Hmm… I dont’ have a flashlight with LH351D LED yet. Maybe can ask Hank to do a D4S with LH351D, preferably 80CRI or higher CRI (somewhere 4000K or 5000K or the mixed tint that TK mentioned, if the color temperature isn’t available…) Anyone else interested in such a configuration?
I understand the LH351D will be floody (I find the D4S quite throwy actually with its existing LEDs…)
The SST-20-W 95CRI with HD2 tint bin from KD looks great. I’ve installed a bunch of them in single emitter and triple emitter (Wuben TO10R, TO46R) lights and they are second only to the E21A 3000k. At lower output, they are kind of yellow (above BBL) and at high output, they become rosy (below BBL). At very high output mode, they look as good as the E21A.
Please don’t use the LH351D unless it’s the T1, T2, T3, or T4 tint bin. The current supposedly below the BBL tint bins on the market looks yellow/green. On my Noctigon M43, the LH351D 4000k 90CRI looks ugly green shining through those Carclo triple optics. The XP-L HI 5D and especially the XP-G2 5D tint looks WAAAYYY better.
I’m really curious if someone know the SST-20 tint bins offered by Hank. I need to know the tint bin before I make a purchase. Whether it is HI CRI or super bright or throwy, if the tint is greenish it is no good to me.
Wow. This thread is super active… intl outdoor has been great for me. I received the lights quickly… i might need to get another d4s sst20 5000k or 6500k…
Were those confirmed by Hank? I’m impressed with the high flux bin. In comparison, KD sells the exact same tint bin but one flux bin under.
4000K: J4 FB4
3000K: J3 HD2
However, I wish they could have gotten a rosier tint bin for the 4000K. Fireflies uses the FA3 tint bin and is still slightly yellow. FB4 is one tint bin greener.
I wish the 4000K was a rosier bin too, but I can live with FB4 with a filter over it. I’ve put Zircon 804 over the 4000K from Kaidomain before and it’s nice.
Great info thanks. Zircon filter reduces output by almost 20% though, so that negates the 10% flux bin advantage over the J4 flux bin of the KD and Fireflies SST-20 4000k
I actually prefer the 70 CRI Samsung LH351D in 5000K, W6 binning… it’s the most powerful I have found and the color is closest to pure white I’ve seen, preferable to the 80 CRI 5000K in my opinion. My D4S has these and runs at 5834 lumens rested (start value)
[literally took it off the shelf and measured it right before posting]
Hank was so kind to tell me the bin codes for the SST-20 5.000K and 6.500K. I took the liberty to write down how to understand those bin codes. However, I also stumbled upon different flux and tint bins in the same overall bin code. Maybe someone with more experience can explain what that's supposed to mean.
D4S with SST-20 3.000K
SST-20-W30H-A120-J2302(J4-VH-HD2)
► W30H: W = White, 30 = 3000K, H = 95CRI
► A120: Soldering Pad Type A, 120° viewing angle
► J2302: J2 = flux bin (min. 102 lm @ 350mA, 25°C), 302 = tint bin (HD2)
► VH = minimum Vf with 2.5V
D4S with SST-20 4.000K
SST-20-W40H-A120-J4402(J5-VH-FB4)
► W40H: W = White, 40 = 3000K, H = 95CRI
► A120: Soldering Pad Type A, 120° viewing angle
► J4402: J4 = flux bin (min. 118 lm @ 350mA, 25°C), 402 = tint bin (FB4)
► VH = minimum Vf with 2.5V
D4S with SST-20 5.000K
SST-20-WDS-A120-L2501(L3-VK-DA)
► WDS: W = White, D = Daylight White, S = 65CRI
► A120: Soldering Pad Type A, 120° viewing angle
► L2501: L2 = flux bin (min. 172 lm @ 350mA, 25°C), 501 = tint bin (DA)
► VK = minimum Vf with 2.9V
D4S with SST-20 6.500K
SST-20-WCS-A120-L3652(L3-VL-BA)
► WCS: W = White, C = Cool White, S = 65CRI
► A120: Soldering Pad Type A, 120° viewing angle
► L3652: L3 = flux bin (min. 180 lm @ 350mA, 25°C), 652 = tint bin (BA)