FW3A, a TLF/BLF EDC flashlight - SST-20 available, coupon codes public

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Yourrid
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maukka wrote:


Now THAT is a beautiful light! Love Thank you very much for the great pictures and info Maukka.

cdjaney
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Put me down for one LH351D please.

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Shelton55
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Put me down for one, please.

donthelegend
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Please add me to the list for 1.

Streamtronics
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This is super exiting, I can’t wait for mine!

timbo114 wrote:
So I wonder now, which is going to be the true production anno color…


I wonder about this, too – I realize it was always planned to be a lighter anodizing, but I personally prefer the darker gray, it just looks sexy ;D

Also I’d like to know how the knurling compares to the BLF A6, since the A6’s is somewhat smooth, not as sharp as some other lights I’ve held. Not like the knurling would make or break the deal for me, I’m just curious!

Thanks again to Toykeeper and everyone involved! You’re awesome.

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Streamtronics wrote:
This is super exiting, I can’t wait for mine!

timbo114 wrote:
So I wonder now, which is going to be the true production anno color…


I wonder about this, too – I realize it was always planned to be a lighter anodizing, but I personally prefer the darker gray, it just looks sexy ;D

Also I’d like to know how the knurling compares to the BLF A6, since the A6’s is somewhat smooth, not as sharp as some other lights I’ve held. Not like the knurling would make or break the deal for me, I’m just curious!

Thanks again to Toykeeper and everyone involved! You’re awesome.


The correct answer is BOTH because the difference in those pics is just a difference in lighting and/or camera settings. Wink

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wolfstyle
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Please add me for one.

Streamtronics
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DavidEF wrote:
The correct answer is BOTH because the difference in those pics is just a difference in lighting and/or camera settings. Wink

Huh, how about that! I’d have bet money the ano color actually changed lol. I guess most of us know those brown boxes with the white foam, so comparing to those I’m expecting a somewhat lighter gray. Thanks for clarifying!

CC268
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I will take one please.

jonxxn
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please add me for another one. order #103

thanks.

PeasFull
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Put me down for one

JasonWW
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Jambo wrote:

One question please, will all the XPL HI versions have a frosted flood lens?


Yes, all versions of the light will use this frosted lens. It can be polished clear for less spill light and more throw if that’s what you want. Or simply replace the lens.

Texas Ace Lumen Tube and JoshK Sphere calibrated with Maukka lights

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Satan@103TFS
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I’m on No.875 add one more for me please

teacher
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JasonWW wrote:
Jambo wrote:

One question please, will all the XPL HI versions have a frosted flood lens?

Yes, all versions of the light will use this frosted lens. It can be polished clear for less spill light and more throw if that’s what you want. Or simply replace the lens.
Technically, I believe you will find it is the plastic ‘Optic’ that is frosted…. not the glass lens.
.

You never know how a horse will pull until you hook him up to a heavy load./"Bear" Bryant 

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JasonWW
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I assume people know that the optic is a lens and I’m taking about polishing the plastic part made by Carlco and not the glass part.

Plastic = can sand/polish

Glass = leave alone, do not scratch or damage

I assume this. Hopefully people will figure it out.

One of the advantages of using this particular frosted optic is you can leave it stock (and have a really nice looking beam with even color distribution) or simply polish it for additional throw without having to buy any new optics/lenses.

Texas Ace Lumen Tube and JoshK Sphere calibrated with Maukka lights

Click this to go to signature links. I'm still around, just not reading many new threads.

lumenzilla
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I really can’t wait Love

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Yeah, glass is a window unless it’s got curves.
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iamlucky13 wrote:
maukka wrote:
-Measurements show a bit of green on lower modes, but nothing to worry about, visually it’s clean cool white and much better than most CRI90 219

Shouldn’t a Duv of 0.0052 be slightly greener than a typical CRI90 219C? Looking up a couple 219C measurements (MF01 and 219C GB), it seems like 0.003 is pretty typical.

That’s why I said visually. In my experience high CRI 219C looks greener than their measurements would imply. Even when a CRI80 and CRI90 5000K 219C measure similarly, the CRI90 one always looks greener on a white wall while the original R8000 219C looks more often just pure white.

Also, to me, the higher the CCT, the less green the light seems. Maybe I’m just very allergic to that yellow/green tint that plagues many warmish emitters.

iamlucky13 wrote:
If you have a chance to respond, how’s the feel of the body size-wise compared to the D4? The pictures don’t make it look much smaller, but I’m hoping the difference will be noticeable.

The FW3A feels much less chunky.

teacher
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JasonWW wrote:
I assume people know that the optic is a lens and I’m taking about polishing the plastic part made by Carlco and not the glass part.

Plastic = can sand/polish

Glass = leave alone, do not scratch or damage

I assume this. Hopefully people will figure it out.

One of the advantages of using this particular frosted optic is you can leave it stock (and have a really nice looking beam with even color distribution) or simply polish it for additional throw without having to buy any new optics/lenses.

Oh I knew what you meant, and was not really trying to correct you.

But you know what usually happens when anything is assumed. Big Smile .. Somebody does just the opposite. Facepalm . Wink

So…. that has been addressed now. Thumbs Up

Edit: Right or wrong…. I think most people call the flat glass part of a flashlight the lens.
Most people, it seems to me anyway, call Carlco Optics…… optics.

You never know how a horse will pull until you hook him up to a heavy load./"Bear" Bryant 

 .................................. "Slow is Smooth, Smooth is Fast" ...................................

       Texas Lumens Flashlights / M4D M4X Deals : sign up - save $$$$  

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chadvone
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^^ so the fw3a has a lens and a window. Got it.

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ToyKeeper wrote:
IndyArcher wrote:
I just can’t believe the amount of work that goes into these projects. I’m assuming that we’ll have opportunity to donate to those who have worked so diligently once the light is available?

I haven’t had much luck getting in touch with a lot of the original team lately, … (snip) …. However, because people keep asking, I might set up a Patreon account or something.


I honestly hope you do that or a ‘PayPal only email address’ so those that wished could send a token of our appreciation.
A few other could/should do this also, if they wish that is.

ToyKeeper wrote:
If I do though, I want to make it clear that it’s just me, not a team thing. ………….. (snip) …………….. Past attempts to do a team-funding thing haven’t really gone well either, so any donation thingies will probably be done on an individual basis with no illusion that it’s for everyone.

Good, from past experience ; that is exactly how it should be done….. on an individual basis. Donators choose & know exactly who they are donating to. . Thumbs Up

You never know how a horse will pull until you hook him up to a heavy load./"Bear" Bryant 

 .................................. "Slow is Smooth, Smooth is Fast" ...................................

       Texas Lumens Flashlights / M4D M4X Deals : sign up - save $$$$  

         Rudeness Level _ mΩ _ {width:70%} _ LightWiki _ LED Tint Chart  

      Xlamp size chart _ BatteryU _ Flashaholic? Need Professional Help???            TheOriginal _ TAB _ LightSearch _ BatterySearch _ 14500's _ DiCal 

 

                                             

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chadvone wrote:
^^ so the fw3a has a lens and a window. Got it.

The FW3A has an outer glass lens which is there to prevent scratches.

Then you have the molded plastic lens (or TIR optic) under it which is what directs the light forward from the led.

Here is a comparison of a TIR to a reflector.

There are some single TIR lenses made of glass, but you don’t see them very often. Triple and quad lenses are always plastic due to the complex shape.

Texas Ace Lumen Tube and JoshK Sphere calibrated with Maukka lights

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Jambo
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Ok, thanks guys. I just assumed the optic/lens would be clear.

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chadvone wrote:
How about a permanent Donation thread for anyone that is willing to accept donations??

I can think of many people I would donate a small amount of money to.

There has been many reviews that has saved me money.

I own a D4 because of TK’s review, donation sent.

I own several cells based on HJK’s reviews , donation sent.

I have or haven’t bought lights based on robo819, donation sent.

Oh, No way I am gonna forget SB for giving me a place to hang out, donation sent.

Like this

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One please.

hyperduc
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I saw maukka’s updates on page 220. The light looks really sharp. Were there beamshot photos of the recent sample posted?

Waiting to hear about how the orders will work because I will likely order more than one. All LH351D 90+ CRI.

I see it has been confirmed it only works with unprotected cells due to length. I only have MTN protected NCR18650GA cells now but I suppose I can buy a few unprotected for this light. Would be convenient if it were compatible with both but it’s ok.

Interesting, I see the 30Q has much less sag at 7A (0.1v less than 18650GA and 0.15v less than 35E), but has less capacity overall and is equivalent at lower currents. And the Sony VTC6 is slightly better than a 30Q.

What is the DD FET current expected to be for this light?
So, button or flat top?

From MTN:
30Q 3000mAh Unprotected button top = 66.6mm
30Q 3000mAh Unprotected flat top = 64.9mm
NCR18650GA 3500mAh Protected = 69.0mm
NCR18650GA 3500mAh Button Top Unprotected = 67mm
NCR18650GA 3500mAh Flat top Unprotected = 65.5mm
18650VTC6 3000mAh 18650 Flat Top = 65.1mm
18650VTC6 3000mAh 18650 Button Top = 66.9mm

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Why 7135s on the driver in maukka’s picture are in such unusual position? AFAIK it’s not good for heat dissipation.

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I’m in for 2 one of each

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Jambo wrote:
Ok, thanks guys. I just assumed the optic/lens would be clear.
No, it has pretty much been a Carlco Optic 10511 Frosted from almost the beginning. Covered by an AR coated glass lens, mostly for optic protection. Below is from the ORIGINAL POST

Optics

You never know how a horse will pull until you hook him up to a heavy load./"Bear" Bryant 

 .................................. "Slow is Smooth, Smooth is Fast" ...................................

       Texas Lumens Flashlights / M4D M4X Deals : sign up - save $$$$  

         Rudeness Level _ mΩ _ {width:70%} _ LightWiki _ LED Tint Chart  

      Xlamp size chart _ BatteryU _ Flashaholic? Need Professional Help???            TheOriginal _ TAB _ LightSearch _ BatterySearch _ 14500's _ DiCal 

 

                                             

JasonWW
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hyperduc wrote:
I saw maukka’s updates on page 220. The light looks really sharp. Were there beamshot photos of the recent sample posted?

Waiting to hear about how the orders will work because I will likely order more than one. All LH351D 90+ CRI.

I see it has been confirmed it only works with unprotected cells due to length. I only have MTN protected NCR18650GA cells now but I suppose I can buy a few unprotected for this light. Would be convenient if it were compatible with both but it’s ok.

Interesting, I see the 30Q has much less sag at 7A, but has less capacity overall and is equivalent at lower currents.

What is the DD current expected to be for this light?
So, button or flat top?

From MTN:
30Q Unprotected button top = 66.6mm
30Q Unprotected flat top = 64.9mm
NCR18650GA Protected = 69.0mm
NCR18650GA Button Top Unprotected = 67mm
NCR18650GA Flat top Unprotected = 65.5mm


Maukka has not posted beamshots yet.

Ordering details have not been announced, yet.

Amperage should be under 15A, but I’m not sure how much under. It will vary based on battery and led. We should get some exact numbers once the prototypes get delivered and measured.

You want to use unprotected flat top batteries.
Unprotected button top may or may not fit as they vary in length.

Texas Ace Lumen Tube and JoshK Sphere calibrated with Maukka lights

Click this to go to signature links. I'm still around, just not reading many new threads.

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