[Group Buy END] Sofirn SP36 Anduril Version

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Barry0892
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[Group Buy END] Sofirn SP36 Anduril Version

Hey guys, **

【UPDATE 10th April】

Sofirn SP36 BLF Anduril is available to preorder on banggood. Link

Normal Price:$78.99
Coupon Price: $46.99
Coupon Code:BLFSP36

 

【UPDATE 1st April】tests outcome of two prototypes of SP36 Anduril Version with 4* LH351D leds

#1(HD Batteries):                       max 5650LM; tint:5270K; CRI:83.9 ; distance:352m

#2(Normal sanyo Batteries):  max 5300LM; tint:5130K ; CRI:83.6 ; distance:337m

this beam was taken by huawei smart phone. It's hard to show the how it looks via naked eyes.

 

【UPDATE】It seems some like 90CRI. Boss of sofirn is trying to get 90CRI but that's more difficult than 80CRI. Will definitely get some but don't know when and how many.

 

Thanks to ToyKeeper's help, Sofirn is going to make SP36 Anduril Version. Sofirn would love to select 4* LH351D 5000K 80CRI, want to see how many of you guys are interested.

Please reply if you are interested. Or give some new ideas on SP36.

 

Thanks "Sofirn SP36 Impression of sample by Djozz":http://budgetlightforum.com/node/62927

 

"A review of SP36 by liquidretro":http://budgetlightforum.com/node/65569

Edited by: Barry0892 on 05/14/2019 - 21:49
Barry0892
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sofirn is going to make another version SP36 Pro with 4* XHP50.2 10K lumens and sofirn designed driver.

weklund
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Definitely interested. Love the tint.

... Happy Landings ...

d_t_a
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Interested too.

I still haven’t gotten a light with the LH351D (but maybe they can offer both the 80 CRI 5000K and another LH351D with 90CRI warmer tint)..

Easyrr
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interested

Nguyen
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Interested

Tripod socket or lanyard attachment please.

djozz
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I like that and I’m interested. I would like to know the tint bin of the used leds.

Extra ideas:
*Stainless steel bezel
*Tripod mount (although I know it does not easily fit in the current design).
*orange or red switch leds instead of green
*and of course a removable driver, i.e. screwed down like the Q8

Di_Joker
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I would like to have a choice of 4000K-4500K too. And I hope someday you can make 4*XHP50.

Sorry for my poor english.

Lux-Perpetua
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Good idea Barry! Thumbs Up

My suggestions:

  • Two options: LH351D 5000K 70CRI W6 Flux Bin for maximum output / LH351D 4.000K 90CRI for HighCRI enthusiasts
  • Lanyard attachment or - as Djozz suggested - tripod mount
  • Retaining ring or screws to hold driver in place
  • NO GLUE, PLEASE!
teacher
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I would definitely (not) be interested in a 4* LH351D 5000K 80CRI SP36 Anduril Version. (if it has a yellow tint)

(Based on THIS POST by KawiBoy1428, I would be interested in a SP36 with 4 x LH351D W6 5700k.)

I am also interested in the things mentioned by djozz, quoted below.

djozz wrote:

I would like to know the tint bin of the used leds.

Extra ideas:
*Stainless steel bezel
*Tripod mount (although I know it does not easily fit in the current design).
*orange or red switch leds instead of green
*and of course a removable driver, i.e. screwed down like the Q8

Edited to change opinion. That change is based on THIS POST by KawiBoy1428 …… My “Edit’s” are in ( edits ).

(The way he describes the LH351D W6 5700k sounds as though it would be much more to my liking. Thumbs Up )

You never know how a horse will pull until you hook him up to a heavy load./"Bear" Bryant 

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sandro
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Interested 5000K

KawiBoy1428
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I have tried the 5000k… the 5000k 80CRI I suspect would be more yellow than the 5000k with out doubt, considering all the other HICRI’s I tried were yellow to orange.

Now I’m running only with the LH351D W6 5700k in quads and triples Thumbs Up it is spectacular IMHO and from my experience(s). But I have to admit the combo 2×5000k by 2×5700k quad I built is totally acceptable maybe close to spectacular… Big Smile I ask Sofirn as a challenge, to at least give the 5700k a try.. if you (Sofirn) don’t like it…I’ll buy it, just PM me and I’ll send the cash Wink

Big SmileThumbs Up

KB1428 “Live Life WOT”

shirnask
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Interested, NO GLUE

RobertB
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Interested if the tint isn’t green like so many I’ve seen

PBWilson
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While I love my SP36 and use it all the time around the house and property, I wouldn’t mind a warmer tint. 5000K sounds great and it’s what I have and enjoy on a bunch of my lights. Warmer wouldn’t be bad either but as you go to extremes, I’d imagine sales would suffer. I love Narsil ramping and basically only use it without going into any of the special modes or features. If Anduril can help a bit with the heat when using turbo, it might be worthwhile.

I can’t say that I will buy another since my own SP36 is so often used and I don’t know if I’d upgrade.

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This sounds like a really nice upgrade to the SP36. The SP36 is a good light and the LH351D makes a really nice-looking beam.

As Lux-Perpetua mentioned, it may be interesting to use the 5000K version with the most lumens, and also make a 4000K version optimized for high CRI. In both cases though, try to get a tint bin on the pink side of the BBL instead of the green side.

It would also be nice for people around here if the driver was held in by screws or a retaining ring instead of glue. Smile

If Sofirn is interested, it may also be worthwhile to sell a diffuser cap which fits onto the SP36 to turn it into a candle or a lantern. That would allow it to serve more purposes, and it’s a nice thing to have when using Anduril’s candle mode.

ToyKeeper
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KawiBoy1428 wrote:
at least give the 5700k a try

Perhaps you would be more interested in the original version of the SP36? It already has a cool white emitter, fairly close to what you described. The main difference is that it uses XP-L2 instead of LH351D. However, the beam looks a lot nicer than I expected, and it’s already available today.

The main points of doing this new SP36 are:

  • Neutral white instead of cool white.
  • Improve beam consistency.
  • Anduril firmware.

The original version is still surprisngly nice though. It’s basically a Q8, only smaller and with built-in charging. I didn’t expect to like it because of the cool white emitters, but it actually works really well.

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PBWilson wrote:
If Anduril can help a bit with the heat when using turbo, it might be worthwhile.

I’ve mostly found that the SP36 handles heat pretty well. From a cold start, I find it usually takes 2 to 3 minutes before it starts ramping down from turbo. Anduril does still regulate the brightness down eventually though, and here’s how that looks. The blue line in these graphs shows how it behaves.

There are no immediate step-downs. Brightness is gradually adjusted as smoothly as the hardware allows, which makes it difficult to actually notice during use. If the light later gets cold, it adjusts smoothly back up. This tends to happen when the battery voltage drops, because it gets more efficient and produces less heat as the battery voltage drops closer to the emitter voltage. The overall pattern is shown in the graphs below:


I’d recommend using a high-capacity cell like the 35E, if possible. It increases runtime at most levels, and also increases the length of time the light can spend on turbo before ramping down. The only downside is that turbo won’t be quite as bright. The difference isn’t very perceptible by eye, but it does make a noticeable difference in terms of how long it takes to get hot.

teacher
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shirnask wrote:
Interested, NO GLUE
Agreed….
  • No Glue anywhere
  • Use a driver retaining ring

You never know how a horse will pull until you hook him up to a heavy load./"Bear" Bryant 

 .................................. "Slow is Smooth, Smooth is Fast" ...................................

       Texas Lumens Flashlights / M4D M4X Deals : sign up - save $$$$  

         Rudeness Level _ mΩ _ {width:70%} _ LightWiki _ LED Tint Chart  

      Xlamp size chart _ BatteryU _ Flashaholic? Need Professional Help???            TheOriginal _ TAB _ LightSearch _ BatterySearch _ 14500's _ DiCal 

 

                                             

tundraotto
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Interested in 2 if no glue, otherwise 1

erlebo
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I am interested.

It would be better if it didn’t charge to 4.25V.

New Sofirn SP36 charges to 4.25 volts

Lfatman
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Interested in 4000K 90CRI

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erlebo wrote:
I am interested.

It would be better if it didn’t charge to 4.25V.

New Sofirn SP36 charges to 4.25 volts

True, but normal. Most chargers have a variance of +/- 0.05V in their termination voltage. I’ve seen that on every charger I’ve ever measured. It’s unfortunate, but it’s not at all unusual.

On my SP36, it stopped right at 4.20V. But normally I use chargers which are biased a bit lower than that, stopping at 4.17V or 4.18V. And in the ones I’ve measured, I found anything from 4.11V to 4.25V even from major brands. Stopping right at 4.20V is somewhat uncommon.

In practice though, I find it doesn’t matter because I normally don’t charge cells all the way. The battery lives longer if it’s never completely full or completely empty, because li-ion cells have a longer life span at half charge. So I use a light until the battery gets to 3.3V or maybe 3.4V, and then I charge it to 4.0V or 4.1V. The SP36 actually makes this easier, because I can put it in battcheck mode, plug it in for a couple hours, then unplug it. All three cells get partially charged equally, which is difficult to do in an external charger. And because it’s convenient, I can keep it in an even smaller voltage range if I want, like from 3.5V to 3.9V. I can just plug it in a bit more often for a shorter time.

The battcheck mode isn’t very precise or very accurate, but it does at least work well enough to let me know when it has charged enough to unplug the light. As soon as it blinks 4.0, that’s typically enough to give me more runtime than I’ll ever need in a single night… usually enough to last several months.

Nooner
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Maybe the most palatable choice to the BLF community is an unassembled host.

Everything but the LEDs.

Solves the problem of disassembling a glued driver and everyone can have there 1st choice of LED.

If not my choice of LED would be a 3000k 90cri xpl-hi or 3000k sst20. I bet I represent a minority though.

mmalive
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I am in. Own all Sofirn lights released.

808Hi
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Interested

Unloco
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Interested in LH351D 4000K 90CRI if it has not the driver glued, may be screws like the Q8 or retaining ring like the GT or the Astrolux MF series the to hold driver in place.

adam7027
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Maybe interested.

My suggestions for LH351D:
5700K 80CRI or 6000K 90CRI (LH351D has this latter option as well, checked that from documentation)
5000K 90CRI
3500K 90CRI

litenutz
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Sofirn+Anduril. Interested

BOMBAY
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nterested. I would probably choose 5000K W6

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Oh yea, no glue = INSTA BUY Love

This light has so much mod-potential, ruined by glue.

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