Fireflies E07 preview

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Firemedic
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Ok, finished my E07 led swap today. Nichia’s in the clear ano light now. This install
went much smoother than my first. Both have layer of thermal paste now. I noticed there has to be some variance in the drivers because the nichia E07 moonlight mode is now the dimmest. I thought it was the nichia/XPL thing before now. I may try some beam shot/tint comparisons later.

contactcr
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I suspect you changed the floor setting (by mistake) on the brighter one. Go through the steps to set it back to 1, but it may or may not flicker a bit on that low of setting

tundraotto
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Isn’t the brightness difference due to the XPL being much more efficient in lumens/watt compared to the nichia? ie. for the same milliamps and volts the XPL will be brighter.

contactcr
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He swapped the LEDs and the issue did not go with them. So presumably it’s a hardware (7135) variation or firmware (floor setting) difference.

Firemedic
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Lol, I did. No flicker, but that’s the floor on both. One click on both setting up floor.

Firemedic
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My previous post will show the XPL moonlight lower than the nichia before the swap. I think it’s got to be something with the driver

DB Custom
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It’s those small variances in componentry that cause it to be difficult to pre-set moon… they just aren’t all the same.

Tom E
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That's why I made moon mode level configurable - I got lights with a "glow" for moon light PWM level 3, some work decently, others don't light up at all on PWM level 3. Also some work at level 2, and I think at level 1, some don't.

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I managed to reduce the hardware sensitivity of moon level, but didn’t eliminate the issue entirely. The method for doing this is to underclock the MCU at the lowest few levels, which makes each pulse longer but farther apart. The overall brightness is similar, but it’s less volatile, less variable from one chip to the next.

Comparing the two methods…

Adjustable moon at full speed:

  • + Moon level can be lower.
  • + Moon level can be somewhat more consistent from one light to the next, if each one is calibrated individually.
  • + Virtually impossible to detect any PWM.
  • - Moon may be fine on a full battery, but may not illuminate at all on a low battery.
  • - Generally requires calibration for each individual light.
  • - Uses about 5 to 6 mA of power, even at the lowest moon level.

Dynamic underclocking:

  • + Less sensitive to subtle hardware changes, so moon level is more consistent from one light to the next.
  • + Less sensitive to battery voltage, so moon level is more consistent as the battery gets low.
  • + Uses about 1.2 to 2.2 mA of power, so moon runtime is typically about 3X longer. The next few low modes also have increased runtime.
  • - Not adjustable for each individual light.
  • - Moon level may be higher than desired.
  • - PWM might be visible for a few people… though it’s still invisible to most.

Six of one, half a dozen of another. Different people choose different tradeoffs. Perhaps in the future we’ll use MCUs with more pins and we can have a dedicated power channel for moon… like how the lighted button works. Or the button channel could be used for moon instead. This would provide even higher efficiency, with no PWM.

twisted raven
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Still waiting for word on copper and/or titanium version!

Firemedic
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Just a few xpl hi 5000k and nichia 219b comparisons.
White door plus shadows from chandelier
Xpl light
Nichia light
Room chandelier light on wood dressers
Xpl on dresser
Nichia on dresser
Love the throw/lumen power of the xpl, but the nichia really makes the browns and reds look deep and vibrant. On turbo the xpl looks “to the eye” double the lumen output of the nichias. You can see the xpl has tighter hot spot also. I’m glad I have both. If they start matching the button leds with the aux lights, other than purple, I may be getting the sst model. It’s just hard to beat the the amazing output of the XPL HI emitters they offer.

Firemedic
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If you adjust your aux lights make sure you don’t use any precision screwdrivers. One of mine broke off when trying to adjust with a micro screwdriver. Be gentle and use your finger or maybe a pencil eraser for grip. I thought I saw a slit for a micro screwdriver in the center but it isn’t. So be careful. I ended up dripping a solder blob to obtain max brightness back on and now the only way to dim is remove that blob……

dotBLF
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Firemedic wrote:
If you adjust your aux lights make sure you don’t use any precision screwdrivers. One of mine broke off when trying to adjust with a micro screwdriver. Be gentle and use your finger or maybe a pencil eraser for grip. I thought I saw a slit for a micro screwdriver in the center but it isn’t. So be careful. I ended up dripping a solder blob to obtain max brightness back on and now the only way to dim is remove that blob……

+1

Thanks for the tip Firemedic, I totally would have done the same thing!!!!

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Edited below to add measurements with Lishen LR2170SF and Samsung 50E. I believe the LR2170SF is the best cell for the 219B version eventhough it outputs the same as the 50E at full charge, but as the battery depletes, the LR2170SF will be able to output higher than the 50E.

SKV89 wrote:
Here are a few more measurements of three more E07 using Samsung 30T.

E07 SST-20 4000k, emitters swapped by Texas_Ace (different batch of SST-20): Samsung 30T 4,845 lumens
E07 SST-20 4000k: Samsung 30T 4,888 lumens; Lishen LR2170SF 4,319; Samsung 50E 4,095
E07 XP-L HI 4000k v2 5A, heavily used: Samsung 30T 6,465 lumens;

SKV89 wrote:
I took more measurements and here are the lumen results for 4 different E07:

E07 XP-L HI 6500kQSO VTC6A 6,681; 30T 6,983
E07 XP-L HI 5000kQSO VTC6A 6,551; Vapcell VTC6A 6,379; 30T 6,733; Vapcell 40T 6,810
E07 XP-L HI 5000kQSO VTC6A 6,586; Vapcell VTC6A 6,630; 30T 7,327; Vapcell 40T 7,017; QSO 40T 6,983; LG M50 5,353; Lishen LR2170SF 5,866; Samsung 50E 5,268
E07 219B sw45k 9080 – Vapcell VTC6A 3,707; 30T 4,301 (quickly dropping); Vapcell 40T 3,741; NCR21700A button top 2,828; LG M50 3,233; Lishen LR2170SF 3,450, Samsung 50E 3,449

For some reason, I cannot reproduce the 7,570 lumen measurement again. The unit I measured 7,570 now only makes 7,357 lumens. Not sure if the emitters already degraded from me constantly blasting turbo or is it due to some other reason. I’m surprised the XP-L HI v3 6500k unit is not as bright as one of the XP-L HI v2 5000k unit.

I think the 40T is the ideal battery for the XP-L HI version. For the 219B version, I would think the NCR21700A recessed top with 15A would be the best battery but I don’t have a charger that can charge the recessed top and the soldered button top version adds an incredible amount of resistance. Otherwise the LG M50 is not bad for the 219B. The 40T might be pushing it too hard in the long run.

Also I really like the look of this light. The knurling and the very deep and functional heat fins look great. Most of the weight is in the head of the light where it is needed most for heat sinking. Jack said he designed the final prototype with super thick 8mm shelf. I couldn’t measure it but with the optics removed, it seems the shelf is probably not that thick but without removing the mcpcb and driver I can’t say for sure. But it did look like Fireflies listened to our request to increase surface area and mass in the head for better heat sinking and dissipation.

Machining quality is not as good as the Emisar series but not too bad. The clear anodizing version is OMG beautiful and a must have for anyone’s collection. Now I’m patiently waiting for a copper version.

One suggested improvement is to find or make an optic with larger TIR cups for more focused beam. There’s too much wasted space between the cups. Otherwise, I think the size of this optic can fit 10 cups and emitters for an even more amazing flooder good for 10k real OTF lumens.

Overall, this is the best pocketable EDC I’ve seen to date. It is also BY FAR the brightest single cell production flashlight in the world. It is twice as bright as the previous record holder, which is the Emisar D4S.

xevious
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Fantastic work, Firemedic. Thumbs Up

mortuus
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does samsung 50e really fit this light ? 40t seems like a tight fit.

...where Frugal meets with Flashlight!

noboneshotdog
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mortuus wrote:
does samsung 50e really fit this light ? 40t seems like a tight fit.

Yes, I’m using mine with the 50E and 48G with perfect fit and electrical connection.

Thier ain’t no bones in a hot dog. F. York

mortuus
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okay good to know.

...where Frugal meets with Flashlight!

noboneshotdog
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https://i.imgur.com/7hDMuJP.jpg

This was posted by TwistedRaven on CPF

Thier ain’t no bones in a hot dog. F. York

DB Custom
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Luscious! Love

twisted raven
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And I found it from xamsiem on Reddit.

noboneshotdog
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I may be tempted to mix and match.

Maybe put this head on my clear coat body. And the copper body on my clear coat head. I don’t know….

Thier ain’t no bones in a hot dog. F. York

twisted raven
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I’ll taker an all copper one.

Ekstasis
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I did find out about this light about 2 weeks ago, I thought that this was the ultimate EDC light. Was little bit surprised never heard about the manufacture before.

I have spent the whole saturday to read this thread. In general its way too much off topic in this thread especially of people who dont own the flashlight.

Here is Some observations and questions to summarize this thread

1. It seem Fireflies first of all have done a bad job giving back feedback, about all manufacture and quality problems, I only have seen one post, about the thermal paste. From that point forward we know they are aware of the problem, but we still see no confirmation that all flashlight from a certain date should not have this problem, all I see is people from left and right have this problem, right now I cant make purcahse cause it feels like russian roulette and its a big pain to send back stuff and get it fixed even if they pay for everything, I rather wait until beta period over.

2. Its a lot of of battery discussion in thread, some battery discussion are valid, especially those regarding size of battery, It must be under 70.8mm in length. The other discussion of the danger to use to powerful batteries might make some emitters blue or stop working is also very important disucssion,

The other dicussion regarding fake batteries from fireflies, well, first of all fireflies should not bundle with battires, its a risky business its easy to get fake batteries, especially since they most likely want to make as good profit as possible so they buy the batch that has best price. Fireflies will earn money of bundle fake batteries. Its better to buy batteries from shops that only sell battires where their whole reputation is on the line if they sell fake battries, here in EU I recommend NKON.

3. There is very little comparison between emitters in this thread, I think there is a lot of “Nichia” fanboyism in general on this forum, sometimes its well deserved but that does not mean we should give other emitters a chance. I am in the market for the 4000k range myself, but the CREE XPL HI V2 5A 4000k emitter have 2400 more in lumen output, then both Nichia and SST20 4000k, so yeah thats a really big difference in output, so there should be a very good reason to choose the Nichia over the SST20, sure I dont see the CRI rating on the Cree XPL, but I would prefer to see actual photos to see the difference in color/tint/beam/battery efficiency.

4.

freeme wrote:

Premium E07 edition will be made available next month! cool 

Now it has gone almost 2 months, have we seen any “official” proof that it will be released ? and when ?
I rather way for the premium edition with Copper and that have hopefully fixed all the glitches in the manufacturing. Black body and copper head would look sexy (just like Manker E14 II).

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I’m also keeping my eye out for the premium copper/titanium E07. I might splurge on it. My nichia 219b E07 is one of my favorite lights now. I love the size, it looks awesome, and performs great.

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I’m surprised no one has mentioned the 219B version is listed as in-stock again, for both the E07 and the ROT66 (but not the PL47).

The listing does not explicitly say SW45K (I don’t know for certain whether it did before), but it does specify R9080.

Ekstasis
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Does any one have a beamshot comparison between XPL Hi V2 5A 4000K and SST20 4000k. I am not interested in the Nichia, they have more quality problems and the blueshift problem is not something I want to risk.

There is a big lumen advantage over the SST20, I also read that the XPL HI have superior thermal performance it means that I would be able to run on turbo for longer periods then the SST20.

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Noticed that the banner to the left is now advertising an E07 VII. The website says new version since the beginning of March, but does not say what the changes are? I assume it probably has the cooling fins rounded off on all colors now, but can anyone confirm? Any other changes?

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G.P. wrote:
Noticed that the banner to the left is now advertising an E07 VII. The website says new version since the beginning of March, but does not say what the changes are? I assume it probably has the cooling fins rounded off on all colors now, but can anyone confirm? Any other changes?

I have one that I’m pretty sure is VII, slightly bevelled fins indeed, undamaged optics and a ledboard that sits flat on its shelf with ample thermal paste. I’m not sure if there’s more changes. I modded it with a few new leds already: http://budgetlightforum.com/comment/1482170#comment-1482170
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Version II is also supposed to be 1mm longer so it can accommodate larger batteries.

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