FW3A, a TLF/BLF EDC flashlight - SST-20 available, coupon codes public

Shouldn’t a Duv of 0.0052 be slightly greener than a typical CRI90 219C? Looking up a couple 219C measurements (MF01 and 219C GB), it seems like 0.003 is pretty typical.

I made a spreadsheet that does the same calc as steps.py as an easier way to figure out these levels. While not defaults, from some quick trial and error, here’s some suggestions that include Max 1x7135 as a discrete step:

Format: Ramp min, Ramp Max, # of Steps
1, 130, 7 (if you want to include moonlight)
22, 130, 6 (similar to default stepped ramp minimum of 20)
15, 140, 6 (higher ramped ceiling for smaller jump to turbo)

Excellent! That’s a small detail that means a lot to many of us.

If you have a chance to respond, how’s the feel of the body size-wise compared to the D4? The pictures don’t make it look much smaller, but I’m hoping the difference will be noticeable.

I’ll try to finish the review this week, but as of now, I’m impressed.

The stepped ramp starts at level 20 (PWM 19/255). A rough theoretical calculation would suggest, based on Maukka’s 3.6 lumen measurement, that the minimum moonlight is about 0.2 lumens, but I think in reality it tends to end up slightly lower than theory due to how 7135’s react at very low duty cycles.

Muggle mode ranges from level 22 to level 85 (about 20% of the 7x7135 channel). Again, theory only, I estimate that as roughly 5-300 lumens.

If an unprotected button top 30q barely fits, I hope another 1-2mm can be added to the length of the tube before they are manufactured.

it is a sample,they use the LEDs they are in stock
the production will use the 3D tint

Nope. A 30Q fits fine, but it will not be getting any host changes before production. Use unprotected cells only. Personally, I recommend the 35E cell, because it gives more runtime at every level except turbo, and the FW3A is not designed to operate at turbo for very long. It’s not a hot rod.

Thanks, this is good news! :slight_smile:

I have a feeling it won’t be long before someone turns it into one.

I didn’t mean to suggest the light support protected cells… I was just concerned about varying length of unprotected cells, similar to what is going on with the e07 and the 21700 cells.

If I understand correctly, the E07 issues aren’t really about the host design as much as the solder blob on the springs. Some have thicker blobs than others, which can cause battery fit issues at random. But the FW3A does not have bypassed springs, so it should be more consistent.

Put me down for 2, please!

Now THAT is a beautiful light! :heart_eyes: Thank you very much for the great pictures and info Maukka.

Put me down for one LH351D please.

Put me down for one, please.

Please add me to the list for 1.

This is super exiting, I can’t wait for mine!

I wonder about this, too – I realize it was always planned to be a lighter anodizing, but I personally prefer the darker gray, it just looks sexy ;D

Also I’d like to know how the knurling compares to the BLF A6, since the A6’s is somewhat smooth, not as sharp as some other lights I’ve held. Not like the knurling would make or break the deal for me, I’m just curious!

Thanks again to Toykeeper and everyone involved! You’re awesome.

The correct answer is BOTH because the difference in those pics is just a difference in lighting and/or camera settings. :wink:

Please add me for one.

Huh, how about that! I’d have bet money the ano color actually changed lol. I guess most of us know those brown boxes with the white foam, so comparing to those I’m expecting a somewhat lighter gray. Thanks for clarifying!

I will take one please.

please add me for another one. order #103

thanks.

Put me down for one

Yes, all versions of the light will use this frosted lens. It can be polished clear for less spill light and more throw if that’s what you want. Or simply replace the lens.