Try unscrewing the head and tail cap, screw in the tail cap nice & tight, insert battery, then screw in the head nice and tight. Or try the reverse of doing the head first, then tail. Of course, just be careful of the tail cap as the switch board and button will fall out (not secured in place at all).
I had a similar flaky operation before I did this. Now my FW3A is working great.
However it’s happening with the head only when connecting + to the spring and - to the body. So that would narrow it down to the driver board. I desoldered the star, the driver board looks good. Hard to debug though.
Yeah, in reading what you posted about a moment ago, it does sound like there’s some kind of electronic defect going on with your driver board. Probably too expensive to mail back, unfortunately.
In order to turn the light on directly, the retaining ring would have to be making contact with the signal ring on the driver, they should be 2 different circuits right?
My FW3A started ramping up and down as soon as power was connected when it arrived too, I tightened the driver ring, pulled the inner tube out and made sure it was clean and reassembled the switch assembly. Problems cleared right up.
If one of the amc7135 chips is dead, it could cause behavior like that. Those chips fail open, meaning they allow current to pass through… so it would be always on. But the other chips would still work, so it could still sort of function.
Not an EE but I presume one could verify that with a multimeter probing between the pins? How does it fail i.e. what pins to check? If I would have to guess, let’s say VDD and OUT?
For reference I checked a couple of 7135’s on my E2L
VDD - GND ~61.6K
OUT - GND ~0.54M
VDD - OUT infinity
Wow, I think you are exactly right. Basically the light works including ramping etc., the problem is just that “off” level is not really off. Hitting the switch once goes to a brighter level (“on”), hitting it again to the lower level (“off”). This is exactly the behavior I would expect from an open 7135. I just didn’t know that they fail open.
Yeah, this is in circuit measuring. They’re all connected so if you want to measure an individual chip you’d need to desolder it.
Again, not an EE, but I guess someone with a properly functioning FW3A driver could take the measurements so we get a rough ballpark of what they should be. I’m still waiting for mine to arrive…
Since if there’s a 7135 that has failed open, the values should be different since they’re all connected. Right?
P.S. I botched the VDD-OUT measurement of the E2L driver yesterday. I don’t know what I did but as I saw your numbers I realised I did something wrong.
So I checked the E2L again (6x7135) since the temperature is different today.
VDD - GND ~61.2K
OUT - GND ~0.52M
VDD - OUT ~0.60M
Took a quick look at my S2+ (8x7135) at the same time.
VDD - GND ~44.4K
OUT - GND ~0.51M
VDD - OUT ~0.57M
These probably don’t matter as the FW3A driver is completely different but oh well.
It is interesting though that the uhm “ratio” of these measurements are so different to yours.
I’m having a difficult time getting to thermal config mode. When I do the first 3 clicks it blinks once for battery check…?.. How soon after should I commence with the 2 clicks to move on to sunset? Is there some confirmation? Then 2 for beacon. Any confirmation?
I feel like I’m just clicking and nothing is happening.
Currently the flashlight will step down after about 12 seconds without being hot at all.
I have a similar problem - light just turns on and stays on when I put the battery in and I can’t adjust it at all. I didn’t mess with the tailcap. Wtf do I do?