Fireflies E07 preview

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Brainsick67
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Firemedic wrote:
Love your clown intro shot. So, do you like the sst20 or xpl better? Tint vs output? Is there a noticeable difference? I hear the sst20 have better throw. Can you tell on yours?

I havent tested them out yet, its been to bright outside.i hope to soon.

I'm ThatCrazyFlashaholic 67

lotrbfme
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I have the sst20 4000k and the XPL HI 6500. The XPL HI is noticeable more bright but the colour of the sst20 makes it easier to distinguish stuff and its easy on the eyes too. If I would have to choose one I would go for the sst20 4000k.

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noboneshotdog wrote:
Looks like they haven’t logged into BLF in almost 3 weeks!

CNY is a huge event. People often spend an entire month away from work. At a different time of year, disappearing for 3 weeks would be worrisome, but at the moment it’s normal and expected.

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most people in China move to their work in the  big cities 

at CNY they travel home to visit their family in the hometown 

Neal has nearly 2000 km to go if I remember correctly...

 

 

 

already member of M4DM4X.com ?

the best deals are waiting for YOU!

 

before you buy elsewhere mail me: MARTIN@M4DM4X.COM - i will try to save you money!

Brainsick67
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How do you make the AUX LEDS brighter? I know i saw it, but cant find it.

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tm07
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read #1027

Brainsick67
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tm07 wrote:
read #1027

Thanks man.

I'm ThatCrazyFlashaholic 67

Doug
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Greetings, All.
I’m new here. This is my first post. I happened upon your site a couple of months ago and noticed the interest in a flashlight called Fireflies E07. I followed the posts daily, the good and the bad of the E07, and three weeks ago ordered the clear, with the XPL 6500, from Neil’s. I could not be happier with it. Its looks and its performance are stunning. Fourseven’s got me started about twelve years ago. However, I was losing interest (on the wagon) after they closed up shop. But your interest in the E07, peaked my interest to the point that I now possess what I consider to be this flashoholic’s dream. Ramping to high is awesome enough. Then double clicking to boost… just blows my mind. Thanks, Guys, for renewing my interest in a hobby I love.

Lumenati

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Welcome to the group Doug!

Thier ain’t no bones in a hot dog. F. York

Flashaholics
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E07 is my fave light Doug, and I have over a 100!

My 4K Lumen Whore Reviews (MS18, X70, MS12, DX80, X80-GT, X45vn etc) - https://www.youtube.com/c/FLASHAHOLICS_GB

Tom E
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noboneshotdog wrote:
Welcome to the group Doug!

+1! I got over 200 and I'd say my clear ano E07 is in the top 5. There's nothing perfect - wish the clip was better, and there's been some QC problems, but the power for the size, the UI, the button is protected pretty well and still is somewhat easy to find, the looks - it's a winner for sure.

I still might want to get another one in gray and different LED's. The ROT66 isn't so bad either.

chinooker
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I have the gun gray XPL 5K w/purple aux and it is my goto shadowchaser.
I conversed with Jacky re:clear ano w/ice blue aux and matching switch leds.
No joy yet, butt I put my standing bid in for what would be a beautiful combo.
Anyone else want to bug him? (gently)

Firemedic
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I have my 1 xpl clear ano and another 1 grey nichia on the way. But honestly if they start matching the aux power button with the lense I will be buying another. I like the pl47 but it looks really top heavy for a angle light, and I’m a angle light fanatic. Crown

amars7
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Hey guys does anyone happen to know which version of Anduril the SST-20 lights use? I know it uses the same build as the PL47 but is it the 219 reduced current version or the full current one?

ToyKeeper
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I don’t think Fireflies uses the PL47-219 build at all. If I understand correctly, all PL47/E07 models use the regular PL47 build.

amars7
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So just to be clear, even the 219b E07s run the regular version? Does that hold for the ROT66 as well?

ToyKeeper
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The ROT66-219B uses the ROT66-219 firmware, because its driver has fewer 7135 chips.

I don’t actually know why it has fewer 7135 chips, because the 219B emitters could easily handle all 14 chips. But it does, so it needed different firmware to accommodate the different hardware.

My guess is that the reduced number of chips was done to make the NarsilM version regulate down to an appropriate level after it sensed an overheat condition. It may have been easier to take off a few chips than to modify the firmware to set a different step-down level. But that’s not relevant with Anduril, so it would probably be fine now to run the regular driver with the regular firmware on all versions of the ROT66.

Basically, the ROT66 builds are separated by the number of 7135 chips — 7 or 14 chips. It’s not really about the emitter type.

amars7
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I see, I was under the impression that the turbo mode was limited on the 219 version as the low Vf of the Nichia would cause it to draw too much current and go blue.

The whole reason I’m asking is because I had an early NarsilM 219b ROT66 with no aux LEDs. Long story short it failed and Jacky sent me a replacement head, but not before they sold out of 219s, so I got a modern SST-20 replacement. Was wondering if I had to reflash before swapping out for the 219s, but it sounds like I don’t then! That saves me a lot of trouble.

Thanks TK for your helpful reply!

TheAuditor
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So mine heats up very slowly on turbo, which I am assuming is down to the poor thermal path/lack of thermal paste issue, so my question is what does this mean for the longevity of the flashlight, and should I therefore avoid turbo to make sure nothing overheats?

Bonum commune communitatis.

Yarp.

ToyKeeper
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If you have the skills to do so, it’d probably be a good idea to pull out the MCPCB, file it down a bit, and put it back in with better thermal contact. Failing that, it’d probably be a good idea to limit the use of turbo, at least with the high-CRI emitters.

It sounds like the MCPCB is so thick that it can still handle heat reasonably well even with the air gap though… and I think the heat transfers to the driver through the power wires, so the driver activates turbo step-down early enough to generally keep things safe.

So, basically, just keep an eye out for a blue shift, and throttle it back hard if that ever happens. Or if you can, open it up to fix things. Be warned though, some of the work involved in that is somewhat delicate. It’s probably not a good first project, but someone with experience should be able to handle it pretty easily.

koziy
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I’ve been trying to wade through this thread, but it seems like most of the recent posts are about DIY techniques people are using to fix faulty flashlights. Are the problems still ongoing, or have they been fixed in new production? Since FF offers DHL shipping, I would think that the delay from a new order to when its quality can be reported on isn’t going to be super long, like some of the other flashlights shipped by epacket only…right?

Firelight2
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koziy wrote:
I’ve been trying to wade through this thread, but it seems like most of the recent posts are about DIY techniques people are using to fix faulty flashlights. Are the problems still ongoing, or have they been fixed in new production? Since FF offers DHL shipping, I would think that the delay from a new order to when its quality can be reported on isn’t going to be super long, like some of the other flashlights shipped by epacket only…right?

Fireflies has supposedly fixed the issue of an air gap under the star by adding a much thicker layer of thermal grease to their latest production run.

However, it is unknown whether that run has made it to market yet. To date, no BLF’er has reported getting a flashlight with the extra thermal grease.

koziy
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Have there been any reports of issues or fixes for the PL47 or ROT66 — or have the issues been limited to this model only?

TheAuditor
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ToyKeeper wrote:
If you have the skills to do so, it’d probably be a good idea to pull out the MCPCB, file it down a bit, and put it back in with better thermal contact. Failing that, it’d probably be a good idea to limit the use of turbo, at least with the high-CRI emitters.

It sounds like the MCPCB is so thick that it can still handle heat reasonably well even with the air gap though… and I think the heat transfers to the driver through the power wires, so the driver activates turbo step-down early enough to generally keep things safe.

So, basically, just keep an eye out for a blue shift, and throttle it back hard if that ever happens. Or if you can, open it up to fix things. Be warned though, some of the work involved in that is somewhat delicate. It’s probably not a good first project, but someone with experience should be able to handle it pretty easily.

Oh well, sounds like it is one for the box of shame, where all the broken things go to die Smile
I have plenty of reliable flashlights and won’t miss it.

Bonum commune communitatis.

Yarp.

Firelight2
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TheAuditor wrote:
ToyKeeper wrote:
If you have the skills to do so, it’d probably be a good idea to pull out the MCPCB, file it down a bit, and put it back in with better thermal contact. Failing that, it’d probably be a good idea to limit the use of turbo, at least with the high-CRI emitters.

It sounds like the MCPCB is so thick that it can still handle heat reasonably well even with the air gap though… and I think the heat transfers to the driver through the power wires, so the driver activates turbo step-down early enough to generally keep things safe.

So, basically, just keep an eye out for a blue shift, and throttle it back hard if that ever happens. Or if you can, open it up to fix things. Be warned though, some of the work involved in that is somewhat delicate. It’s probably not a good first project, but someone with experience should be able to handle it pretty easily.

Oh well, sounds like it is one for the box of shame, where all the broken things go to die Smile
I have plenty of reliable flashlights and won’t miss it.


Or you can just use the light and ignore the “under the hood” issues. It will probably still work fine even without opening it up.
Firemedic
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Grey nichia arrived today. Inside looks better, the aux outside wires are a different color. Optic leg still broken. Of course the tint is nice, but what really surprised me is how quick the nichia heats up on turbo. Feels twice as hot as the XPL HI 5000k when on the same amount of time. Both look bone dry through the holes in the board. I plan on swapping led boards in the lights and using the gray at work and clear ano for home shelf queen with the nichia leds. At that time I plan on addressing the thermal issue for both of them

timbo114
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Do the cooling fins on your grey unit have chamfered or sharp edges?

Firemedic
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No.

wolfstyle
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Got my clear XPL HI 4000K yesterday and it looks great. Today I noticed one of the LED optics looked cloudy. Took the bezel and optic out and decided to see what the light looked like mule mode. Turned it on and ramped up and the double clicked into Turbo. About 2 seconds in turbo and SMOKE started rolling out out of the light. Immediately shut it down. Guess that is what turned the optic cloudy.

I’m sure it’s not supposed to do that.

contactcr
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Get a qtip and some alcohol and clean the LEDs.

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