OSRAM CSLNM1.TG & CULNM1.TG 1mm², CSLPM1.TG & CULPM1.TG 2mm²

It might sound surprising but as soon as you remove/turn off heat source(LED in this case), temperature of that copper piece drop very fast(if bottom cooler still works). So you can't "feel" by finger how hot is top of copper rod when LED is working.

It's like you are trying to measure capacitor voltage after you charge it and disconnect from power supply; copper rod is thermal capacitor itself,but it also is resistor in parallel with that capacitor because it's very thermally conductive. So you have parallel RC circuit. So when you connect this network to power supply(=heat source analogy), it will charge to for ex. 5V (volts = temp difference analogy) and stay there as long as it's connected to power supply.

But as soon as you remove power supply(=heat source analogy), voltage (=temp. difference analogy) drops rapidly due to low value of parallel resistor (electrical resistance=thermal resistance analogy).

That's why you never feel that top of copper rod is hot.

I’m only somewhat dissapointed ;).
The tint and Vf are certainly a big deal.
The brightness not so much.

I will try to think of a new mount with the ledboard closer to where the heat is removed, but I’m thinking of a new integrating sphere also so that will be a combined design and not likely to happen in the near future, if only because I’m rather low on cash and like to spend what I have on other things too.

Crumbled white flat 2mm seems overheated or cooked for long time and while it was in that ultra hot state of matter some kind of pressure with some metal thingy was applied… Also specks of dirt everywhere(too much flux or solder paste) in fact if any of you guys got burning crater inside emitter(especially dedomed one) I would say that in 80% of case it means that hot speck of dirt got sucked into phosphor.

It is nice to see under skin of such emitter. I like that.

G2 looks like hot de dome failure since pressure was applied on wire which eventually broke.

This one looks good. It has L4P DTP and your testing rig seems better than any flashlight diy test(luxmeter clampmeter) so I don’t see any possible failure reason.

Hmmm… Why should anyone be disappointed with new White Flat 2mm ?

-Better lumen and lux performance than G2 (How much? I guess you guys will find out in your builds)
-Better Tint
-Low Vf
-No need for dedoming
-Probably no need for spring bypasses either?

So what is bad in that? :smiley:

Ok… I know what is bad in that. It is not suitable for mine single cell FET drivers(if they could be called drivers). To bad for me.

But I don’t see any reason not to put such type of emitter in regulated single or multicell mildly driven host?? Beautifull emitter better than any Cree :stuck_out_tongue:

LOL, in this case what you see is not what you get, both leds work perfectly fine. That XP-G2 is not broke, in fact it happily did 235 kcd in my mini-GT. And the mini-GT is to blame for both leds, its centering ring is so tight in the reflector that the twisting action of the bezel when opening/closing it already sheared off two leds and cracked that PM1 led.

OK that also sounds logical :slight_smile: Except that decisive pic of g2 with broken wire which in fact is not broken.

“Wounded and still working” :+1:

Sounds like the 7135 died.

If the switch-led report is correct, the led still failed to light up while the ramp was well into the section that the FET was used (2 blinks after halting the ramp up). In that case there’s more to it than a dying 7135.

Those 7135 chips can handle some low voltage btw, I have made an infrared sk68 once (working voltage around 1.8V) with a 8x7135 driver that functioned fine with the 8 chips all burning off close to 2 Volts (I did take care of a good heat path for the chips).

djozz, I just noticed something about your test. You tested the XP-G2 S4 2B with dome on. De-Domed it only goes to 1100lm according to koef3’s test. You numbers of the new Osram are very close to his of the Q8WP, both LEDs are much better than the XP-G2 de-domed.

6.5A seems to be about the sweet spot for the KW CSLPM1-TG (white2 as vinh calls it). I wouldn’t go above that when driving it with a buck driver inside a light that heats up.

I did comment under the graph that the XP-G2 S4 2B test was tested with dome on, and also included that the PM1 clearly outperforms the dedomed version that puts out 10% less.

I must have missed that :person_facepalming: :+1:

I just found some info regarding the luminance of these two LEDs which allows us to calucate the luminance value at any current based on the lumens:

CSLNM1.TG: 108cd, 325lm, 1,0609mm2 => 101,8cd/mm2 => 0,313cd/mm2 per lumen

CSLPM1.TG: 171cd, 515lm, 1,9875mm2 => 86cd/mm2 => 0,167cd/mm2 per lumen

Am I the only one person here that have dizziness of all that numbers and names like clsmngt1tuturbo etc. ?

It is confusing, Osram doesn’t have good names for them.
We basically have a 1mm^2 white flat, 2mm^2 white flat, and the boost HX which is just a bigger version of the 2mm^2 white flat.

I really don’t know how I am getting 400 plus kcd in Brinyte B158? Magic? :slight_smile: Bad lux meter which usually under reads dedomed XP-G2 S4 2B with greenish tint (confirmed by you) is possible reason since white flat 1mm is more blueish?

So if B158 goes from 330kcd(g2) to 430kcd(WF1mm) so that is 30%? Yesterday I sold one with same numbers… Same applies for Mitko Super thrower(430kcd! )…

Looks brighter. Throws further in a night…? Strange indeed…

Boost HX I like that name because it relaxes my brain.

Very confusing, but liked KW CSLPM1.TG – 2mm2 :person_facepalming: a lot in C8+.

Is there any reasonable 60-70mm reflector or aspheric still in production that isn’t like $125+?

I did see this which looks like a slightly modified version of some other generic lights:

http://ylplight.com/en/katalog/1/ballista-30/

So I put a 2mm² version in my Amutorch JM70.
I don’t trust my intensity numbers, but at 5m my “ceilingbounce” app says :
Before (XP-L HI) : 270kCd
After (CSLPM1.TG) : 555kCD ?!
Same distance, same phone, same all except for the LED… awesome !

I also put a 1mm² in my Cometa :
Before (FET driver + XP-L HI) 200 kCd
After (2,8A 8*7135 Biscotti driver + CSLNM1.TG) : 280kCd

EDIT : My B158B now rocks an 1mm² one too, and a 2,8A Biscotti driver : 345kCd !

High current is not required to get some serious throw with this LED :smiley:

Seem that you managed to pump it up 105,56 % footballfields.
I modded my C8 up 80,88 % Convoy C8+ New look for an old favorite - #144 by Talpa
This is with calibrated luxmeter.