my guess is the runtimes on max would be about the same, for two lights that use the same battery
but the lumens will be very different, because of the difference in LEDs
My priority is High CRI, I get less lumens, but the same runtime.
iow, the 6000k 70CRI Eye10 can do 600 lumens, with Crappy Green tinted, Low CRI,
for about the same amount of time the HDS can do 170 lumens of really Beautiful and Sexy, High CRI Light.
which would you choose?
Green Tint
High CRI?
LOL!
see what I mean, when I say runtime and efficiency are not my priority?
Im all about the colors, give real Reds! Make food look Delicious… etc
.
.
now about that huge drift the light meter captures
In actual use, with my RRT-01, I always move the dial down slightly, after ramping up. This clips the drift, and by the time I set my light down to check its lumen level, it is relatively stable.
In fact, I tend to set my HDS and my RRT-01 to very similar lumen levels, in actual use. Totally by feel.
So it is very important to not have detents that are too far apart on a magnetic rotary, because it is essential to be able to fine tune the dial to clip the drift.
Therefore it is much better to have a smooth ramp, to be able to fine tune the brightness to a stable level, on a Magnetic rotary.
I think that is why most people are actually unaware of the magnetic rotary drift. They counteract it intuitively, with micro tuning movements of the dial.
At the end of the day, the smooth ramp will be much easier to dial in to the “just right” amount of light. Much better than the Eye10 with firm detents along the dial.
The HDS Rotary also ends up getting ramped up and back down, to find the “just right” level, for a given circumstance.
I still prefer the smooth ramp of my RRT-01, over the stepped levels on the HDS dial… but there is no denying that the HDS is the more precise instrument. otoh, the RRT-01 is just so much fun, thanks to its smooth stepless ramping…