Stock “20mm” TIRs sometimes actually run about 21mm. I’ve only really seen 20mm and 26mm (barring triples/quads), but someone mentioned another light that took smaller TIRs.
I wonder if boring out the bezel a coupla mm would let regular TIRs fit…
Well here ya go…
Little doodads around the periphery and at the pointy end, can probably be shaved down a bit to fit the bezel nicely.
7bux (+3bux shipping) for a 20pak. Gee, that’s enough for 10 headlamps…
Eh, wotdahell. Ordered a pak of the 60s…
I was actually glancing at those. I think the diameter will be fine with a little sanding, but I’m concerned with the height. I’m curious to see what comes of them. Let us know (in a month or so!)
Wellp, with TIRs in there, I ain’t gonna need the front glass, so that’s at least a mm gone. I figure it should fit as-is for the most part.
Worst case, lap the living Hell out of the back of the replacement mcpcbs.
D25 is not as good for modding as D10: non standard, hard to remove led plate; non standard lenses, plastic bezel and you have to buy 2x leds and lenses instead off 1 like in D10. In my practical use D10 is getting to hot already on 1A, witch is no good , because, it overheats lithium battery! I’m pretty sure, D25 with 2 leds will overheat even faster so. D10 & D25 have cooling ribs inside battery tube 
Good review mate!
My story i bought one of these a few months ago and i ordered the 2 XML option of course more LEDs = more power lol. They sent the single LED option of course lol. So i argued with Aliexpress and i got $11 AUD back from the $20 AUD i spent probably the best $9 AUD light ever lol.
Its built well and the stock driver is on the better side for a headlamp and stock it is plenty bright for a headlamp i wanted your edition the double LED to make one side red and one normal output for fishing but oh well. Ill probably buy another i think.
Now i lost it i don’t know where and how but its gone i think my niece moved when she was playing with my lights. I am planning when or if i find it to put a new driver in it with the 3v XHP50.2. Probably need to hire Liam Neeson to find it lol.
It opens clockwise…
wut? Back in post #23 it says CCW - could there be 2 types?
I have 2 D10, date on boxes 2018-11-19 and 2018-12-01 , both opens clockwise, should be same on D25, no? Manufacturer definitely is the same.
Ohh, I got the dual equivalent, no name brand.
Just ordered the single version: https://www.aliexpress.com/item/XM-L2-Mini-Head-Lamp-Outdoor-White-Light-Headlamp-Fishing-Head-light-USB-Charge-Waterproof-Headlight/32966277532.html?spm=a2g0s.9042311.0.0.6f754c4dPWhv8x
For $12, can't go wrong.
Unscrewed mine and find out that copper ring on 17mm driver is almost broke off. I need another solution and it will be not cheap one, because there is no onesided programmable drivers on the market… there is no cheap dedicated and efficient, low current (1-1.5A), drivers for L shaped headlamps like H03 or H30 
Boy, wish I could get my open and see - I do lots of OSHPark ATtiny85 based one sided drivers, accept for the batt+ contact area of course.
Man… Just turn hard clockwise and don’t mind scratches…
Yea, that's the plan for this eve - 10 hrs or so from now... I'll clamp it up and use my newly tweaked spanner tool.
This is the kind of tool I have/used: https://www.aliexpress.com/item/DSLR-Lens-Spanner-Wrench-Opening-Tool-Stainless-Steel-For-Camera-Repair-open-Tools-Kit/32750613438.html
This worked for me
!
!
I got a set of these
from Amazon a ways back, but they’re now like twice the price.
Goggle “tekton snap ring pliers”.
Set of 4: all 4 combos of bent/straight, spring-open/spring-closed.
As I laid in bed trying to sleep last night, I realized that I lied I usually talk about this in terms of normal vs reverse threaded. These are reverse threaded… so they unscrew going clockwise :person_facepalming:
I agree, I think I would have liked the D10 better due to increased mod-ability. Those internal “cooling ribs” are actually channels for the LED wires to run through without interfering with the battery. I doubt they’re intended for cooling, but I’ve been known to be wrong on occasion. 
No prob. I tried reversed early on, but I probably already had tightened it up, so didn't try hard enough.
Edit: took all of 2 secs to loosen the end cap now - CW, reverse, etc. 
.
So I see the driver and the issues - tight space, plastic ring it fits in, switch on the back side.
Looked carefully at it - probable a PIC, SOIC-8, Vcc on pin #1, switch on pin #2, FETs on pin #4, and GRND on pin #8. And that seems to be it. The FETs are two in parallel, 3 pins, output goes thru a bank of parallel current limiting resistors.
So, 4 wires, that's all. I'm thinking of removing the MCU, using an 85 in it's place and hand wiring up the 4 pins needed. Should be enough spare room on the driver. Dunno how well it will work. I'll probably replace the 'D1' diode they have with a 4.7 ohm resistor which the 85 typically needs.
These are the tools I used/tried:
It lives in pieces!
The driver:
The (my fault) damage:
I'll sand down the end cap to bare - should mostly hide the scratches, not too concerned about them - this light will get used.
NarsilM has one channel support, so should work - might jumper the resistor bank though for more power, or leave as is since normally I don't need power so the lower the max amps, the more efficient it should be.
This pic datasheet on page 4 shows the pins where Vcc and Vss are: https://www.mouser.com/datasheet/2/268/PIC16(L)F1831318323
This driver is total crap . Zero stabilization , output depends on voltage: 4.2v- 2A, but on 3.8v output already dropped to 1,4A. And it overheating fast and dropping output even more to 1A and keeps dropping …to 0,7A! Its real 10$ hi tech I never stop wondering why Chinese engineers cant use few AMC7135…