Luminus SST-20-W 4000 K CRI95 color and output test

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Jerommel
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contactcr wrote:
I shaved the dome on my SST-20 4000K E2L triple. It does appear to have made it slightly less green at the expense of not very much loss of CCT. I expected more anyways. I think it’s throwy enough with the dome on though so I wish a different tint existed but you get what you get Smile

Here is a comparison, both have smooth narrow optic using lightly used 30Q/VTC6

SST20 4000K (SD)
14.2kcd
1750lm

and for reference:

XP-L HI V2 5D
14.7kcd
2230lm

This is good to know.
So it’s like the 351D.
Shaving makes it shift a little towards red.
djozz
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But the LH351D has no bond wires so you can shave it right onto the phosfor resulting in a larger tint shift and higher throw increase.

Barkuti
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I had an LH351D 4000K CRI90+ with solder remnants on its pads after an aborted reflow. Decided to give it a try as pretty sure the emitter was in good condition, and thus I grabbed it by the dome with my flat nose pliers and applied heat gently with my iron's flat tip at ≈210°C and… voilà! Instantly dedomed too:

 

 

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contactcr
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Where did you apply the heat?

Pavlo
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wstrachan wrote:
High CRI and minuscule tint shift is great but it seems to take high current numbers to reach just a hare under 1100 lumens. 6.7A at near 4 volts (26W+). I don’t really see the purpose over other emitters (Nichia, XML’s, XPG).

Thanks for your reply.

I am interested in the use of this LED in two specific lights, the Noctigon Meteor M43 and the D4S.

The M43 uses a Boost driver, meanwhile the D4S uses a combination of Linear + Fet.

If I understand correctly, the Boost driver will benefit from a lower Vf LED and thus be much more efficient with a Nichia over the SST20?
Meanwhile, in a Linear + Fet, I have been reading that a low Vf LED like the Nichia pulls alot of current and expels alot of its energy in heat. Does that mean the SST20 will be more efficient in a light like the D4S using a linear Driver and Fet?

Apologies for all the questions, still a little unclear.

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@Pavlo, the difference in efficiency between the 219C and SST-20 in a regulated light is small. Knowing the SST-20 has better tint, more throw and slightly better color quality, I would get the SST-20 in this case.

In a FET light, the Nichia 219C version will actually be brighter because of slightly higher efficiency and more current. However, it will get hotter.

I would get the SST-20 again here.

My very own high current Beryllium Copper springs Gen 3:
http://budgetlightforum.com/node/67401
Liitokala Aliexpress Stores Battery Fraud: http://budgetlightforum.com/node/60547

Barkuti
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contactcr wrote:
Where did you apply the heat?

Where the solder remnants were, my intention was to remove the solder from the emitter pads (it had a lot).

 

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Pavlo
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BlueSwordM wrote:
@Pavlo, the difference in efficiency between the 219C and SST-20 in a regulated light is small. Knowing the SST-20 has better tint, more throw and slightly better color quality, I would get the SST-20 in this case.

In a FET light, the Nichia 219C version will actually be brighter because of slightly higher efficiency and more current. However, it will get hotter.

I would get the SST-20 again here.

Thanks BlueSwordM.

Math aside, your explanation sums it up nicely.

eas
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I put 4000k SST-20s in my D4S, replacing the Nichia 219C’s that I bought it with. It had exactly the result I wanted; the tint is better (less green), and the beam is less floody that it was.

Pavlo
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eas wrote:
I put 4000k SST-20s in my D4S, replacing the Nichia 219C’s that I bought it with. It had exactly the result I wanted; the tint is better (less green), and the beam is less floody that it was.

Cool! Did you notice the drop in output or does the tighter beam give you the impression that it’s brighter? Also, how’s the color rendering compared to 219c? Big improvement?

eas
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I think the output should be within 5-10% of stock, not enough difference to to notice. The tighter beam is easy to notice, and the intensity and resulting throw is obvious, too.

As for the color rendering, I wouldn’t say its obviously different than the 219c, both are so much better than the average Cree 70+ CRI emitter. I only have one D4s, so I can’t do side by side comparisons. One thing stood out for me yesterday, though. I got an nichia Astrolux S43S. On its own, the tint seemed fine. But, when I decided to compare the output and intensity side by side with my SST-20 D4s it was obvious how green tinted the Nichia’s were. This was true even at lower output levels (the SST-20s seem to get much rosier at max power). The Nichia’s are 5000K, while the SST-20s are 4000K, but still…

I highly recommend replacing the 219cs in the D4S with SST-20s. I’ll probably do it in my S43S, if I decide it’s worth the trouble.

EasyB
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I ordered some of these from KD and I plan to make a high CRI D4. This will be my first high CRI light.

I don’t have a strong opinion regarding the greenness or rosiness of a tint, but I’m looking forward to seeing the color rendering advantages. The only time I’ve really noticed bad color rendering is with cree 1A cool tint that seems to not have enough red-like colors.

Pavlo
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Thanks for the feedback and additional input!
Excited to try these SST20’s out.

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This is my first triple, with a Convoy S2+ Desert Tan host, MTN FET+7135 Driver, triple SST-20 4000K and a Carclo 10507.

The coloring rendering ability of these emitters are excellent, but when comparing it side by side with my friend’s 219B SW40 R8000, my tint appears to be yellow, and of course, his tint is noticeably rosier. I’m not sure how much my AR-coated lens affect the tint, it’s the type of coating with some sort of red reflection rather then the more common purple/ blue one. I tried comparing the tints with and without the AR-coated lens, but I hardly notice any difference.

Umm, I want lumens but I want CRI too...

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How are you doing with SST-20 dedoming?

I recently tried razor blade dedoming over turpentine bathed emitters (dome softening up) and it seems to work well. The turpentine bath did not do much on an old XM-L first generation softening up wise, it was done for 2 to 3 days but at refrigerator temp (I like the smell of turpentine in my fridge Big Smile LoL).

 

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maukka
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I got a supposed FA1 tint bin from TA and it ended up being very similar to the FB4 tested in the OP. Actually a bit worse…

hodor
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maukka wrote:
I got a supposed FA1 tint bin from TA and it ended up being very similar to the FB4 tested in the OP. Actually a bit worse…

TA?

Thanks for the test. I’m looking forward to the day a nice tint bin is available for this emitter.

In case anyone’s interested, led4power has it in FC1 bin.

Pöbel
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I have some of these FC1 and unfortunately the hulk-factor is strong with this one. With high currents they are fine, but low currents are terrible

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Pöbel wrote:
…hulk-factor…
LOL

Every SST I’ve tried has some hulk in them Sad

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My SST-20s(FB4) also have some hulk factor at lower currents, and at higher currents the beam is noticeably yellow through the Carclo 10507. I feel like 319A gives a cleaner light and 219C is only slightly green?

Umm, I want lumens but I want CRI too...

contactcr
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the 3000K and 3500K aren’t green but they are slightly yellow sometimes and quite a bit lower flux bin

maukka
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Higher duv is green on higher CCTs and yellow on lower CCTs. Same thing.

Pöbel
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what would the ugly child of 3000k + 4000k, both slightly high duv look like?

Big Smile

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But seriously, it could be nicely ending up on top of the BBL Smile

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Pöbel wrote:
what would the ugly child of 3000k + 4000k, both slightly high duv look like?

Big Smile

Something like this? LOL

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Big Smile Big Smile Big Smile

I guess I’ll have to try and see it myself

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I wonder how came this emitter was so highly rated initially. Did worse batches hit the market? Or did we not understand it enough?

Does dedoming improve tint significantly? I ask partially because I’ve seen a mention of SFT-20-W on Luminus website and in several other places….this would be SST-20 but flat from the factory.

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Pöbel wrote:
what would the ugly child of 3000k + 4000k, both slightly high duv look like?

Big Smile

It might become better.

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Agro wrote:
I wonder how came this emitter was so highly rated initially. Did worse batches hit the market? Or did we not understand it enough?

Does dedoming improve tint significantly? I ask partially because I’ve seen a mention of SFT-20-W on Luminus website and in several other places….this would be SST-20 but flat from the factory.

I think the negative comments on the SST-20 are in comparison to other emitters that have GREAT tint. When compared to other Cree emitters or recent 219C 5000K it is still pretty nice.

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I think I have lights with 3000K 3500K and 4000K. I could try mixing them by just shining on a wall but problem is they are different output and reflector/tir.

If I recall the 3500K looks fairly good on its own (from Mouser / BlueSword) so if you haven’t purchased emitters yet I would suggest trying that over buying 2 emitters you know you dont like.

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