FW3A, a TLF/BLF EDC flashlight

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chadvone
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The Anduril I flashed onto my D4 goes into a lock on if you click 10 plus clicks from on. I would consider this a good thing, must power cycle to exit.

I don’t see myself using a factory reset, but it might be good for some.

zeroflow
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I think that was a big in an older version where too long click sequences just lock up the whole light.

That should be fixed by now

ToyKeeper
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chadvone wrote:
The Anduril I flashed onto my D4 goes into a lock on if you click 10 plus clicks from on. I would consider this a good thing, must power cycle to exit.

Since then, I completely rewrote the button input handling system. It’s now quite a bit smaller and also lacks bugs like the one you noted.

I still have a couple other bugs to hunt down, but they only affect lights with aux LEDs, so it’s not relevant for the FW3A. The other bugs are also incredibly rare, to the point that I can’t even make them happen on purpose, so it may take a while to confirm any fixes.

In any case, there is no more lock-up after long click sequences.

Random Dan
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nvanlaar wrote:
ToyKeeper wrote:

Also, I hope this answers some questions:

I don’t think these don’t look like the same bodies/tubes… where did the first image come from?


Perhaps since Lumintop only intended to test anodizing, they didn’t bother cutting actual threads? That’s why the tubes look different and why the parts couldn’t be threaded together.
chadvone
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Great, what version has been fixed? I am not sure it would be worth flashing again, Its not really an issue for me. I think it could be a handy feature.

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CRX wrote:
All is revealed Thumbs Up

(Or maybe not.. )
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chadvone wrote:
Great, what version has been fixed? I am not sure it would be worth flashing again, Its not really an issue for me. I think it could be a handy feature.

It’s probably not worth reflashing unless there are specific changes you care about. The event system rewrite has virtually no user-visible changes. Mostly, it just … doesn’t hang any more, and the lockout mode’s momentary moon now lights up on every press instead of just the first three.

Other recent changes include:

  • Fancier “blinking” mode for aux LEDs. Instead of being on high for 0.5s every 4s, it makes more of a clock tick or slow heartbeat pattern. (..oOo……o……oOo……o……oOo……o….. repeating)
  • Moved off mode’s aux LED config to “7 clicks from off” instead of hiding it inside lockout mode.
  • Added a moon timing hint, to help people time the button release correctly to stay at moon from off.
  • Added support for some new lights.
  • Fixed a stepped ramping corner case when two steps were exactly 128 levels apart.
  • Fixed a small thermal behavior corner case.
  • Broke and fixed sunset mode.
  • Added more documentation.
  • Source code and build system improvements which don’t affect functionality.

Most of this makes little or no difference to the user interface.

Looking forward, most of the stuff which needs to happen is just hardware support… but more visible changes could happen too:

  • Tint ramping (on the lantern, and any other dual-tint lights).
  • Factory reset function.
  • Make the ramp auto-reverse in more modes, not just the main ramps.
  • Rewrite the thermal regulation… again.
  • Improve interaction between LVP and aux LEDs.
  • Configurable timer for sunset mode.
  • Possibly make strobe duty cycle configurable, or add a randomized strobe.
  • Maybe other new stuff, depending on what new features appear in new hardware.
nvanlaar
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Random Dan wrote:
nvanlaar wrote:
I don’t think these don’t look like the same bodies/tubes… where did the first image come from?
Perhaps since Lumintop only intended to test anodizing, they didn’t bother cutting actual threads? That’s why the tubes look different and why the parts couldn’t be threaded together.

This sounds plausible.

“Facts don’t care about your feelings.”
~Ben Shapiro

cabfrank
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TK, really amazing.

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cabfrank wrote:
TK, really amazing.

she indeed is! 

find all available items in this list

i launched my new blog - all deals for members without MAP B$ Wink

find a short description about my idea here

 

if you want to buy a flashlight or battery for a better price: just send a mail - i will try to save you money!

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More progress on grey anodizing… I think this was the second attempt to get a nice dark grey color:

About the parts not being together, Neal tells me: “not the production item, they will cut some screws before assemble”.

So the theory seems to be correct. It looks weird because the threads aren’t there. If I understand correctly, the ano factory took these pictures. And since the threads are cut after anodizing (so they can carry current), it wouldn’t be possible to put things completely together at this stage.

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Thank you for clarifying that TK.

Also, that looks great! Love the dark grey ano! Thumbs Up

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djozz wrote:
Quote:
Also, I believe that Emisar D4 tests have shown that FET was not as inefficient as people predicted

A led driven to the max is inefficient for two causes: high current and high heat. A FET driver at PWMed lower modes has one cause (heat) removed so the led during the pulses runs at higher output than if at max continuously.

It really works like that. Example: I made a 18650 zoomie with a Osram KW CSLNM1-TG and FET+1 driver. If I use a high current cell it is overdriven at max resulting in angry blue light. But at slightly lower setting (so still high in the FET region of regulation) the led colour is normal. The led still receives the same current (but pulsed) so the difference I presume is caused by less heat.


OK, I found that:
http://budgetlightforum.com/comment/1168928#comment-1168928
ToyKeeper wrote:
djozz wrote:
the PWM is so fast that the peaks do not end up fully at 3A, this could be checked on a scope

IIRC, maukka scoped this on the D4 a few pages ago and found that theory to be true. The pulses have a slow enough rise and fall time to act as a very weak lowpass filter, so short pulses never reach full height. (edit: scoped output, but that works because the LED activation time is much faster than the FET driving it)


Still…is it caused by FET model? Battery chemistry? Something in the circuit?
ToyKeeper
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Agro wrote:
…is it caused by FET model? Battery chemistry? Something in the circuit?

I think it may be caused by a small resistor in the circuit which is specifically designed to take the edge off each FET pulse. This was done to prevent excess voltage spikes and electrical noise within the driver, but it also seems to have the effect of increasing FET efficiency slightly.

teacher
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ToyKeeper wrote:
More progress on grey anodizing… I think this was the second attempt to get a nice dark grey color:

About the parts not being together, Neal tells me: “not the production item, they will cut some screws before assemble”.

So the theory seems to be correct. It looks weird because the threads aren’t there. If I understand correctly, the ano factory took these pictures. And since the threads are cut after anodizing (so they can carry current), it wouldn’t be possible to put things completely together at this stage.

Thank you TK for the info & the picture…. that is looking good!! Thumbs Up

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Please add me to the list. One piece with LH351D emitter.
Thanks.

pinkpanda3310
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ToyKeeper wrote:

About the parts not being together, Neal tells me: “not the production item, they will cut some screws before assemble”.

So the theory seems to be correct. It looks weird because the threads aren’t there. If I understand correctly, the ano factory took these pictures. And since the threads are cut after anodizing (so they can carry current), it wouldn’t be possible to put things completely together at this stage.


Aah, that makes sense.

I’m not really fazed about the colour. So long as it insulates the sleeve where it’s supposed to. The pictured light must be proto 3 ?

I’m very happy that we’re getting some communication now.

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pinkpanda3310 wrote:

(snip)

I’m very happy that we’re getting some communication now.

Amen!! Thumbs Up

Thank you TK for picking up the communication sharing roll on this ‘Group Buy’!!

I can only imagine how difficult that has been for you since you were virtually receiving no information to share with us until recently.

Your efforts are noted & appreciated.

For without your efforts I imagine most of us mortals would be completely ‘in the dark’ concerning the FW3A.

      You never know how a horse will pull until you hook him up to a heavy load. / Paul "Bear" Bryant ~/~\~ "Slow is Smooth, Smooth is Fast"

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Tjohn
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ToyKeeper wrote:
More progress on grey anodizing… I think this was the second attempt to get a nice dark grey color….

Hopefully there is a cold blue steel tone to the original, similar to what is seen on my old Nokia 830 dumb phone.
If so, would some call it ‘gun metal’ ?

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ToyKeeper wrote:
More progress on grey anodizing… I think this was the second attempt to get a nice dark grey color:


Did they mention whether the dark lines/overlap are now gone or perhaps hidden? If so, I’d call it a successfull compromise and move forward.

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Well, it’s still a nice looker, despite it not being clear or light grey dyed.

2Q19

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Right you are Jerommel, it IS a nice looking light, just not the light we signed up for in the beginning.

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IMO other than the electronic switch I honestly don’t see watt all the hoopla is about this flash vs watts already out there.

Outwardly IMO it’s an average design with essentially a TI patina. Ok. Woo hoo.

Now if it had a rotary mechanical sideswitch dimmer that was hidden behind a sliding cover that could give me some “hardness”. Or if heads with different led configurations were swappable by just unscrewing then yeah definely woo hoo. Basically a glorified P60. Or magnetic charging, woo hoo.

For this amount of effort and angst I almost expect Bluetooth, a wireless remote, and a camera. Oh, and of course a talking free battery. LOL

Ya know watt? I guess I’m prolly unenLIGHTened.

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chadvone
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Yeah, its a big deal to me.

nottawhackjob
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chadvone wrote:
Yeah, its a big deal to me.

Ok I can see that. For me though I’m just kinda too old KISS fashioned on certain things.

To wit, a good precise uber reliable momentary switch (forward clicky) IS my electronic switch. LOL

Man, I’m dating myself. Wait that doesn’t sound right. Shocked

Don’t forget to turn off the lights. Flashlights work better that way.

“Wattever’s not worth doing to excess is not worth doing.” Notta

“Lanyards?! Lanyards?! We don’t need no stinking lanyards!”

“Be skeptical. Question everything. There are plenty around who SOUND like they really know a lot butt in reality are significantly FOS.” Notta

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What a wonderful offer tatasal! I can’t accept it though, you hold onto that beauty and enjoy it please.

PM sent….

cabfrank
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Nottawhackjob, the size and the firmware are elite for an edc. That is what does it for me. I suppose you are correct in that it is not a giant leap ahead, because of the Emisar, which is similar in some ways. I like them both, but have been holding off, waiting for this one.

SKV89
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CRX wrote:

Well, instead of waiting around or moaning about the FW3A’s production  I had to get creative and make my own version ;)

The more I look at this the nicer this looks. I like the quad better than triple. Perhaps Lumintop should make a FW4A since there isn’t a rear clicky quad in existence and it will be more efficient. Perhaps use 21700 batteries instead of 18650.

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That would be great, after this one.

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pinkpanda3310 wrote:
ToyKeeper wrote:

About the parts not being together, Neal tells me: “not the production item, they will cut some screws before assemble”.

So the theory seems to be correct. It looks weird because the threads aren’t there. If I understand correctly, the ano factory took these pictures. And since the threads are cut after anodizing (so they can carry current), it wouldn’t be possible to put things completely together at this stage.


Aah, that makes sense.

I’m not really fazed about the colour. So long as it insulates the sleeve where it’s supposed to. The pictured light must be proto 3 ?

I’m very happy that we’re getting some communication now.

+1 Thumbs Up

“Facts don’t care about your feelings.”
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