I don’t see a black spot, but I do see a yellow tint in the center of the beam. Not obnoxious or anything, but just there.
I’m running an Efest purple button top. 650 mah, 6+ amp continuous draw.
I really like this light. It feels a little weird in my hand at first, since I’m used to my Lumintop Tool AA 2.0 and my Sofirn C01s, but it works just fine. I ordered the holster with it, and am looking forward to wearing it on my belt for EDC for a while.
It’s getting dark out now, so heading outside to do side by sides with my GT Mini and the Lumintop Tool AA 2.0.
PS: I got mine a couple of days ago. It seemed to get hung up in LA for several days but it’s here so I’m happy.
Windy fires are buttontop and efest are flat. I tried the windyfires again and in fact they do work. I dunno why it didn’t work the first time. I’m pretty sure I had the tail cap fully tightened. Maybe the body wasn’t.
The windy fires have an extra 100 Lumens on start up vs the Vapcell. But I still prefer the Vapcell because of the 1000 mah.
Ok… thanks for the info. :+1:
I gotta get me a couple of those Vapcell 1000 mAh… that extra capacity sounds good. And just loosing 100 lumens is not to bad given the extra capacity.
But then again, the 3V 50.2 can deliver far more lumens than the SST-40, soooooo, a top 14500 pushing a 3V 50.2 should give an interesting boost over the use of an SST-40, AND a sliced and diced 50.2 would be even more interesting!
I just noticed Vapcell released a 14500 650mah 7A button top battery 7A CDR, 13A max discharge current. Seems to be the best high drain 14500 available on the market. I previously bought their 14500 1000mah batteries, which is the best high capacity 14500 on the market, and I tested them to be legit specs.
Has anyone done any measurements with this battery on their GT Micro or with a similar high drain battery? I’m wondering if the new Vapcell will be able to manage 4.5A in this light. Thinking of buying one to put a White Flat in there.
im having a problem with my micro, it was working fine and then i swapped in a sst-20 and the led was staying on all the time, i thought yeah some short somewhere maybe its the reflector but nah and then i was like well might be the led wires touching on the mcpcb or something so decided to remove the driver and replace the led wires but nah yeah still the led stays on. so i was like ok maybe the head is touching something so i took the whole driver out and powered it up and led still on always. so i dunno its beyond me at this point, any ideas would be great.
That is rather odd, generally that is a sign of a bad 7135 but it is strange that it only started happening after the LED swap. Generally excess heat or voltage would kill the 7135.
i tried to get the 2 boards apart but it seemed to difficult, i might try again and replace the 7135. would a short cause that kind of damage to the 7135 chip if i did something unknowingly? it seems to function normally during ramping and blinks where it would normally blink at the top of regulation, its got anduril.
A short could possibly damage the 7135 just not as common.
You will need to de-solder the brass bars that hold the PCB’s together in order to take them apart. You will need a hot air gun to do both of them at the same time I am pretty sure.
Worst case you might be able to get a replacement driver from lumintop.