (or PG) around here.
About a shortcut to moon though, hold from off. Let go after half a second, and it should stay at moon. If you want it to remember that level, ramp up a little then back down, and it’ll remember. The memory isn’t really “last-used level”, but rather “last-ramped level”.
Thanks, TK, I was having an elder moment and being slow to get up to speed with the UI. As to that other matter, I seem to remember it having to do with working wood, and maybe a reference to sandpaper…
Yeah, I wondered why they were going for the HI, with it’s (somehow) reduced output instead of the HD. I thought it was to add a bit of throw, though trying to do that to a D4 is kind of… well, it’s just a floody light with any emitter. But I think the HD won’t fit without some manual trimming of the dome. The D4S uses a completely different optic. If the HD had been available when I ordered my D4S, I probably would have gone for it. Then again, the white-wall tint profile of the HI is so much nicer.
I was late to the party with the D4, having just received mine. I am struck by how much I like the 3A tint in comparison to 1A or 3D. The 3A looks like a more neutral creamy white and makes me wonder why we hadn’t seen it more widely available sooner, as well as causing me to be curious what a 2A tint looks like. Any body else find the 3A a big step up in the right direction?
XP-L HI produces a cleaner beam with more throw and better tint consistency. It’s powerful and it looks good.
XP-L HD produces somewhat more lumens, but it’s diluted across a wider beam so it doesn’t look brighter. It looks dimmer instead, and the tint is less consistent across the beam.
Nichia 219C provides good tint consistency and CRI, at the expense of being less throwy and generating a lot of heat.
Nichia 219B would make the nicest-looking beam of all, but it isn’t really available any more and it makes the fewest lumens by far.
LH351D can make a lot of lumens and also comes in high-CRI varieties, but it’s extremely floody and I haven’t found any which don’t look green.
XP-G2 is a pretty decent compromise choice, with decent all-around performance and relatively low cost, but it does not excel at anything in particular.
The emitters I’ve had the best results from are XP-L HI and Nichia 219B. It depends mostly on whether I want throw and performance, or if I want the most beautiful beam, but both make pretty nice-looking beams.
3A is just like 3D, except about 250K colder. I like both, but I like 3D a little more. I’m pretty happy with 3A, 3D, or 4A.
Typically, the “A” and “D” tints are the ones which look best, and the choice of which one depends entirely on what color temperature you prefer. This chart shows where each tint bin is in the spectrum:
Can you let me know how it goes, I may follow your lead. The only reason I haven’t done so already was that I am wondering how it will go in the same pocket with credit cards.
I do wish there were a longer tailcap available. I just want it to be longer, but would happily accept additional functionality with a strong magnet and lanyard loop, maybe even a tripod mount.