Sorta. ToyKeeper has explained it all in intricate detail before but the FET kicks in with PWM over the ceiling of the 7135… the 7135 keeps putting out 100% along with the increasing level of the FET right up until level 7, where the 7135 is cut off and it’s 100% FET.
Not so easy to say how many lumens the 350mA of the 7135 chip produces as that number will be dependent on the emitter used, cell used, efficiency of the circuit, a number of things.
Edit: Mine (GT Mini) has a Samsung LH351D 80 CRI 5000K emitter and makes 168 lumens at the 7135 chip ceiling , from an LG HG6 20650 cell well rested.
EditII: Another light using an XP-L HI from a 26650 makes 164 lumens, also well rested using a LiitoKala Black.
EditIII: My little TK05 using a 14500 cell and the 80 CRI Samsung makes 156 lumens at the top of the 7135 chip.
EditIV: On an extreme end, my 458 Ham’r is making 862 lumens at the top of the 7135 chip output.
While we are talking about a single emitter here, my Quad D1S makes 531 on the ceiling of the 7135 chip. So there are indeed variables…
Thanks JasonWW for reading every post in this thread and setting me str8 on the misprinted manual. I only recently received this light I have not had a chance to dismantle it.
I do like the light but the error/glitch in the UI is annoying.
I see what you mean. The fact of the matter is that a dbl clk is not designed to return to the previous level. I think it’s just a glitch that it does (assuming you have blinkies disabled and are below the ramp top).
The solution is to just slow down your button presses. Don’t try to dbl click. Just let the light turn off and back on. This is how all my other Narsil based lights works.
Or, if you like that ability, don’t run it at the top of the ramp. Run it just below the top.
The original GT also has a glitch ,if you click 3 times for the battery volt check then click to exit,
If you turn the light on within a few seconds the gt will switch off but it acts normal if you wait a few more seconds befor turning on.
I am happy to report i recieved replacement head from Neal’s gadgets. Switch feels alot different and has great tactile response. So far no problems. Consider my issue resolved
Unless I missed someone, I count 17 people to date who have posted about switch problems. They are….
djozz // Reported RESOLVED
mortuus // RESOLVED
teacher // RESOLVED
RobertB // Reported RESOLVED
………
gabo // RESOLVED
Cereal_killer /
Jhicks2018 // RESOLVED
P33 / // RESOLVED (“partial refund” reported)
Coyotehawk
X3 / // RESOLVED (PayPal dispute refund)
illuminos
Silent_Star /
Juheebus / // RESOLVED (Replacement head)
mb200k
Pulstar // RESOLVED
A92AA0B03E / // RESOLVED (Replacement head)
komeko // RESOLVED
Anyone else having any type GT Mini switch problems besides the people I mentioned above??
……… List updated. Pulstar & komeko RESOLVED, 30 December 2018
Not a problem with the switch but inside the head of one of my GT mini’s (I bought 4 from Neal) something is rattling. I reported this to Neal. He asked for a video which I sent him a few days ago. So far he didn’t reply yet.
No, the centering ring for the reflector isn’t missing. Unfortunately I can’t get the bezel off because it seems glued and I don’t want to damage the finish.
About the only other thing I can think of would be a completely loose anti rotation screw. If that’s the case, there is a chance it could create a short between the positive lead and the reflector.
If the centering ring is there, maybe the o-ring is missing. Assuming the o-ring applies pressure to the lens and reflector. You might add a little heat to the bezel (hair dryer, heat gun, etc…) and see if you can loosen it.