73.93mm if i have it nice and flush. Several readings just above 74 too but I think it was crooked.
Battery is around 70.5mm
Driver side spring bypass is a pretty decent size blob but it’s only attached to the top of the spring and the spring will still flex a bit allowing the wire to compress into the driver. From ~4mm to 2mm
Well said SKV89 My two E07's have not arrived yet, but whatever I get I'm going to cut ff some slack as they created something pretty special here. Obviously there are many E07's that are working just fine and in time they will figure it all out. I have two rot66's, one with anduril and the other with narsilM and both are perfect after members here helped me figure out how to adjust the battery cage on one of them.
Received my clear ano Nichia 219. Oh man… Its perfect. Colour of light is good. Machining is so nice, feels good to touch. Can barely feel the machining with nails… Awsome. Switch needs to be pressed hard. Just perfect… Im happy, thanks FF
The tubes on both of my E07s are 73.93mm. However, the solder blob on the spring in one of the heads is a bit larger than the other, so the same battery sticks out more of the tube on that unit.
Given other people reporting tube length of 73.93mm, it seems the issue is not manufacturing/QC but simply that the design of the tube was spec’ed too short. I’d pay $5-$8 for a new 76mm tube so I can avoid the gap caused by inserting a copper ring in the tail cap.
There isn’t a factory reset function yet. I’ll probably add one at some point though… mostly so people can auto-calibrate the temperature sensor. The idea is to hold the e-switch and then tighten the tailcap to connect power, then keep holding for a few seconds to confirm a reset is desired. Then it should reset all config values and calibrate the current temperature based on the assumption that the light is about 21 C.
I took a quick stab at it last month for the FW3A, but it’s trickier there because it physically can’t have the button pressed until after power is connected.
Correct I compared them. The clear anodized version has small chamfers on the fins whereas the earlier colored versions have sharp edges. Guess they listened to your request.
The big blob of solder on the driver springs of my two lights costs >1.5mm of spring compression, maybe 2mm on one of them
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Edit: (that’s after I nipped off what was above the top of the springs)
Make sure the solder blob is only sticking to the top coil. If it sticks to the top and 2nd coil and keeps them from compressing that could cost you some space. Press on the spring with your finger, it needs to go about half way down. If it doesn’t make sure the bypass wire is able to go into the driver hole when pressed. If it binds up/is kinked that could be an issue too.
A bit more output. I agree though factory spring bypass is risky. They already use high current springs so it’s probably a smallish gain for a lot of risk with battery fitment and risk of breaking.