Candela is only influenced by the front surface area of the reflector (as seen from the position of the hotspot) and the luminance of the LED. The depth of a reflector for a given outer diameter has a neglible effect on the front surface area (because the area of a circle increases with the square of the radius).
I have been wondering about this… how hard is it to get the CSLNM1.TG on an XP sized board? I know there are issues with excess solder from what I have read…
Is it just me, or is it a difficult thing to judge the white flats vs. the black flat? Seems like in theory the white flats should have better throw, but in practical mods, every head to head I've seen the black flat prevails. This thread mostly compares the white flat to the good dedomed XP-G2 but I don't see apples to apples comparison in a real host to the black flat.
I understand the difficulties with the black flat with electrical isolation, but still, in a decent thrower host, has anyone proven the white is better than the black? Is it dependent on the host or maybe spending the time/effort on focusing a white flat for a particular reflector? Why would the white flat be more difficult to focus?
I’m going to try putting the white flat into another flashlight with one of my 120mm lenses so I’ll let you know how much improvement I get over the optofire once it’s done.
focus should be the same cant be that, maybe those LEDs are a tiny bit different in height but this should be so minimal not making a big difference
the main problem is getting this ultra low Vf LED driven at a current below 4.5A, DD driver cant do it even with Medium drain pulls too much
enderman measured at acceptable current about 300cd/mm² and 600 with collar, but this of course to the fact he uses a regulated supply
same measurement numbers on other testers
Not sure why, but the old tricks of simply adding resistance by using thin, long LED wires and higher resistance batteries should do the trick. The springs you have to be careful with because even 5 amps on cheap wires may be a problem. I'd choose to use the high quality Blue springs for example, and would rather up the resistance on the wires. Of course it would be better to have a great regulated driver but that's not so easy or cheap as a FET based driver.
It's like those cheap SRK's that have the squiggle line traces all over the big driver -- they are only doing that to add resistance - bypassing the traces is an easy power boost.
Example in a 12X SRK clone (added jumper to circumvent the squiggles):
Agree, not the best solution but it works, just like any other FET based driver we have in all the popular lights as of late (Emisar, Fireflies, Sofirn. etc.). On all of them you get the max on full cells, then slowly drops - sorry, but it's our only/best solution for a reasonable cost.