Basically, move the permanent switch LED wire to the indicator LED pad. And move the aux LED board wire to the inner side of the switch LED resistor. The downside is, it makes reflashing not work without unsoldering the aux LED wire. And the aux LED board turns red about 0.25V higher than usual.
I have waited for two months for ROT66 and it will not happen, because even the statuses do not change. Firefiles, a few days ago, promised to send again and … silence, no response. Bad start. I guess I will have to write to paypal.
My rot66 arrived this week but defective, unusable. Probably some bad contact inside the head but I bought it glued. I wrote to Jack, let’s see how after-sales works for me
if you don’t get a response in a day or two try a PM on here instead. I think it works better than the contact option on his website; I don’t think that works. I wish I could help; he needs a daily presence on here to help coordinate. He does resolve every issue to each person’s satisfaction but sometimes it takes a minute.
My complaints have turned out well. I got new. Waiting for it was not pleasant. Faulty lamps are a great deal of how much they sold. In addition, it is always possible for a newly dispatched flashlight to be lost, it will have to pay VAT and customs fees (in the EU). Nevertheless, I believe FF for now and buy E07.
I feel your frustration because I’ve been there with my Enogear AA experience, which took months but ended up a satisfactory experience. I bought 4 ROT66 from him at different times. The first ROT66 I bought on day 1 it was announced, before the group buy started. That one took I think about 3 months. It was shipped out earliest and I had tracking number but I guess it might have been stuck at customs. The other ones came between 2weeks to a month. I know it’s hard to wait, but have a little bit more patience. You can PM Jack here. He takes weeks to respond to emails but he responds to PMs in a day or two.
I didn’t receive confirmation when I ordered mine until several days after placing the order. It is shipped from China by a low cost method, so expect to take several weeks to possible even a month.
My ROT66 continues to be weird. I was using it over the weekend and so I left batteries in it. Sure enough last night while sitting untouched on a shelf it turned itself on again. Now I can’t get it to work at all. When I first put batteries in it turns on and ramps up to max, stays there for a few seconds, then blinks and turns off. It is unresponsive to any button input, including trying a four-click to lock/unlock.
Anybody know what’s going on? Should I try to return or warranty the light? I like the tint of the Nichias but I have a hard time ever trusting this light to be useful when I need it.
Mine flashes all by itself now, coming on briefly or blinking, main and auxiliary LEDs. The batteries were at 4v when this happened. Jacky is sending out a new board
Boy the e-switch sure sounds like the culprit . S%$#@ happens, and sounds like it happened right in that switch. Might be some cleaning agent or flux, or something gunked up, or maybe the wiring/PCB/etc. I think the ramping up to shutting down is by design. Sounds like something I did (and/or TK) to handle the case of a stuck switch - think I made my timeout 20 seconds, where it would go into lock-out mode if that ever occurred. This is to prevent the light from being on if the switch was jammed in the ON position, like in a bag or pocket.
Thanks for your input. I just ran a test again and I noticed that the switch always has 2 lights on, never 4. This would seem to confirm your theory that the switch is stuck on.