What did you mod today?

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MRsDNF
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Wow. Shocked Love your work. Thumbs Up

 

djozz quotes, "it came with chinese lettering that is chinese to me".

                      "My man mousehole needs one too"

old4570 said "I'm not an expert , so don't suffer from any such technical restrictions".

Old-Lumens. Highly admired and cherished member of Budget Light Forum. 11.5.2011 - 20.12.16. RIP.

 

Tom E
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Cereal_killer wrote:
Not something I physically created today but I did the layout on this 15mm Utorch S1 3 channel driver. 1+4x7135+FET built for Anduril. Probably the most insane routing job I've ever had to do. Space was at such a premium I had to put a resistor under the Tiny85 ...

I "think" I have an S1 and would be very interested in this as well, thanx CK!!

You probably know this, but I think the most important parts are the C1 cap and the R5 resistor (4.7 before the diode). That 4.7 was the key to cleaning up the signals, DEL discovered. Not sure if the 47 ohm and 100K are that super important. Of course the diode itself is optional, but adds reverse polarity protection.

I'm not a fan of the triple channels - I prefer the simpler FET+1. I had a lot of troubles getting the FET+bank+1 ramping looking smooth and it's still not that smooth. Not sure if TK worked out the kinks in Anduril, but if she did, would love to see how. I believe, not sure, she overlaps the channel transitions which may have smoothed it out. The NarsilM FET+1 tables ramp great, but the triple has a noticeable transition. Of course to create the ramping tables, I used TK's tool, a Python script, to build them. The other major problem with triples is they use up my limited supply of eagleclaw 7135's.

Not a problem because I can still use this driver as a FET+1 with NarsilM v1.3.

Cereal_killer
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Tom E wrote:

You probably know this, but I think the most important parts are the C1 cap and the R5 resistor (4.7 before the diode). That 4.7 was the key to cleaning up the signals, DEL discovered. Not sure if the 47 ohm and 100K are that super important. Of course the diode itself is optional, but adds reverse polarity protection.>

I left C2 off already, now I was thinking about excluding R3 (100K FET Pull-down) cause worst case you could add it across the FET’s S & G legs if it not being there ended up being detrimental somehow. That’d let me move R4 to R3’s position getting it out from under the MCU.

 RIP  SPC Joey Riley, KIA 11/24/14. Now I am become death, the destroyer of worlds.

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I'd go by DEL's 17 mm design here: https://oshpark.com/shared_projects/qsbLVgh0

He eliminates the least needed components, C2 and the 47 ohm in line to the FET gate, but kept in the 100K. I know he had a specific order of priority and definitely that 4.7 ohm guy before the diode was very important. Before DEL's design in of the 4.7, it was hit and miss whether a 25/45/85 would work or not. Richard at MtnE had a different approach that worked but DEL's design is better, as proved on the scope.

Ohh, fyi. The classic 8x7135 ATtiny13A driver design was out of spec for the 13A, but seemed to always work. The 25/45/85's turned out to be more finicky/sensitive, so that's why the 4.7 ohm is needed -- it should have been in the classic 13A 105C/105D boards all along.

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I think what I’ll do is net the two R4 pads together, that way if anything is wrong (doubtful but still…) I can cut the trace and solder the resistor in place later.

Edit:

djozz wrote:
… but then I saw that even in that small gap is a trace running.

Welp I’m an idiot…

My first thought was 0402’s but nixed that right away. better think again

 RIP  SPC Joey Riley, KIA 11/24/14. Now I am become death, the destroyer of worlds.

chadvone
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Stuck a Lexel TA driver and a Luxeon V2 (3000k) into my Wowtac A2. Got to break in my Zeny soldering station.
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Follow on …

MRsDNF
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Sweet. Love the centre. Did you make the adaptor?

 

djozz quotes, "it came with chinese lettering that is chinese to me".

                      "My man mousehole needs one too"

old4570 said "I'm not an expert , so don't suffer from any such technical restrictions".

Old-Lumens. Highly admired and cherished member of Budget Light Forum. 11.5.2011 - 20.12.16. RIP.

 

pc_light
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Pinkpanda, nice stuff, will continue to what with excitment (and envy.)

Enjoyed your earlier 21700 light as well, hope you finally got some cells to power that beauty Wink

————————

Reflowed a couple of SST-20 4000K 95+CRI into a CF8… now its warm and tight, the way I like it (but probably not as bright on Max.)

Move towards the light.

pinkpanda3310
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MRsDNF wrote:
Sweet. Love the centre. Did you make the adaptor?

Yeh, I made the adaptor because I didn’t want to use the body to hold the head for turning as it is a soft metal. The head is ti.

pc_light wrote:
Pinkpanda, nice stuff, will continue to what with excitment (and envy.)

Enjoyed your earlier 21700 light as well, hope you finally got some cells to power that beauty Wink


Thanks mate. Yeh, I got a couple cells eventually for the 21700 light. Looking back now that was a pretty simple build in comparison to this one.
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Another day and another pocket destroyed by my Emisar D4. Oops! Even with my switch button trim I still had an accidental pocket activation. GRRRR.

To try to protect my remaining pants from the Emisar deep fry, this time I tried something new:

Flip up switch cover for Emisar D4.

  • The cover is made from 0.032” aluminum sheet for the main piece with 0.016” for the hinge.
  • The hinge pin is a piece of copper rod I had laying around bent into the shape of a staple.
  • I drilled 2 holes in the top of the head for the hinge pints. They aren’t very deep. Maybe 3 mm or so.
  • I used Fiberfix optical super glue to hold the whole thing together. I accidentally got some glue on the top of the switch boot. Looks unsightly but has no affect on operation so I’ll probably leave it.
  • The sides of the cover grip the sides of the head keeping the cover securly in position while closed.
  • I removed the anodizing from the aluminum head so it would match the aluminum cover. I also polished the bare aluminum on both the cover and the head.
  • When the cover is closed the switch cannot be depressed. The cover can be flipped up or down with a quick thumb action.

Hopefully this will protect my pants pockets from being burned.

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@pinkpanda3310
Really nice work! I envy you!!!!
A lathe could make things so much easier. But on the other hand it would end up in me spending much more hours now not only modding lights. No now i had to build them. Maybe i should be lucky to no longer having access to a lathe Big Smile

New LuckySun D80 looking good so far http://budgetlightforum.com/node/66255

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Firelight2 wrote:
Another day and another pocket destroyed by my Emisar D4. Oops! Even with my switch button trim I still had an accidental pocket activation. GRRRR.

To try to protect my remaining pants from the Emisar deep fry, this time I tried something new:

Flip up switch cover for Emisar D4.

  • The cover is made from 0.032” aluminum sheet for the main piece with 0.016” for the hinge.
  • The hinge pin is a piece of copper rod I had laying around bent into the shape of a staple.
  • I drilled 2 holes in the top of the head for the hinge pints. They aren’t very deep. Maybe 3 mm or so.
  • I used Fiberfix optical super glue to hold the whole thing together. I accidentally got some glue on the top of the switch boot. Looks unsightly but has no affect on operation so I’ll probably leave it.
  • The sides of the cover grip the sides of the head keeping the cover securly in position while closed.
  • I removed the anodizing from the aluminum head so it would match the aluminum cover. I also polished the bare aluminum on both the cover and the head.
  • When the cover is closed the switch cannot be depressed. The cover can be flipped up or down with a quick thumb action.

Hopefully this will protect my pants pockets from being burned.


What is with the electronic lockout? Doesnt it have this?
The lack of anodisation is not verry good for such a flashlight at all.
contactcr
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I finally took a beam shot that included the Luxeon MZ build from the below quote in case anyone was curious, far right:

WB=5500K, ISO=125

contactcr wrote:
Last MZ for a while..

25 degree TIR
kiriba-ru copper single
H17Fx driver

I think this TIR is probably the most narrow that could be used with the MZ without a donut. I’m sure anything wider or more diffused would be even better but I’d rather use a LH351D/219C/XP-L for anything wider so I opted not to.

My first time using kiriba-ru’s copper single and it’s great as always. Machining is nice, threads fit perfect. Thin ring is buttery smooth

Also first time using H17Fx. I will probably use this again when i’m too impatient to wait for Lexel Smile

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Some work on the tail…

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pinkpanda3310 wrote:
Some work on the tail…

Shocked That’s looking pretty nice Wink

REVIEWS: AMUTORCH: S3 / S3 vs 219c / AM30 / AX1 / VG10 /// SOFIRN: SF14 & SP10A / SP32A / SP10B /// NITEFOX: UT20 / ES10K / K3 /// ODEPRO: KL52 / B108 /// ACEBEAM: H20 /// BLITZWOLF: BlitzWolf BW-ET1 /// DQG: AA Slim Ti /// HC-LIGHTS: SS AAA /// XTAR: PB2 Charger /// OLIGHT: M2R Warrior /// WUBEN: TO10R / E05 / T70 /// ON THE ROAD: M1 / i3 / M3 Pro /// ROVYVON: A2 & A5R / E300S / A8 /// KLARUS: XT1C 

Tricks: 1 / 2 / 3 / 4 / 5 / 6 / 7 / 8  TIR Lenses: 1 / 2   Others: Biscotti 3 & 1*7135     Triple TIR & XP-G2

GIVEAWAY - 1

djozz
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Wieselflinkpro wrote:
The lack of anodisation is not verry good for such a flashlight at all.

The ti D4 does lock out with tail unscrewed because the current path does not use the cap, it goes directly from the insulated tailboard to the battery tube.
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I like this alot……. Love the tapered head! How much with shipping to the States when your done? Thumbs Up Edit: DIBS!

KB1428 “Live Life WOT

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I replaced the quad with a triple luxeon V2 and polished the body of my Sinner Gen1 aluminum host. Went from ~40% optics loss with the downsized quad to a respectable 16% optics loss with the unmolested carlco triple. Using 22AWG wire and no spring bypass its running 2.6A/led and doing 2563 lemons, down 2.6A and up 313lm from when it was a quad!

I’ve got pcb’s coming for a new driver for it, once those get here and I take it apart again I’m going to try to find a better fitting O-ring for the lens, I think that may be robbing a lemon or two (it’ll also get 18AWG then and spring bypasses for unrestricted turbo since it’s a 3ch driver so it’ll have a regulated high mode).

I like this one, it looks like how it looked before polishing but it was taken today, I had dropped it into the snow, picked it up and blew it off and it steamed up from my breath, not actually a before pic at all.

 RIP  SPC Joey Riley, KIA 11/24/14. Now I am become death, the destroyer of worlds.

MRsDNF
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KawiBoy1428 wrote:
I like this alot……. Love the tapered head! How much with shipping to the States when your done? Thumbs Up

!{width:80%}https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/v62ByeraN6Mwm04FXUShmdLBrr0Ko2JnowzspF...!


Shipping is a lot cheaper to me in Australia. Smile

Are you enjoying the build pp?

 

djozz quotes, "it came with chinese lettering that is chinese to me".

                      "My man mousehole needs one too"

old4570 said "I'm not an expert , so don't suffer from any such technical restrictions".

Old-Lumens. Highly admired and cherished member of Budget Light Forum. 11.5.2011 - 20.12.16. RIP.

 

KawiBoy1428
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MRsDNF wrote:
KawiBoy1428 wrote:
I like this alot……. Love the tapered head! How much with shipping to the States when your done? Thumbs Up

!{width:80%}https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/v62ByeraN6Mwm04FXUShmdLBrr0Ko2JnowzspF...!


Shipping is a lot cheaper to me in Australia. Smile

Are you enjoying the build pp?


True…but I edited my post….

KB1428 “Live Life WOT

MRsDNF
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Smile

 

djozz quotes, "it came with chinese lettering that is chinese to me".

                      "My man mousehole needs one too"

old4570 said "I'm not an expert , so don't suffer from any such technical restrictions".

Old-Lumens. Highly admired and cherished member of Budget Light Forum. 11.5.2011 - 20.12.16. RIP.

 

Tom E
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CK, nice mod! I've seen similar results with triples getting about the same as quads.

Ohhh - I received the first batch of 3 of the ZY-T11 clone OSHPark drivers and started on them. I cut down the small Blue BeCu springs, expanded the spring pads a bit (scraped off some surrounding soldermask). Also sanded down the edge of the board in front of the switch - not sure if it was necessary or not. Fitted the bare driver in - looks good so far. It's thicker than the stock driver but should be ok. In the past I've used the Maxtoch 26 mm MCPCB's and UCLp lenses from flashlightlens.com, but kind of drives up the cost of the mod. I've also used a copper slug of some sorts under the shelf, but the stock shelf isn't all that bad. These are old pics below:

KawiBoy1428
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Woke up this Bored and Stroked Surefire 6P with a Copper (kiriba-ru) P60 Quad (hand fit to a press fit) pill using Lumileds V2 2×5000k by 2×6500k on a Mtn Quad mcpcb, Mtn. FET+1 Infineon FET driver Guppydrv3 with 18awg Leads. A Surefire Z59 modded KAN9 tail cap Fwd. click, pulling just over 18amps at the tail for 4500+lms. on a VTC5A.

I Left the shoulder inside battery tube, (instead of boring thru) to retain/stop the battery from slamming into the driver, one of Blue’s springs in the tail cap with 18awg bypass covers the 6P’s six.

Borofloat double AR coated glass lens in the Z44 head.

A Wolf in Sheep’s clothing if you will…I used to have a Pro Built ( Corky’s Competition) 498 cubic inch Bored/Stroked (under the hood) Dual Quad Olds 442 in primer that was the same way…. Wink

KB1428 “Live Life WOT

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djozz wrote:
@Scallywag, I did that (but reflowed the V's on the stock board) and those 7 seconds are over 5000 lumen. You must love that! :D

 

Oh, I do... And it's a beautiful beam, too. 

EDC Rotation: ZL SC62 | Jaxman E2L XP-G2 5A | Purple S2+ XPL-HI U6-3A | D4 w/ Luxeon V | RRT-01 
"Back-Ups": EagTac D25C Ti | Olight S1 | Klarus Mini One Ti
L6 XHP70.2 P2 4000K FET+7135 | Jaxman M8 | MF02 | Blue S2+ w/ ML Special
In-progress: Supfire M6 3xXHP50.2 | Jaxman Z1 White Flat
Others: Nitecore EC23 | Nebo Twyst | Streamlight ProTac 1AA | TerraLux LightStar 100

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Body: Nitecore HC33
LED: XHP50 90CRI 4500K
Driver: Caerus 1.7h
Lens: Carclo 10140





MRsDNF
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Nice mod Tamagotchi. Do you have any more info on the driver?

 

djozz quotes, "it came with chinese lettering that is chinese to me".

                      "My man mousehole needs one too"

old4570 said "I'm not an expert , so don't suffer from any such technical restrictions".

Old-Lumens. Highly admired and cherished member of Budget Light Forum. 11.5.2011 - 20.12.16. RIP.

 

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Sorry I do not speak English.


Output 6V 2A
6 modes including moonlight and turbo
1 short click – on/off
press and hold to switch modes
2 short click for Turbo
PID thermal regulated outputs (turbo and max)
Battery capacity indicator and battery protection

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It looks great. I think I found it: Project Caerus

djozz
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Some very high end mods up there from Kawi and Tamagotchi !

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