… and when the current batch of messages is done, the plan is to update the list with all the new requests and send a second batch of messages. But the list closes as soon as the first batch of messages is complete.
It’s on #949 of 1544, and it does one message every 95 seconds. So it looks like there’s about 15.7 hours left to get on the list. Or maybe a bit more because I’ll probably be asleep when the first batch finishes.
I’m a bit on the fence on what to do. I really want to get one in my hands as fast as possible, but I would really prefer the LH351D (top option) or SST-20 over the XP-L. It would be helpful to know if there’s an approximate timeframe for the SST-20 and whether or not the coupon will still work for that option.
Not a huge deal either way—if we don’t know any more when my number comes up I’ll just buy the XP-L. But then I guess I should ask to be added for a 2nd light for the next round?? Decisions, decisions!
Thanks to folks for posting when they’ve ordered, as it gives us a sense of how far away we are from notification. Looks like I’ll be getting my PM somewhere between 1am ~ 2am.
I get your point, but also think neutral white is good for everything. I do like warm tints, especially to make colors more vivid, I just wonder if 7A is TOO warm, hence being on the fence. Teacher’s death ray description made me laugh, but also makes me think I should just get a couple 3D’s instead of one of each. There will also be a warmer SST-20 down the road sometime.
As it was stated earlier, the SST-20 will be priced less because of the emitter. There will probably be a coupon for it too. I have no idea how much of a discount, though. However, if the XP-L HI runs out, you probably won’t have any trouble trading yours for someone else’s SST-20. Just something to consider.
Part of the struggle is that we do perceive light a little differently (I don’t know if it’s actual optical variations in eye composition, psychological, or just preference), so first hand experience is usually the best way to decide. I’m really curious about the combination of build quality, switch operation, and UI implementation. If it’s as good as everyone is expecting, then having two (one neutral, one warm) would solve the problem. I’m also curious about how difficult it will be to change out the emitter. There are different degrees of talent involved, depending upon how its implemented. Given the price of the light, emitter swap done by someone else would far exceed the light cost… which would be painful.
Neal runs NealsGadgets, which is the retailer for this project. His shop is where everyone is buying their FW3A lights.
Neal is also the person to ask about most FW3A-related questions from this point forward, since most of the questions will be about purchases and shipping and problems and returns and such. Customer support is a big part of his job as a retailer.
His contact info is in the notification message which is being sent to each person on the interest list. He’s also on BLF with the username of “Neal”.
After the group buy, I assume Lumintop will sell their own version too, with their bunny logo on the tail button.
That’s interesting. Usually people do the opposite.
Cool white throwers tend to make a bright blue beam in the air, and the beam obscures the target. This is caused by Rayleigh scattering. So a neutral or warm white thrower is usually more practical. But cool white works fine up close. And, as clemence has said, high-CRI cool white actually has a very full and useful color spectrum.
There isn’t a second list for the SST-20 emitter type. The list doesn’t track that data at all.
I think what will happen is: As soon as Neal adds the SST-20 preorder option to his store, you should be able to order it with the code from your first message. But that is not confirmed yet. I don’t know how he will handle that.
I got my PM and ordered three since they’re going to have the LEDs swapped anyway and I don’t want to wait any longer. I did get both CCTs so I can test the output and colour for others. Not very hopeful I will receive them any time soon with this volume of orders though.
As far as mods go, this one is pretty easy. It uses a standard triple MCPCB. So basically just unscrew the bezel, unsolder two wires, swap the board, connect two wires, and screw the bezel back on.