What did you BREAK today?

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Jack Kellar
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manithree wrote:
Thanks. Just based on a quick visual inspection it looks ok. But I definitely need a new helmet. The jacket, shorts, and shirt I was wearing were all ruined.

Yeah, I already figured those would be a total loss. At least it was them and not your skin and skull; the armor did its job.

lumenzilla
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I’m so relieved that I’m not the only one who broke things Big Smile

skinny_tie
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I killed the MELD-X RGBW driver that came in a light I bought from pinkpanda3310. I transplanted it into a new host with a RGBW XM-L and it worked, but unless the head was unscrewed slightly it just lit up all the dies dimly. Left it on my bedside table and the next morning my son got it and inserted the cell the wrong way, although I’m not sure he got the tailcap back on.

Now the driver just lights up all the dies dimly even when bench testing and I’m not sure whether it was a short or reverse polarity that killed it.

Lessons learned:

  • Never leave a cell in a light with a fault
  • Keep Li-ion lights out of reach of small children
  • Good RGBW drivers are hard to find
firedome
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Turned a working Samsung TV into a non-working with a preventive replace capacitors job.

“We can easily forgive a child who is afraid of the dark; the real tragedy of life is when men are afraid of the light.

-Plato

wle
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my utorch ut10 suddenly died

i think it is the switch – like most of my other lights

it got stuck in a blinking pattern

would not turn off

removed battery

after that it would not do anything

seems like switch

unrepairable as far as i can tell

things are glued in-the electronics[‘driver’]

plus surface mount switch would be a pain to find the part and then solder it without burning or melting other parts

- i wasn’t doing anything but trying to use it, though i have had it 2 years or so, and i prob use it 40 times a day, so 29,000 switch cycles.

wle

skinny_tie
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I broke the atrocious stock driver in my Wuben E01 when I drilled a hole through it so I could lever it out. It had terrible visible PWM and a double-tap for strobe which meant you couldn’t change modes quickly so I don’t feel guilty at all.

Unfortunately I also ripped a component and PCB trace off the cheap single-mode driver I was filing down to fit. Now I’m left with a non-functional E01, but to be honest I think that’s still a win – the stock driver really is that bad.

If anyone knows a source of tiny multi-mode boost drivers please let me know. I know MTN sells Lumintop Tool drivers, but postage from the US makes it too expensive.

atbglenn
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I haven’t broken anything in a while. When I do, It’s usually bones..lol.

Boycott Nike

Scallywag
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White Flat 1mm2

I may have overdriven the white flat in my Jaxman Z1...

EDC Rotation: ZL SC62 | Jaxman E2L XP-G2 5A | Purple S2+ XPL-HI U6-3A | D4 w/ Luxeon V | RRT-01 
EagTac D25C Ti | DQG Slim AA Ti | UF-T1 by CRX | Olight S1 | Klarus Mini One Ti
L6 XHP70.2 P2 4000K FET+7135 | Jaxman M8 | MF02 | Jaxman Z1 CULNM1.TG | Blue S2+ w/ ML Special
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Others: Nitecore EC23 | Nebo Twyst | Streamlight ProTac 1AA | TerraLux LightStar 100

KevinZA1988
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I broke my rose gold S1R Baton II. Did an emitter swap en didn’t remove the cell when I solder the MCPCB back into the light. I shorted something. FFS

Acebeam L16, BLF Q8, BLF A6, BLF FW3A, BLF FW3C, Convoy L2, Convoy L6, Convoy C8+ , Convoy S3, Convoy M21A, Convoy S11, Emisar D4, Fireflies E07, Jaxman E2L, Olight S1R Baton II special edition series, S2R Baton II, Nitecore HC65, Olight H1R Nova.

Scallywag
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KevinZA1988 wrote:
I broke my rose gold S1R Baton II. Did an emitter swap en didn't remove the cell when I solder the MCPCB back into the light. I shorted something. FFS

Ouch! That one is worth fixing, for the beautiful host.

Shoot me a PM if you want to get rid of it though, my wife would love a flashlight that color Wink

EDC Rotation: ZL SC62 | Jaxman E2L XP-G2 5A | Purple S2+ XPL-HI U6-3A | D4 w/ Luxeon V | RRT-01 
EagTac D25C Ti | DQG Slim AA Ti | UF-T1 by CRX | Olight S1 | Klarus Mini One Ti
L6 XHP70.2 P2 4000K FET+7135 | Jaxman M8 | MF02 | Jaxman Z1 CULNM1.TG | Blue S2+ w/ ML Special
In-progress: Supfire M6 3xXHP50.2 
Others: Nitecore EC23 | Nebo Twyst | Streamlight ProTac 1AA | TerraLux LightStar 100

pinkpanda3310
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I’ve started a new build. So far I’ve scrapped 2 parts. 100% hit rate so far. I’ve only made 2 parts and I’ve had to make both of them twice. Facepalm Facepalm

CoRDS
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i broke m Aldi 1500lm zoomie today

i took the battery out and stupidly thought “ i wonder if its brighter with some samsung 30q’s”
so uhh that was a dumb idea as the led is only lighting up one quarter of the chip and even then its so very dim that its hard to tell its on

it guess i could replace the led (which i think was an xp50)

acab
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Which Aldi lights have authentic XHP50? Would love to see the light.

gchart
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Maybe not so much a breakage, but a screw up for sure…

I was admiring some boards I got in from Oshpark today (am I the only one that does that?) when I realized a major flaw: I completely forgot to add the vias around the ground ring. Doh! Facepalm At least the board is big enough that I could manually add a via with a drill and some copper wire.

PS – my first ever board with a crystal oscillator!

ToyKeeper
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gchart wrote:
PS – my first ever board with a crystal oscillator!

What’s the oscillator for? Why do you need a different and/or more precise signal than the MCU makes? Are you making an accurate clock for a sunset/sunrise alarm light?

gchart
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ToyKeeper wrote:
What’s the oscillator for? Why do you need a different and/or more precise signal than the MCU makes? Are you making an accurate clock for a sunset/sunrise alarm light?

Close… it’s a time-based night light for our toddler room (and for travel). Sure, I could just plug in a night light, but what’s the fun in that?

I’m repurposing a Sofirn SC31 for nightlight duties. Sunrise/sunset would be fun, but bedtimes are set by the clock and not the sun. Goal is to have it turn on each day at 8pm, then back off 10 hours later. Rinse and repeat. Other UI features single-click on/off override without affecting the timer, and click-hold for ramping up and down to select a brightness. Low voltage warning using the LEDs under the switch.

Originally, I kept the stock driver and replaced the SC31’s PIC with an attiny412 and used the internal 32 kHz oscillator to help with timekeeping (via the Periodic Interrupt Timer “PIT” peripheral). But it was slipping 13+ minutes each day. I could probably have calibrated the timer to be accurate enough, but this serves as a great excuse to try out new things!

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Cracked the lenses of my Jaxman E3 and the OTR M1 Sad
I must be doing something wrong with these lights Crying Facepalm

[REVIEWS] AMUTORCH: S3 / S3 vs 219c / AM30 / AX1 / VG10 /// SOFIRN: SF14 + SP10A / SP32A / SP10B /// NITEFOX: UT20 / ES10K / K3 /// ODEPRO: KL52 / B108 /// ACEBEAM: H20 / TK16 /// BLITZWOLF: BW-ET1 /// DQG: AA Slim Ti /// HC-LIGHTS: SS AAA /// XTAR: PB2 Charger /// OLIGHT: M2R Warrior /// WUBEN: TO10R / E05 / T70 / E10 /// ON THE ROAD: M1 / i3 / M3 Pro /// ROVYVON: A2 + A5R / E300S / A8 /// KLARUS: XT1C /// LUMINTOP: Tool AA V2.0 + Tool 25 /// LIVARNOLUX: 314791 /// SKILHUNT: M150

Tricks: 1 / 2 / 3 / 4 / 5 / 6 / 7 / 8 /// TIR Lenses: 1 / 2 /// Others: Biscotti 3 + 1*7135 / Triple TIR w/ XP-G2 ///// My Collection ///// My Review's Blog (PT)

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jasontheguitarist
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I disassembled my AAA Tool. This is the newer Osram LED model with the TIR optic. For some reason Lumintop felt they needed to glue the pill into the head on this one. I have the older style AAA Tool and it isn’t glued at all.

Anyway I got the pill out eventually, but somehow in the process I broke the driver and now it’s only single mode. The driver was also glued to the pill I believe, so maybe the glue breaking loose damaged something.

Luckily Mtn sells the drivers for these, so I have some on the way. The stock Osram LED is so cool it’s almost freaking purple. Someone measured it and its like over 7000k.

I plan to put an SST-20 in it when I get the driver. I already know the high CRI SST-20 looks great behind a TIR, much less green than with a reflector even on lower settings.

Scallywag
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jasontheguitarist wrote:
I disassembled my AAA Tool. This is the newer Osram LED model with the TIR optic. For some reason Lumintop felt they needed to glue the pill into the head on this one. I have the older style AAA Tool and it isn't glued at all. Anyway I got the pill out eventually, but somehow in the process I broke the driver and now it's only single mode. The driver was also glued to the pill I believe, so maybe the glue breaking loose damaged something. Luckily Mtn sells the drivers for these, so I have some on the way. The stock Osram LED is so cool it's almost freaking purple. Someone measured it and its like over 7000k. I plan to put an SST-20 in it when I get the driver. I already know the high CRI SST-20 looks great behind a TIR, much less green than with a reflector even on lower settings.

Have you disassembled the tail on a AAA Tool? I haven't gotten the tail apart on mine yet, and am wondering about bypassing the spring.

EDC Rotation: ZL SC62 | Jaxman E2L XP-G2 5A | Purple S2+ XPL-HI U6-3A | D4 w/ Luxeon V | RRT-01 
EagTac D25C Ti | DQG Slim AA Ti | UF-T1 by CRX | Olight S1 | Klarus Mini One Ti
L6 XHP70.2 P2 4000K FET+7135 | Jaxman M8 | MF02 | Jaxman Z1 CULNM1.TG | Blue S2+ w/ ML Special
In-progress: Supfire M6 3xXHP50.2 
Others: Nitecore EC23 | Nebo Twyst | Streamlight ProTac 1AA | TerraLux LightStar 100

jasontheguitarist
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Scallywag wrote:

jasontheguitarist wrote:
I disassembled my AAA Tool. This is the newer Osram LED model with the TIR optic. For some reason Lumintop felt they needed to glue the pill into the head on this one. I have the older style AAA Tool and it isn’t glued at all. Anyway I got the pill out eventually, but somehow in the process I broke the driver and now it’s only single mode. The driver was also glued to the pill I believe, so maybe the glue breaking loose damaged something. Luckily Mtn sells the drivers for these, so I have some on the way. The stock Osram LED is so cool it’s almost freaking purple. Someone measured it and its like over 7000k. I plan to put an SST-20 in it when I get the driver. I already know the high CRI SST-20 looks great behind a TIR, much less green than with a reflector even on lower settings.

Have you disassembled the tail on a AAA Tool? I haven’t gotten the tail apart on mine yet, and am wondering about bypassing the spring.

The retaining ring and switch come out easily, but the switch PCB is inside some kind of plastic shell. I don’t really want to risk breaking it, since it’s probably not easily replaceable.

Scallywag
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jasontheguitarist wrote:
The retaining ring and switch come out easily, but the switch PCB is inside some kind of plastic shell. I don't really want to risk breaking it, since it's probably not easily replaceable.

Thanks. I'll probably start with my AAA Tool (have an IYP07 to do also) and worst case I can gift it with the magnetic tailcap LOL Facepalm

EDC Rotation: ZL SC62 | Jaxman E2L XP-G2 5A | Purple S2+ XPL-HI U6-3A | D4 w/ Luxeon V | RRT-01 
EagTac D25C Ti | DQG Slim AA Ti | UF-T1 by CRX | Olight S1 | Klarus Mini One Ti
L6 XHP70.2 P2 4000K FET+7135 | Jaxman M8 | MF02 | Jaxman Z1 CULNM1.TG | Blue S2+ w/ ML Special
In-progress: Supfire M6 3xXHP50.2 
Others: Nitecore EC23 | Nebo Twyst | Streamlight ProTac 1AA | TerraLux LightStar 100

Th558
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The spring on the driver of my GT mini. I put an Acebeam 3100 in there and yh the spring decided to come off. Now I have a half broken switch and spring.

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I am trying to slow down on collecting lights. Until I found out that one of my neighbours is a professional reviewer (eh, unboxer) for an outdoors magazine. So we spent a few nights talking lights. And we swapped a few lights. But his came without a battery and I had no spare 18650 att.
Usually I have batteries in every light, so I took the battery from my good old bored out SureFire 6PD. I knew that the EagTac drop-in in it has a working range of 3.0-8.4V, and thought: why not put in two 18350 batteries. But those were flat tops, and I was fiddling about trying to make them connect. Till the moment I shorted out the switch! You can find upgrade sets for SF switches all over the web but those are for the momentary switch that’s constant on after rotating (Z41). A 6PD has a rather “unique” built forward clicky switch (Z59).
Here the possibilities are limited to buying an original NOS tailcap assembly, after selling one of my kidneys, or buying some inferior $hxx from Ali. So the coming time I will be MacGyver-ing some sort of solution. Or say goodbye to yet another light from an era I could afford lights with big names on them.

You are a flashaholic if you are forced to come out of the closet, to make room for more flashlights.

Yokiamy
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Wow, that must hurt Wim!
So we can expect some nice reviews then?

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